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Bleeding Clutch

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by dealerschmealer, Sep 3, 2024.

  1. Sep 3, 2024 at 12:42 PM
    #1
    dealerschmealer

    dealerschmealer [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2022
    Member:
    #397369
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    Vehicle:
    2006 Regular Cab 2.7L 4x4 Manual
    image.jpg image.jpg

    UPDATE: solution below

    I recently replaced both the master and slave cylinder on my ‘06 base model Tacoma. We managed to bleed it to the point that there is almost full pressure (as in what it felt like before). We bled it at the slave cylinder following the same procedure you would for a traditional brake bleed (though I’ve read that’s not the correct way to do it). However, it’s too weak to return my pedal all the way up to home position. It stops right where the torsion spring on the pedal assembly would normally flip it back up and home. Any suggestions on how to fully bleed it? One key is that my truck has only one fluid reservoir for both the brakes and the clutch. There is a divider inside it that splits it to about 2/3 for the brakes and 1/3 for the clutch. My brakes and clutch are connected to the extent that the first time we tried bleeding the clutch we popped a brake line. Granted it was a pretty rusty line, but still think that’s an important detail. There are other details and things I’ve tried, but I’ll wait for comments and questions before I write a mile long post with a bunch of stuff that may be irrelevant. Thank you in advance!

    Just to be clear, the master cylinder in this is inside the cab underneath the clutch pedal. I did not replace whatever it is that the fluid reservoir is sitting on top of in the picture.

    SOLUTION:

    You have to adjust the head on the new master cylinder to the same height as the original master cylinder. I did that and assumed a different height was not an option. I drove around barefoot for 2-3 weeks with the soft clutch described above, having to pick the pedal up with my toes after each shift. I was hoping the air would work itself out. It never did. Driving like that got annoying, so I adjusted the height of the head significantly higher than the original just to see what would happen. The adjustment made the pedal return all the way to home position on its own. It doesn’t feel EXACTLY like it did before replacement, but it’s close enough for me. If you go this route, understand that you may be compensating for an incorrectly bled system. When in the home position your clutch pedal shouldn’t touch the head AT ALL, and you should regularly check to make sure it stays this way. Trapped air may eventually work itself out of the system and push the piston higher. I adjusted mine a half turn at a time, tightening the lock nut between test drives, until I found the minimum tallest height. It took me about 4 times to get it perfect, and just the half turn did make a significant difference.
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2024

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