Closed - Internal Stiffeners

More I think about it, I should simply lengthen the leg on the internal bracket in order to move the slots a hair more.

That is an easier and better solution than doing anything to the L bracket since the slots will allow you to align the L bracket even easier.

 

The L bracket is tough getting in there, I got it perfectly wedged on that stud for a minute or two. But that’s the other direction you are talking about. And by hole I did mean that little slot. I just automatically figured that shit would rarely line up 4wp or kwikvette. Cleaning back there helped me out quite a bit also.

 

I agree.

I'm now home and unpacked, and have even had a chance to play trucks. Some wiggling and opening up the top hole helped. Lengthening the holes in the 90 bracket may be all that is needed.

Painting the brackets something other than black sure makes the photos turn out better!

I got the drivers side in.

I used the blue strap saver so you can see it.

Need to paint the holes and put some loctite on.

 

Why the heck does it look perfect on yours

Strap saver looks good!

 

Because on the way back home, when we stopped to get fuel, the wife saw a "Little bit of Everything" store. She went over while I fueled and even talked Tacos with a local in a blue '23 (if your on here say hi!).

Wife took a while, so I went over to find her, she and the proprieter came out and told me I needed "these boxes of Ritz crackers and a plasma cutter". Wife had the crackers and dude shows me a Hobart plasma for $1300. I was sore tempted, but there's a lot of other things I need before that.

But there were a fair number of Milwaukee Cordless tools, so now I have this for 80 bucks.

I already have a couple Dremel tools, but M12 means I can use it anywhere.

It isn't quite perfect, the alignment is off just a hair. I think if I could get the top hole rotated just a little more up and in it would likely line up on the money.

 

An install hint:
Working alone, I found that a longish (4") ¼-20 bolt through the slot hole at 5 o'clock let me hang the internal bracket in place so I could thread the m-10's in without needing a third hand.

 

Being retired doesn't mean you have all the free time in the world when you've got a little one

 

Fancy.

 

Install done! Took my sweet time and took tons of pics. It took about 2 1/2 hours being very deliberate. Pics uploading now. Will post in the morning. No issues/problems. Minor mis-alignments , but not a problem.

 

Awesome - looking forward to the pics and commentary!!!

 

And so it begins…
Tools (helpful) in my case for solo install
16” of wire or string (to pull/secure bracket while aligning bolts)
1/8” HSS drill bit (for pilot holes)
13/32” HSS drill bit (for holes for (3/8”) M10 bolts)
HSS countersink
232 or 233 threadlocker
Square (At least 6”)
Flat ruler (At least 14”) (steel worked best for me, std/metric is ok)
Black touchup paint (for exposed metal due to drilling, I used rim touchup paint)
15mm sockets (For bolts I chose)
3/8 drive socket and 6” extension
Torque wrench (if you are OCD)
T-40 security bit (for bolts I chose)
T-27 torx bit for passenger side power/storage panel)
Scratch awl/pick ( for scribing and removing wiring retainers)
Portable light(magnetic was really handy)
Safety glasses (lots of metal filings while drilling under truck)
Various rags (to clean surfaces that will be captured by new parts)
Your choice of cleaning solvents (Why miss an opportunity)

Drivers side 90 minutes (being VERY deliberate)
Passenger side 50 minutes (lazily taking my time, but still acting like I had been there)

Tips:
Sweep the floor often, you will be laying down in metal shavings
Safety glasses…(Ask a welder about protecting your eyes)
Measure three times, drill once
Threadlocker is cheap
Thank the people that put in A LOT of work to bring us this product!!




Drivers side mock-up (thread clean out)

Remove and protect taillight from scratches
Drivers side tail light cavity (first 2 holes will be concealed by bracket on right of cavity)


First two holes 10 3/16” (259mm)and 12 7/16 (316mm) from bottom of bed support (see other directions for where to measure from)(shown in pic)


Bracket secured in tail light cavity, disconnect and remove wiring from large hole/passage



Stiffener secured from above


Three little holes..


Reconnect wiring and reinstall taillight

Repeat for passenger side
Remove electrical/storage cubby, disconnect wiring, clear wiring from passage




Codes on LED bed light


Buttoned up!

 

Yeah… ima need to print that out and google almost every other tool you mentioned. GREAT write-up.

 

Ridiculously awesome write up, seriously.

Only thing I want to mention is that your bottle opener is upside down! Unless it was on purpose.

 

I was about to order the same zinc plated bolts but shipping was almost 30 bucks for 15 bolts…made the total $47 for 15 bolts. May see if I can source anything zinc local and if not I’ll run plain stainless and use black oxide for the bolts seen in the bed.

 

Hold off until your order comes up, in the event that shipping of said hardware is cheaper to me.

Whenever I order from McMaster Carr it's shipped for cheap and always arrives the next day. I must be close to them.

 

Sounds good, thank you! Makes it easier for me if I can pay a little extra and get the hardware in the same box!

 

If I can help anyone save money, I'll do what I can.

It's why I insisted @MagicToolbox send me all those strap savers; I've got a few for interested parties if they got the tie down option or tie down with bottle opener.

 

Honestly i would prefer hardware included. one and done for me but im not going to bitch if I have to find my own

 

I have hardware, but I lessened the cost of the kit once I excluded it since I had opted to buy black oxide; the better choice is to go with zinc plated.

You're in the 3rd batch, but if you'd like I'd be happy to go to my garage and set some bolts aside with your name on it.

I don't mind providing at least one set at no cost.