CLOSED: GROUP BUY: 3RD GEN CENTER CONSOLE MOLLE 25% OFF, ROUND #1

Is mounting hardware being included or are we sourcing that on our own? And what's the pricing?

 

So, I don't own a 3rd Gen at all.

I was fortunate enough that @musicisevil had that plastic panel shipped to me as I used it to mock up that molle panel.

Molle is standardized, but unfortunately many accessories and panels aren't centered around that exact standard - some have as much as a 1" gap between the slots, others as little as 1/8".

I know it's not what you asked, but thought I'd share that information.

With that said, I would like to see this get installed first before I commit to making more.

I did make one for another member as well @MagicToolbox so the both of them would help to determine if the panel I made will suffice or not.

If I get the thumbs up from both of them, I'll make more and you'll be on that list.

I made myself one to keep as a "master" in the event that I do make more for people in the future.





As for hardware, well that goes back to the not owning a Tacoma.

I wouldn't know exactly what spacing would be "just right" but maybe 4 delrin spacers, 4 nuts and 4 bolts.

If enough people want one, I may buy the parts in bulk and offer hardware with the panels.

 

Yes, please do.

 

I think this will install a lot faster than the hidden stiffys did!

Ive got no experience with molle panels, but I have a first aid kit waiting to be installed, so when it shows up I'll get on it. My FAK does not have the Velcro back, so I need to be able to get my fingers in there to put the molle stiks in place, so I may need a little more space than typical.

I'll post as I gain more data.

 

It might have been mine. I'm about to go out but my first attempts with my laser cut plywood version have a pair of basically tongue depressers with a piece of utility cord tied on. Pull the utility cord up and the FAK falls off. Easy deploy, but a little more complicated to put it back in place.

 

It definitely was yours… You and kwiq always seem to reply to my dumb posts before i can delete or edit them!

This is absolutely brilliant by the way! I’ve never seen anything like it. I was emulating this with rigid plastic card scrap that I have when I destroyed my paint (pics later today) figuring out how to attach a sheath with a leather belt loop. Would a thinner stick make things easier? It’s probably that the fabric doesn’t have enough give though huh? Would running them horizontally though the straps make it easier to install the bag back on the panel since they are a little bit more slack than the stiched horizontals?

 

My concern for the "tear-away" velcro setup; is it possible to pull off the rear plastic panel by accident?

The velcro on the pouch I have isn't that strong, so I don't expect it to be much of an issue but in the event that someone buys a different kit.

 

So after taking pictures yesterday, I got impatient and mounted the panel with hardware I had sitting around. I messed up the paint because it wasn’t fully dry, and tried to use an automotive touch up pen on it. The paint bubbled up like the stuff was paint thinner so I need to go through that whole song and dance again, with the addition of clear coat this time.


^This is the clearence with 1/2” of nylon spacers.

^I just eyeballed the mounting holes, lining up the panel and marking the holes hastily. Fit is fine, a bit crooked, but to my benefit because I managed to clear the little fin that usually needs to be trimmed.


^My planned use for this panel was to replace this sketchy mount I rigged up when I gave up on sourcing the original piece.
The belt clip is compatible with molle webbing, but the slot is too narrow for use here. I would have happily widened this to fit the kwikfab panel, but my wife saw me playing with “her knife” and decided she wants it back in her ride.
One less project.



^The spacing works just fine with this triple strap bag I have. However with 1/2” spacers, there still isn’t much room to slide the snaps under the bottom of rows 2 & 3. Could have pushed it through with a tiny bit of effort, it was just snug. No issues with clearing the bottom of row 4.



^New truck knife sheath is leather and I was toying with @MagicToolbox quick release stix when I messed up the paint. Here is the clearence with 5 or 6/16” spacers. Since I’m not mounting a bag I may reduce the spacer height from 1/2” to whatever allows the panel to not touch in the middle.

