Stripped oil drain plug

I've seen oversize thread drain plugs used before. Google them. Might be a simple solution. Don't know if there is enough meat to run a 9/16-18 tap in there and just get the accommodating drain plug????

 

This is really good advice. If my dealer doesn't have one in stock I'll definitely go this route.

It uses Toyotas FIPG rtv material

It's a lower oil pan, but it's ~$150 for a new one. Very steep imo considering it's a small piece of stamped steel.

None of the local pick and pulls have anything past ~2008. It sucks. Even lkq doesn't have a used oil pan lol. Ebay has a few but you're really taking your chances there.

Yeah this is the info I was looking for, thanks. It didn't look like it to me either, but I was just looking up at it from the bottom.

I've seen those and even helped a friend put one in his mk6 Jetta. To me though that's really a bodge fix, despite like you said nobody really having issues with them. It just doesn't seem like the right thing to do.

 

If there was enough meat I'd do the helicoil instead. I was gonna try cleaning up the threads, using some Teflon tape, and seeing what happens but I don't have a

$13 m12x1.25 mm self-locking nylon insert hex lock nuts, pack of 6

m12x1.25 tap, only a 1.5

 

$11 Aceteel Metric M12 X 1.25 HSS Ti-Coated Straight Flute Thread Tap, M12 X 1.25mm Titanium Coated Thread Machine Tap Right Hand

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09VZMYPL3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

Check with your local quick lube. They do this frequently and they should have the tools and parts to make quick work of it.

 

You have a really new truck ,you really should just buy a new oil pan for $150 and learn from your experience. If you used a torque wrench I would get the calibration tested. It's a pretty important part as it holds oil in your engine.

 

Torque wrenches....
They did more harm than good in my life before I finally dropped a couple grand on a few decent ones.
Even now, I often wonder why I bother with them in most cases.

Unless you have absolutely no idea what a wrench should feel like in you hand, I'm firmly of the opinion, a torque wrench, especially "value" brand, will more often than not cause more harm that it prevents.

 

This really is the way to go. And in the grand scheme of things, $150 is a pretty cheap automotive fuck up lesson.

 

I figured it was RTV. I hate dealing with that stuff, but still worth just going ahead and replacing the pan. Just seems like the simplest most reliable solution.

Back to how this happened, were you using or reusing a gasket on the drain plug? I wonder if reusing a gasket could cause the issue. Or even not using one.

aside from that, maybe a poor calibration in the torque wrench as previously stated, or even a manufacturing defect in the pan or plug. Or maybe if anyone else has done an oil change on your truck (or even at factory install) it was overtorqued hard once and weakened the threads.

 

Nope, used a new OE crush washer with my existing oe drain plug. After reading the replies here I really think I need my torque wrench recalibrated.

Been working on cars for years but always used the torque wrench for peace of mind. Bit me in the ass this time lol

 

Could’ve happened to anyone. It’s not like most people are out there actually getting their torque wrenches calibrated every year, even though they probably should be if they’re being used.

 

Helicoils are not great for removable fasteners. You'd want something intended for removing the drain plug often.

 

Do not use teflon tape here. The stuff can clog oil galleys if it gets picked up.

 

This is a no brainer. Get the $150 OEM lower drain pan shipped to your local dealer. Do not DIY a solution here unless you've done it before. The risks are way too high. If a aftermarket plug kit/repair fails and gives way, you could have less than a few minutes before you are toast.

 

30 ft lbs is insane IMO. Who uses a torque wrench on an oil pan drain plug? Gotta be a bunch of pans out there used, I'd do that first.

 

Torque wrenches have their place no doubt but, for any fluid drain bolt, I use my best judgement, and not a torque wrench. You can tell when it is too loose, or too tight and it's going to strip. With oil or anything that adds lubrication on the treads of any bolt, the torque numbers will be off. That is probably where the mistake was made. Synthetic oil on threads, made it way easier to get to tight, and the torque wrench wanted you to keep going to get to it's set parameter. Sorry this happened to you, lesson learned. Good luck on the fix, keep us posted when you get it done. It will help others down the road, that may do the same. Ski

 

Me.

If a little torque is good, a lot of torque is better. The torque wrench keeps me from being dumb. Dealing with plenty of small fasteners into aluminum threads on my bikes, I am happy to have not stripped any using a torque wrench.


Agreed though, 30ft-lb seems wrong. I think the number is under 20 for the drain pan.

I do not like that number. 20 is plenty.

 

another economical option

http://www.mbs-tools.com/pd129002/81668-permatex-inc-permatex-stripped-thread-repair-kit-81668

 

Never have and never will torque an oil pan drain bolt to 30.
Toyota, however, seems confident in their numbers. If memory serves me correctly, that's right up their with their recommendation on the 4Runner and Tundra.
Just not gonna do it.

Polaris says I should torque the conical lugs on my RZR's alloy wheels to 120.
Just because an engineer says so, doesn't make it gospel. (unless, of course, you ask and engineer)

 

I've seen plenty of errors that make it through. I have to feel this is one of them.

There are sniff tests for sure.