Recommendations for suspension Lift

In the market to get a 2.5" or possibly 3" lift. Purpose of the lift is to clear 285 tires. Little to no off roading and prefer to keep the ride quality comfortable as possible. Prefer to do things right the first time, budget is $2000.00.


What is the maximum height i can lift without affecting the ride. I keep hearing some 2.5" while others are saying 3". Which is it?

Or if you could direct me in the right direction to learn more about lifts, that would be great. There are just too many threads with overwhelming and conflicting testimonials. Thanks.

 

@HeadStrong Off-Road ask them....they will help with no BS and sell you quality parts

 

It’s a right of passage - go headlong down the rabbit hole (it helped me put off doing anything to the suspension for 8 years until stock was worn out.

Here’s what I’ll recommend - you need to figure out how much extra weight you have/ plan to add soon (armor, roof rack, sliders, etc). That will help you figure out the correct spring - generally, the higher weight rating, the harder the ride will be on pavement. Same principle applies to the rear leafs (more packs/ layers, can handle more weight, but going to ride a little harder).

next, shocks - they’re complicated- need to look at a bunch of shuff that I’ll butcher (I’m not going to look that up - that’s for you to do). Basically, if they’re valved (like Kings), it’ll be a softer ride than say 6112s/ 5100s.

third, tires - probably more understated for ride quality (E rating can feel pretty hard - especially on terrible pavement at slower speeds).

For me, I have KO2s (love them/ have always gotten them - but they feel like work boots vs running shoes)

I went with 6112 in the front; Dakar medium leafs in the back (they’re controversial on this board - I have the newer model and zero issues with noise - I also dealt with the oem leafs for 8 years so make of that what you will. Then 5100 rear.

If you’re not doing serious off roaring, don’t need to worry about the extension of the rear 5100.

I got around 2.5 front/ 2 rear once it settled. Happy with it overall - again, stiffer on Oahu’s shit roads at slow speeds, but feel great on rocky trails/ highway speeds.

Next time I do the suspension, I’ll likely steer towards Kings/ whatever has a valved system.

hopefully someone far more knowledgeable than me also jumps in to correct what I said - good luck (buy once, cry once - but also do your research).

 

If no offroading, and no extra flex or travel are required. I believe a spacer lift would keep the geometry of drive shaft the same. Keep the stock feel, I'm running 3" toytec 285/75/17 mpg is horrible and cutting and trimmed necessary. Maybe a 265/75 would fit with minimal cutting with the spacer, maybe body lift. Don't waste money on a suspension that your not gonna offroad. 285 is tire width, ur looking for height which is the 70, 75 for example.

 

I have been very pleased with this setup
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rancho-rs9000xl-spc-uca-and-285s.787751/

There is NO need to spend any more $ than this unless you live off a mountain trail or something, BUT don't be a total cheap ass and use spacers to get 3"...

 

I’ll assume this doesn’t include tires and wheels

 

265/75 will fit with no trimming at all...

 

If the purpose of the lift is to clear 285's don't get a lift. Do the work to clearance the wheel wells and enjoy the luxury of the factory suspension comfort. A lot cheaper, but that's just my .02 cents

 

No, i already got the wheels and tires. $2000 more or less strictly for the lift.

 

Clearance and a better look lol. I got 285/70/17s right now and wanting to lift now.

 

Everyone has different opinions. Check out the regional threads and see if someone will give you a ride with different kits.

For about 2k you can go a few different routes.
unless you want to eat through CV boots, stick with about a 2.5” lift.

Cheapest would be 5100s all the way around and an add a leaf or blocks for the back. If you have 2k and want better, you could go 6110/5160 and maybe an UCA. Reach out to @memario1214 for help there.

Another good option ( so I’ve read) is the Dobinsons MRA/MRR but for 2K you can only get the fronts. Might be able to pair them with 5100 rears and a block/aal and be good. @Crikeymike is the one to ask about the Dobinsons.

I have the Ironman Foam Cell Pros, and my only complaint is they are on the stuff side, but most kits sound like they are. It’s still a good ride. You can get the complete kit with leaf packs and UCAs for about 2k.

Here is a pretty good thread testing the higher end kits, but they are closer to 3K to get what you need. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/blind-shock-tests-season-2-starts-today.799472/

 

Tinkerers Adventure on YouTube has a pretty good series of informational videos you can go through. Currently at work and don't really have time to type out and get into the nitty gritty.


https://youtu.be/_68Hc8GtLko?si=yWuxcIUHYQoGPp3-
https://youtu.be/l1tTelhdEiM?si=qb1GaPI8sD4eKe5f
https://youtu.be/huMztKaHsUE?si=S7wP6Bxs4akMWtoB
https://youtu.be/InQnp42pfts?si=xIpup2HNgktii3AB

 

Those videos are really good! Thanks sharing them.

 

285's dont fit the wheel wells stock or lifted period. (unless we talking drop bracket / spindle drop lift up front). There simply isnt enough area in the wheel well to clear a 285 without trimming or flattening.

 

Yes, this is reasonable and easy.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-lift-faq-guide-read-this.11282/