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Drum brake issues after brake job

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by chickenwarrior, Sep 2, 2024.

  1. Sep 2, 2024 at 1:21 PM
    #1
    chickenwarrior

    chickenwarrior [OP] Member

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    My brakes started squeaking and grinding this summer so took the truck in for a brake job. The pedal was still a bit squishy but the brakes were nice and even and felt a lot safer.

    A few weeks later, a rattling sound returned...but this time at highway speeds, and not exclusively while braking (intermittent). Since one of my rear shocks was leaking, I thought that might be the issue and replaced both shocks. It seemed better for a couple days, but quickly returned.

    I pulled off the rear drums and found the c-washers/clips on one of the parking brake and auto adjusters were missing so the springs had come off the assembly. I was pressed for time but it seemed like an obvious issue so I bought new clips and springs and put it back together without scrutinizing the shoes too much. Again, it was better for a couple days, then came back. It seems worse while braking at speed; brake feel is very uneven, accompanied by grinding sound, but there's no noticeable pull.

    I took the drums off again half expecting to find that the clips had come off again. They had not, but I noticed that side had accumulated a lot more brake dust and the shoes are rutted, unevenly, compared to the other side that are nice and smooth.

    Questions:
    - Safe to assume that this wear was caused by the earlier adjuster issue, or are there other problems I should look for?
    - Since there's still lots of shoe left, is it a bad idea to sand it down w/ fine paper so it's relatively even again?
    - I'm tempted to swap drums from one side to the other in case it's an issue with the drum itself as a way to troubleshoot it. Bad idea?


    Thanks for any sage advice!
     
  2. Sep 2, 2024 at 1:23 PM
    #2
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Are you even adjusting the drums after the inspections? You need to adjust them.
     
  3. Sep 2, 2024 at 1:44 PM
    #3
    chickenwarrior

    chickenwarrior [OP] Member

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    Yes, adjusted by tightening until I had a bit of a drag. I might tighten more this time (until lock) and then back them off slightly. But I'm pretty sure they were adjusted correctly.
     
  4. Sep 2, 2024 at 1:54 PM
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    fxntime

    fxntime Well-Known Member

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    Are the star adjusters on the correct side of the truck to actually ''adjust?" Did they do one side at a time or take both sides apart at the same time? There is a LH and a RH side star adjuster, they won't work correctly if swapped around.

    Been there, done that myself on a FJ40.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2024
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  5. Sep 2, 2024 at 2:10 PM
    #5
    chickenwarrior

    chickenwarrior [OP] Member

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    Hmm, good question. I didn’t take the whole drum apart but it’s possible when I took it in they got it backwards? When I look at it now, I notice the mechanism to lock the adjuster from backing off reached fully over the star on the left side and barely reaches it on the right side. The left side adjuster also has thread showing beside the star, on the right nada…

    IMG_3104.jpg
    IMG_3106.jpg
     
  6. Sep 2, 2024 at 4:51 PM
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    Moto521

    Moto521 Well-Known Member

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    Somethings wrong. Look at the threads on the adjusters; One side has way more showing, should be roughly equal on both sides.
     
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  7. Sep 2, 2024 at 7:23 PM
    #7
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    NO but partly correct the top picture shows the adjuster tip isn't even fully seated.

    The adjusters could stand a good disassembly, cleaning and lube
     
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  8. Sep 3, 2024 at 5:52 AM
    #8
    chickenwarrior

    chickenwarrior [OP] Member

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    Thanks folks. So your adjusters don't look the same, side to side? I was surprised to see that much open thread.

    I'll take them off, clean 'em and see which whey they want to turn. But I have a feeling something else is up with the assembly. Hard to tell from the pictures but on the drivers' side, the lock/stay for the wheel hooks under the fork that holds the adjuster stem in place (hence reaches right over the star); the passenger side falls short because there's no way to get it hooked under the fork, which also means there's not a lot to keep it from slipping off.
     
  9. Sep 3, 2024 at 7:11 AM
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    Look close at the tip of the adjuster in the 1st pic! It isn't seated and at the same time it isnt fully forward and doing part of its job of pinning the shoe and adjuster/ratcheting hardware together. Its clearly pushing the adjuster away instead of ratcheting/rubbing alonge side of the "star" on the adjuster.

    The brake components are in rusty dirty condition and IMO should be replaced. Its all avalible (and cheap) at local parts house. Get a new parts kit, brake clean and white lube. Disassemble one side at a time so adjusters etc aren't mixed (*and you can reference the other side assembly). Fully disassemble the adjusters, use brake clean and lightly lube the threads, thread them in and out, (better yet replace with new), then start with it in the fully closed position.

    Before assembling the shoes, clean the backing plate, especially the bosses the shoes sit/rub on. White lube those spot(s).

    Once assembled adjust the adjusters out a little at a time. Slip the drum on and turn both ways. Once the adjustment is close enough youll feel it just start to rub, stop.

    1 Tip: if all is hooked up properly you can use the small cable in the brake hardware misc. Give a push/tug on the adjuster cable (in the brake hardware group). It should freely ratchet the adjuster.

    2 understand the way this system operates. Self adjusters are deesigned to self adjust when you back up AND apply the brakes. Most people dont realize this. If you never back up and apply the brakes in reverse, the ebrake will ratchet the adjuster when the ebrake is applied. A good hard stabbing of the brakes in reverse brake or ebrake tug is a good habit every now and then to free the adjuster up.

    3 test drive, reverse and apply brake repeatedly. When the brakes are 100% in full seated adjustment the pedal should apply the brakes an inch or two down.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2024
  10. Sep 3, 2024 at 7:18 AM
    #10
    SR-71A

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    Yeah that side doesn't look seated to me, as stated above
    upload_2024-9-3_10-17-56.png

    upload_2024-9-3_10-18-43.png
     
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  11. Sep 3, 2024 at 7:24 AM
    #11
    chickenwarrior

    chickenwarrior [OP] Member

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    Yeah it's definitely not seated. I was looking for any tips on why that might be. I've taken it off and put it back on with the adjuster and can't see any way for it to sit behind the adjuster forks like it should. That's why I was wondering if maybe the adjuster itself was on the wrong side, as fxntime suggested might be an issue. I guess I'll take the whole thing apart and try again...but I feel like one of the parts is wrong. They simply don't match side to side, so referencing the left isn't helping. But in order to try swapping things from side to side, obviously I'd need to take both apart at the same time (don't love that idea).
     
  12. Sep 3, 2024 at 7:46 AM
    #12
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    The adjusting arm is UNDER (or more like should be) the star adjust adjustment piece. See the other side.

    Crusty parts get worn and bent. Get a new kit. Happy happy
     
  13. Sep 3, 2024 at 7:51 AM
    #13
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    Note
    Youll know if the adjuster is correct if all is installed correctly (like other side) and ratcheting spreads the shoes,

    Advise
    DON'T disassemble the good side. Digest its perfection. Rinse and repeat.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2024
  14. Sep 3, 2024 at 8:08 AM
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    BTW my brain fog cleared momentarily and I recall the adjusting arms are stamped L or R. The rust and crust may have devoured that years ago though. Life would be better with a new kit. Just sayin'
     

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