3RZ EGR Delete

If you poke around a little while.....you might be able to find these from salvage taco parts sold on ebay....
Sometimes it takes a little while......but usually whatever I need eventually pops up....

Alot of taco people here have parts trucks.....get lucky......if someone has one....doubt its all that coveted....


2RZ or 3rz on that part should be same...there's alot of 3rz's running in 4 runners.....

 

I agree with previous poster about finding part. Post a "WTB - EGR parts" in the 1st gen thread. I bet you'll have some sellers. I suspect that most folks leave the EGR on but the folks that pull it off hang onto it for a while(I would). Once they see no issues, they will likely part with it. Good luck.

 

Thanks for that info guys, I'll keep that in mind. I thought you needed to be here for a certain amount of time, of certain amount of posts before you can post in the buy sell trade forums?

 

I believe that's true. I'll post one for you and send the thread link so when/if someone responds you'll get the notification.

 

Here you go. Subscribe or respond to this thread link(below) so you will get notifications when someone responds.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wtb-3rz-egr-components.754776/

 

Thank you!

Edit: looks like I don't have permissions to view that thread haha.

 

I'm in the same boat, I'm still too new, so it won't let me view, buy, or sell.

 

Getting codes also on my egr delete LCE and directions indicate where resistor goes ,but do I have it in the right one..thanks gas mileage is crap..

 

I would think real hard about doing an egr delete....

maybe block off the vac line controlling it before you rip it out kicking and screaming....

the bonus from the egr should only be realized at highway speeds......

it should drive just fine all other times.


Watch your overheating, thats what egr was designed for, keep the engine cool when cruising highway speeds via inert gases.....
really should only save a few pennies in gas...

Maybe if you have other problems, some other issues, or worst.....the ecm is constantly hunting....
maybe that temp sensor is trying to warn the ecm...



You can drive around, and with a $300 or better scanner. You can watch the egr valve opening and shutting during acceleration and cruise......




Man believe me.....with a new engine.....
.......if there was a way to not put black carbon exhaust crap back into my new heads....
I would of found the way.....




Other than a custom $1500 ecm and carry around a tank of nitrogen.......

 

When you make changes on these old girls.....do one change one step at a time..
and test each..........dont ever do a round robin.....like a tranny flush....

 

No way to tell without crawling around your engine bay. Most DIYs online are pretty specific. I followed this one and haven’t had nary an issue with DTC popping up. EVAP, yes.

 

Mine's been deleted for a few weeks because the vacuum lines are junk, It gets better mileage, extra 20 miles per 15 gallons..the fuel trim's dropped a fuzz too. I have new vacuum lines but not sure if I will even hook it back up. CEL don't bother me, it remains closed loop, who cares. Plus, no dirty exhaust gasses getting dumped on my intake valves stems and seats. The truck rarely sees the highway....

 

Mine was deleted the whole time I had the supercharger, worked fine. Got some of my best MPG, it's an emissions device first and foremost anything else it may or may not do is secondary.... 3RZ didn't come with an EGR in every other market anyway, it isn't important in the slightest for it to be present.

 

You should be able to take em off, as long as there's no other out laying problems....

but in an old engine.......everything is risky



Extended Hwy speeds and extensive idling is only place where the cooling egr effect would work....

ME THINKS...


Its doesnt save any gas.....at least enough to justify it...

 

Same on my egr delete also on getting codes still and gas mileage is shit...

 

I had just finished installing my new turbo and noticed that the engine was idling kinda rough and then the CEL came on with the same code everyone else here got. Anyway to get around doing the resistor hack? Or we have to put all these EGR stuff back? I have a custom stainless exhaust and already had deleted the tube.

 

All good advice. If you can fix it, run it, it does work. If you have forced induction that changes things, but that's a different can of worms and all bets are off. Best bet is to fix it IMO.

 

Where is your mass air flow......how do you meter that air.


and how do you plan to keep it cool......these are already prone to head gasket failures........very thin gaps between water/cylinder on gasket

and the stock heads love to crack right between the exhaust/intake valves.



unless you drive excessive hwy miles....I wouldnt put the egr back on....shouldnt make a difference otherwise......

 

The TOYOTA part number for the pigtail connector for the EGR sensor side is: 90980-10898

$16 1x Male Connector 2-way for Ignition Coil 90980-10898

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RHS3RSQ This is the Amazon link to the connector with pigtails.
SO TO BE CLEAR : The one on the LEFT is the SENSOR side and the one on the RIGHT is the harness side. So, if you guys want to make your own plug or test connector or whatever you want to name it , you can with a CALIFORNIA /NEW YORK emmissions 10K resistor, this CLEARED my 'EGR" code !