2020 JBL Amp wiring and booster

Any preference between the pac offering and the RF offering? Reasoning?

Any wiring source for a switched power from the jbl amp harness?

 

Just an idea. Buy the 12 and 10 pin from auto harness house. Pull every output from the JBL amp and run it into this.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109DSP4086/JBL-DSP4086.html

Then later replace every speaker.
I want the o keep the factory head unit.

 

Thank you to everyone in this thread for providing a lot of amazing information. Wire colors, what the connections do, all of that. I managed to make a no cuts harness and install an amp thanks to your contributions. It may not be award winning bass but the sound is way more full and I’m happy with the results.

 

@NathanAslum how did you make this? Does this consolidate the audio signals to be used as clean input for an amp? Or is it for using factory amp output harness to the speakers? I'm trying to figure out how to use the factory jbl harnesses after swapping to new head unit and amplifier. I'm now learning there may not be a clean complete signal to use as amp inputs, and maybe amp outputs are split up too much for a 4ch amp. Thanks for any elaboration/breakdown!

 

So…. You replaced the head unit? … Then you should replace any wiring. Not quite understanding why you would connect a new head unit to the JBL wiring harness…unless you are just wanting to tie in to the wiring EXITING the factory JBL amp to keep from having to run new wire to each speaker/driver.

 

All I did was use the speaker level out from the JBL amplifier. It is not the best way to do this. Just the cheapest. I’d get a 4ohm SVC sub if I was doing it again.
You are just amplifying the bad signal JBL sends to the sub.

results are “OK”

Pioneer Weatherproof Compact...

$89 Pioneer Weatherproof Compact Monoblock Marine Amplifier - 300W

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09252BY5R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pac APH-TY04 Speaker Connection...

$37 Pac APH-TY04 Speaker Connection Harness

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0885D6FLT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

Phase 2? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500S2S69C/Alpine-S2-S69C.html Is this a solution for dash and door? Not changing JBL amp. Just installing these. 4ohm I know but any other reason not to install these? Sensitivity may be an issue.

 

The Rockford Fosgate DSR1 wires in to the system at the JBL amp, gives you a better signal and DSP for around $250-300. The PAC device wires in behind the head unit for about the same price. Both give you a better signal. Currently I am using the DSR1 and the sound quality is unrecognizable (significantly better) compared to factory JBL.

 

The DSR1 looks like my best option. The only issue for me is the extra $350 it piles on top of everything. Then it spins out of control when a proper amp gets added. At this point I’m just looking for a good dash speaker and I really could be happy. I’m not looking for loud I’m just trying to sound as good as my 2005 Honda for as little as possible.

Thanks for the suggestion though. A solution that keeps everything tidy behind the back seat is what I’m going for.

 

If you are willing to trim a little there are a few 3.5” drivers that are great cost/value. I just swapped out some that I was very pleased with… probably the best bang/buck you could get.

I upgraded to a much better speaker,but much more expensive.

 

Great thread. Thanks!

 

Would anyone be able to identify the 24pin connector part number? I would like to make my own wiring harness which would splice in audio coming from a mobile radio into the cab speakers. Looks like the stereo inputs from the head unit go the through the 24pin. Thanks!

 

new here.. I just gotta say WOW what a pain in the @ss,, back,, neck,, and head it is to tap into the jbl system to run a loc,, dsp,, amp,, and sub..

this is how I have went about this task thus far..

I tapped into the sub itself for my line level outputs. I pulled the sub and tied into the wires running on each side of the voice coils and then ran them out of holes I created and then revealed the holes.. (I am very curious if bridging the factory sub to drop it down to 2 ohms is feasible or if the system and amp would just not allow for it.. thoughts??)

running the line from battery I tied in under the hood then fed the line down and zipped it to the frame and came in a grommet on the back drivers side of the cab and up.. it was difficult getting it fed up.. the rubber drain hose (assuming its a drain for the sunroof) fed down into that area so I made another hole into the plastic the rubber hose fed into and fish tapped the line up..

there is a slot at the bottom of the corner trim that allowed the line through easy enough.. and that's where I'm currently at..

so far im on the fence as to whether or not its going to be worth doing all of this.. I love my music loud and pounding but damn this has been a tedious task and im not even finished.. anyone have any tips or tricks to make this a lil less irritating??

it may seem redundant to run both a loc and dsp but im only trying to do this a total of one time and from what I've learned the active loc sends a better signal for the dsp to work with..

end product will be a lc1i loc ran into a taramps dsp to a taramps amp to a sundown sa 12.. drivers side rear seat will be on vacation for awhile I guess as shallow mounts just don't have the same eyeball bouncing bass..