Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

I can't see whats above. That's a really steep grade so runoff is going to have a profound effect on it. There is a saying in government (yes I work there), "there's never enough money to do it right, but there's always money to fix it".

 

That looks identical to the one I'm running on mine. Didn't have to cut anything off.
Your tractor is almost identical specs to mine & KR's.... Just be patient & when it gets here you will know pretty quick. As long as it doesn't bottom out it doesn't need cut. Make sure you don't have a bind point & set your top link at "level".

What it is is the rear arms on the 3 point is longer on the bigger tractor which should be enough to get ya by it.

When your grinding with this.... Be sure to take those pivot pins out & pin the legs up. This will let you see just enough pressure against the wheel for the unit to do a slight tilt forward. If it tilts a lot?

You are taking too big of a bite.

Get that camera ordered if ya want to be ahead of the game.

$50 Wireless Backup Camera Systems WM1 high Definition 1080P Night Vision 4.3"es Monitor Wireless Rear View Camera for Cars sedans s-u-vs Pickups Vans

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Sys...9958201&mcid=cdd3f1f4a69e3fb1a68fa48013281120

 

Anyone have a good tutorial on rebuilding a hydraulic cylinder?

 

water bars go a long way at preserving material.

 

Pat's Quick hitch is an option.

https://www.patsquickhitches.com/
I have them on a couple of smaller tractors so the PTO shaft fits for the chipper shredder, along with the larger tractor.

Happy with the way they work across a variety of attachments. Still fiddly however.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=how...ndroid-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

 

Thanks for the help

 

Most are the same. I like the Abom79 ones he has done. Some of the older ones he shows measuring for seals and stuff too. But I watch him anyways so bit biased towards him. He has done some tractor cylinders that I can remember for his step dad's tractor so those are probably the ones I'd go for.

 

They aren't that hard to rebuild, just messy. Some of the inner seals/packings can be hard to get in. I've found soaking them in hot water softens them up a little to make install easier.

 

Awesome thanks! So many crappy YouTube videos out there and didn’t want to waste my time clicking on random ones. I knew you guys would have some good info and tips.

 

I've been trying to sell a ridgid 300 machine for less than 2k, brand new they're about 6k. Nobody wants to spend money these days and its understandable

 

They are generally fairly simple luckily. Unscrew the....retaining part thingy and just pull out the shaft. Replace seals and slide shaft back in and tighten the retaining thingy back up. But always nice to watch someone else do it too!

And yeah it can be messy but trying to hold it horizonal with the end over a five gallon bucket should catch most of the fluid.


Here is one he did on a Kubota cylinder....just know it involved repairs but the assembly/disassembly part should be what you need. He also has ones he did for a Mahindra tractor too https://youtu.be/xf4greJbPqo?si=B8_2MlgYPx4y1nWO

 

Ran the tractor today. No more overheating. Mostly ran between 155-165 degrees

 

Cleared a path to the Brute Force lift w/ the x27


Tomorrow we'll use the Brute Force to split the large rounds

 

Good to read! Should be good till fuel filter change now! Enjoy!

 

That’s great!

 

I would never start another restore after the GT is done but, this thing would twist my arm to the max

 

I started out this morning "just looking" into the condition of my L2172 Six foot snow blade. Thinking of the winter ahead. I bought the unit "sight unseen" , and although it never saw use , it has sat out and rusted.
I got the pivot frame off and have done an electrolysis de-rust on that piece. I has cleaned up quite well. The "trip frame pivot was rusted solid, but with the help of a floor jack and a five foot pinch bar, a bit of PB blaster and Marvel Mystery oil, That joint is now moving. I still need to figure a way to get the two pivot pins out. Might take the "smoke wrench". I want those pins out and cleaned up/ Then to be coated with Never-Seeze on reassembly/

I went over all the blade back side surfaces with the side grinder and a flap wheel, Lots of blistered paint.

Any suggestions as to the best "rusty metal primer" to put over the rust spots? It's a long way down to bare metal in many places. Rust=oleum" has always worked, I've never known how well.

 

I’m going to go with this stuff when I do my camper frame. They make a platinum version as well. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-plus-quart.html

 

But you have not used it yet?

I first tried POR- ?? back in the 90s. I'm not sure it is any better than Ziebart. Ecapsulation, But "Rust never Sleeps".