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Strut assembly, middle of the project, question

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Rclarkson, Sep 19, 2024.

  1. Sep 19, 2024 at 4:50 PM
    #1
    Rclarkson

    Rclarkson [OP] Active Member

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    Freakin' rusty trucks man. I'm replacing my front shocks and I can't get them out. All the nuts are off. Do we really need to take the sway bar links to get it out??
    My bolt and nut are just spinning! And I can't take them off.
    Truck is currently jacked.. FML. Thanks for any help or suggestions.
     
  2. Sep 19, 2024 at 4:58 PM
    #2
    hyrule_trd

    hyrule_trd It’s a Secret to Everybody

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    If you meant the sway bar link ball joint end to the spindle, there should be a place to stick an Allen key in there while you turn the nut. Or at least I think so.

    You just took the 3 nuts off the top plate right?

    should need to loosen the LCA bolts and then remove the 2 bolts in the bottom holding the lca to the spindle. Have something to support the wheel hub. You’ll be able to drop the lca down then the coil over should come out.

    Hope this helps.
     
  3. Sep 20, 2024 at 5:49 AM
    #3
    Revelations

    Revelations Well-Known Member

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    Yes. You need to remove the endlinks from the spindles or there won't be enough play in the LC to drop the shock out. See the above post. Use an allen key to hold the endlink shank in place while you turn the nut.
     
    O'DubhGhaill likes this.
  4. Sep 20, 2024 at 6:56 AM
    #4
    TacoTuesday603

    TacoTuesday603 I welded it helded

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    If those end links are original the Allen probably wont work. Back when I had a swaybar I just put a pair of visegrips over the boot.

    Doesnt matter now that its at the scrapyard
     
  5. Sep 20, 2024 at 7:02 AM
    #5
    Peter603Taco

    Peter603Taco Well-Known Member

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    I had to use vice grips on the sway bar endlinks to keep the stud from spinning as the allen head easily strips. That pretty much destroys the endlinks so after I finished the job I chose to order and go back in to replace with MOOG greasable end links which have a flat for a 14mm open end wrench on the stud rather than the allen key. Way easier now to remove them and retorque, and they're even easier than the u joints to grease. They're also much cheaper than OEM from Rockauto or Amazon, no issues a little over a year later.
     
  6. Sep 20, 2024 at 7:03 AM
    #6
    Extra Hard Taco

    Extra Hard Taco Well-Known Member

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  7. Sep 20, 2024 at 7:04 AM
    #7
    Extra Hard Taco

    Extra Hard Taco Well-Known Member

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  8. Sep 20, 2024 at 7:06 AM
    #8
    Revelations

    Revelations Well-Known Member

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    Depends on the condition. I just replaced mine at 155k and the allen key was fine. Not a whole lot of rust even though the truck has lived its life in the midwest and now on the east coast.
     
  9. Sep 20, 2024 at 7:10 AM
    #9
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Yeah.
    A bit of PB Blaster and a sharp pick to clean out the allen key hole may help.

    I've got a set of the Moogs I bought for my 2012 and never installed. Luckily it's the same part for the 3rd gen.
     
  10. Sep 20, 2024 at 5:40 PM
    #10
    O'DubhGhaill

    O'DubhGhaill Well-Known Member

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    I got through the fronts. Had to take the truck in for the rears. Thought it would be easy peasy, one nut. They cut the top off with a torch!
     
  11. Sep 20, 2024 at 8:55 PM
    #11
    kidthatsirish

    kidthatsirish Well-Known Member

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    Not surprising ...when I replaced my rear shocks I had to use and angle grinder to cut off the rears.
     
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