When folding up the rear seat, the seat bottoms touch the rear of the center console.
I have the 40% (drivers side) seat bottom removed in mine and seldom fold the rear flat, but that clearance with this panel installed is definitely something to keep in mind. I’ll add pics with the seats folded after it’s re-painted.

 

I used a tear-away pouch for this reason. I can remove the pouch and stick it to the back of the seat when I need to seat folded down. The seat clears the mount and the tear-way pad as well.

 

I saw your set up earlier in this thread. Looks really nice! How thick do you think the spacers are on the original part?

Any issues with this when you remove the pouch?

 

What do you mean?

The velcro tear away function for the kit I purchased works well.

The velcro isn't really strong though.

But my concern was if the velcro's strength was enough to pull out the Tacoma interior panel or not.

 

My bad, meant to ask 9mmmike if his plastic panel ripped off with his

 

I think I used 10mm spacers. I have not had any trouble with the tear-off. I do tend to be careful to avoid pulling the panel off. I tear 90 degrees to the panel.

 

I can't take credit for the idea, I saw it years ago and it stick in my head. Might have been the malice strips from ITS Tatical.

Install is difficult because the 3mm ply I was using had no flexibility to help pull the strapping to the other side of the molle panel. I didn't get far enough with my prototype to hard mount it, but when I was lacing the quick strips I could tell it was going to be a little challenging once it was only ½“ away from the console.

Quick deploy is more important than quick stowing. I don't plan to use it often so it may not be an issue. I'll see once it gets here and I can play with it.

 

I’m still interested but unfortunately moved overseas and left my truck with my parents til I get back

 

@Kwikvette

I got a chance to play trucks today for a little bit before it started raining. I started by getting it mounted rather than test fitting the Gerber molle mount knife I have (because I'm a moron, shut up - that's why.) So after careful layout, and a little moving around to avoid that one plastic web, I got it in place.
The Hazzard Fraught transfer punch set I bought for the hidden stiffys mount let me make center punch marks.

I have a riv-nut tool and some M-6 riv-nut so I drilled holes for those. I should have ordered the larger type of riv-nut that is better for plastic, they expand more, I'm worried these will pull through. A quick run to the hardware store for M-6 bolts and things were looking good.

Then I started to mount my FAK. I think the pitch on the holes is wrong (top to bottom) for the two things I have to mount.

I did some Googleing, and found this "reference":

Which is what I used for my laser cut prototype. (Although I made my cutouts a little larger to ease strap insertion.)

There is no way to get this Gerber knife mounted to this panel.

Putting the tape on the knife it looks like they used a pitch of 1.75“.

I think there is a range of different dimensions used in molle so it may be that some things will work better than others.

 

Yep, I think I said it here or via PM to someone but that many accessories do not follow the standard molle configuration.

I don't believe the IFAK I have (the one found on Amazon) is even made to work.

You want to send me your CAD file and I'll make another? I've got plenty of 16 gauge as I just bought a 4' x 8' last week.

 

Yeah, lemme find it and do a little clean up.

 

Speaking from the perspective of military gear...

The MOLLE (technically PALS) attachment system is a set of webbing that is 1" tall, separated by 1" vertically, and with 1.5" between the seams holding the webbing to the pack/gear/whatever.

The trick with these solid panels is that they kind of approach the attachment system from the opposite direction - a piece of material with holes versus webbing added to a piece of kit. In this case, the solid sections in between whatever holes are cut is the "webbing" and thus is the critical dimension. To deal with the solid/less flexible nature of these panels compared to webbing the holes can be a little oversized to facilitate weaving attachment straps through, but the spacing of the material between the holes should be 2" on center. (I have also seen some products on the market that seem to be using a much shorter hole size - maybe something like 0.75" - with 0.25" or so between holes. This keeps the 1" spacing that would still generally be MOLLE compatible, but you logically would not be able to pull through the webbing from the pouch you're attaching - like that red med kit - in order to get the "weaved" attachment we use on pouches. I suppose this configuration makes sense where people are using it for a gridded attachment system for larger/heavier items that might use holders that bolt on and it would provide more flexibility in item placement.)