Dual Switch wiring help ch4x4

So did this approach worked for you, with "off" illumination when car is running and "on" illumination when switch is activated? If so, I'll probably try it. The only thing I'm worried about is the fact that it is able to get ground even with ground wire not connected. That means it's grounding out somewhere, maybe backwards through the other non-activated circuit? Do you blow any fuses or have issues when both switches are activated (and both sets of lights are turned on)?

Thanks!

 

So I’ve been having a hell of a time with my small dual switches. Paid good money and got custom ones.

They were in and working pretty well for about a year. I have several other Yotas and have wired many switches. I have proper gauge wire, fuses, and of course everything is triggering relays. I’m confident in my wiring, as this is my most recent build and my older build are holding up well.

to their credit, I reached out to CH4X4 and they did send me two replacements. But, they only worked for a couple minutes. They still trigger all my relays fine. But all illumination has stopped.

to verify I put the old switches on and they are working as they were before. One is sticking on when powering its source (top switch on one) and has no illumination. The other three illuminate and trigger their devices, with the exception of the other top switch’s “on” illumination color being intermittent.

I reached out immediately, but now I’m not getting response. I think my over detailed writing style is maybe off putting. lol

anyhow, I’ve purchased a generic small dual switch on eBay. My plan is to pop the button caps off my ch4x4 switches and hope they work on these generic switches. Looks to be same style. Only exception is the constant and illumination wires are flipped in the harness. But,easy fix, I’ll just swap my fuse tap locations.

anyhow, thought I’d add here rather than start a new thread.

 

Good luck. I’ve noticed small variations in tolerances and molds which can affect switch function. If the switch pcb is out of position slightly it might not “click” on/off or might either stick or have too much play.

 

I got the generic switches. The button caps have a set of alignment fins. The ch4x4 ones are too thick. I started to sand them and then thought maybe I could fit the generic internals in the ch4x4 housing.
Well the ch4x4 housing had 6 fins/tabs preventing this, so I cut them out and it worked!!!

I had to switch my illumination and power fuse taps to accommodate the generic switch wiring discrepancy. But that was easy enough.
They fired on and are actually brighter than the ch4x4 leds.

I attached photos for comparison. Ch4x4 housing on right. I tried to point to the tabs on bottom near plug, and the two fins on each side by the shoulder where the housing gets bigger.
A little scraping with an exacto blade and we were golden.

 

Just wanted to follow up.

Pros: Lights are brighter. Electronics work and are a cheaper alternative to CH4x4 ($11.99 in September 2024), works with CH4x4 buttons (with slight housing modification)

Cons: Takes a little trimming, and will require flipping the power and illumination feeds if replacing an already installed CH4x4 switch. No illumination at all with dash lights off. The CH4x4 electronics at least glowed green when activated. These will still activate the circuit, but no illumination with dash lights off.

Here’s a link

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1552485280...mh28mo7TIS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY