I want a truck that Toyota never made

I just caught up, at once, since 2021... wow

 

Ok, I guess you didn’t get / understand what I meant / was trying to say?

Plus I’m guessing you have TV at home, a cell phone, plus a stereo / radio in your Taco, 90% of everything you buy from Amazon is from China… Sadly it’s a fact of life… American Greed outsourcing work just like John Deer closing down their factory here to Move To Mexico where the USA has free trade.
I guarantee you all these are made in China‼️ 80% or more, of most everything we buy is sadly made in China…
But that doesn’t compare to what drug companies are racking in, Ozempic is far less than $5 per dose some say less than a $1 to manufacture but it’s sold @ $960 retail and it’s hard to find in stock. Not a bad profit margin don’t you think?

Anyway I don’t care what you guys want from tires & wheels in the looks department. Just like some like white vehicles and some like black vehicles, does it matter Hell No‼️
You few want low & wide compared to what the OP and I like.
I like as much (wide & tall) that will fit under / tuck in the fenders.
Just like the 4x4 guys want big and tall to go on their 4x4… If you wanted to run 40’s on your X-runner be my guess. Just because I think it’s stupid doesn’t matter it’s your choice… Unless you want to move to N. Korea and live under a dictatorship where you are told that to do. Hopefully that never happens here!! Guys please do your research and vote!! Greed, the want for power and corruption is ruining the world…

My apologies to the OP for taking the tread off topic. OP please say something and I will gladly delete!

 

On a side note:
My xrunner 245 45 18 and my Sienna 225 60 17 are both exactly 26.7". They interchange nicely and don't effect speedo, mpg readout etc...
I've yet to weigh each. Each tire combo having obvious different qualities. Each vehicle asked to acheive different standards.

I'm interested in which rim/tire combo adds more weight when holding to the 26.7" overall stock diameter size? And how each effects ride, noise and mpg's.

I'm going to be purchasing new rubber for the xrunner. The 275 40 18 is 26.7" within .01%. Most likely too fat for a 18x8 rim but I really love a fat tire!. I'm wondering if and/or how much more that combo would weigh over a 245 45 equivalent if it did fit. And if it would have any vehicle fitment issues.

I love you guys' tech talk on tires... far different than the 99 other daily threads... "wut size kin i put on"

 

Great thread from the start. Lots of variety fo sure.

 

On my old X-Runner I ran a 275 tire out back on the stock wheels. Cant remember if it was a 45 or 40 sidewall tho but im leaning toward 45. Shouldnt have any fitment issue but what drop are you on if any?

 

Staying stock. Bought it as a run around and occasional enclosed trailer hauler.

Any input or pictures of the 275's

 

Yeah you should be fine. Id go with a 45 sidewall over a 40 since you are at stock height. I just tried to find a decent pic but I got rid of that truck in 2009 so all the pictures are pretty low quality if you try to zoom in on the tires. But the 275s didnt look too wide for the stock 8" wide wheels

 

Another note to the OP or just an FYI. I know you want or wanted to run a 275/40 tire on a 19 x 9.5 w/45 et wheel and we see you are having issues with rubbing inside & out. Now this is only my worthless opinion!
But would you be open to running 255/45 tire on a 19 x 8.5 w/43 et wheel? See photo below on my truck, yes I’m running extended wheel studs. Plus I think you could sell the Enkei’s for more than these wheels would cost. But you have to find them used. They are not the best looking but they are made by Enkei for a Infiniti G37. They are made the same roll forged way. The fronts are a 19 x 8.5 w/ 43 et. The rears are a 19 x 9 w /45 et. Just incase you wanted to run the rears all the way around. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

This is great information. Thank you. The Enkei PF07 19 x 9.5 with +45 offset with a 275/40/19 (rolling diameter if 27.70 and thread width of 9.30) was not rubbing on the rear inner part or the top… just a bit on the rear outer fender right where the fender flare and the fender meet … only when I am carrying something in the bed. This is the same place where my factory X-runner rim 18x8 with + 30offset and a 245/50/18 tire (rolling diameter if 27.70 and thread width of 7.60) rub when carrying a load in the bed. If you were looking from the ground straight up at the rear wheel well, there is a 10mm bolt that connects the inner part of the metal bedside/ fender to the composite bed… just in front of this bolt about a few inches is where I am having this rubbing problem when there is something in the bed.

 

Ok then sounds like you could still run the 19 x 9 w/ 45et. As for the rear fender pull out the stock 10mm headed bolts and install these in the link.

$9 M6-1.0 x 10mm Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screws, Stainless Steel 18-8 (304), Bright Finish, Full Thread, Allen Socket Drive, 25 PCS

https://www.amazon.com/M6-1-0-Flanged-Button-Socket-Stainless

Find a “Fender Roller” or get a fresh 2x4 and cover one side of the 2x4 with duck tape or a towel. Hold the 2x4 firmly against the outside of the fender and with a small hammer work the inner fender lip up way and around so when the tire rubs it doesn’t cut into the tire. The extra 6mm / 1/4” should give you just enough room. You will need to remove the plastic flair before hand and know there are two bed side / fender braces that keep the center of the bed side in place. Someday I’m going to make new braces out of some flat stock and a nut sert so I can roll that one section up and out of the way.

 

Thank you very much for those flanged button stainless bolts idea. I think that is a very good idea. I am ordering some right now. I have been so busy and behind on posting but I fender rolled the rear bed side this past weekend. I bought a fender roller off of Amazon for less than $40 delivered and with taxes and it was delivered the next day. I think that is a great price for this kinda tool. In the second to last picture, please ignore that fact that I forgot to put on the lug nut washers for the fender roller. You can see them on the fender roller handle. I noticed on my truck that I was rubbing more on the passenger side and less on the driver side. This is opposite of what I would have guessed. I have been test driving the truck the past few days with a load in the back. I have been using the Enkei PF07 19x9.5 with a +45 offset test rim with a 275/40/19 tire on one side and also my new rims… Work Emotion ZR10 19x8.5 with a +38 offset and a 255/45/19 tire on the other side. So far, no issues on rubbing in the rear of the truck. I heard one of the happiest sounds yesterday (LOL)… I hit the bump stop in the notched rear without rubbing.

 

I also cut a bit of material off the fiberglass factory fender flares to allow for more clearance. I really don’t mind the tire rubbing the fender flare or the wheel well liner that much because this is not damaging my tire like the metal from the bedside is, that I rolled in the previous section. Now to put on the ground effects and fender flares back on the truck and see if I get the same results.

 

Looks good!
Just a little FYI that’s a SMOKEN PRICE for the roller‼️ I had to go through my dad’s work “a body shop” to by mine years ago for $250.
Also I found it’s good to start at about a 45 degree angle and go very slow and get steeper as you go. Work a small section at one time.

 

This is ‘exactly’ what I would like to do when I pick up a Tacoma next spring when my SSDI retirement starts.
Do you have a build page of how exactly you did this? i just joined the site for this specific reason. ^^

 

Sent you some pics

 

Thank you to everyone that posted and created threads about the “fog light on anytime mod” for the 2.5 Gen Tacomas 2012-2015. There are a few different threads out here on TW that are very helpful. I have learned a lot from them and this is just my spin on this mod. I think this is a simple mod and can be reversed pretty easily. By doing this mod, you will be able to have your fog lights on whenever the truck is turned on/ with ignition and still use your factory fog light switch to turn them off when you want to, also. The fog lights will be on with NO headlights, or with your DRLs, or with your headlights, or with your high beams. The fog light factory relay is located in the small relay plastic box behind the main fuse/relay box which is right behind the factory battery location on the driver’s side of the truck. All I am doing is changing the “on” input wire on the factory relay from being supplied from the headlight signal to an ignition signal. The picture below is all supplies I used to do this. Some kind of pick or pry tool, wire cutters, wire stripers, 3m tape, a zip tie, small piece of wire, solder, soldering iron, and a voltage meter. If you don't choose to solder the wire connections, it maybe easier to use a "T" crimp connection instead.

 

Here are pictures of the large main fuse/relay box and the small relay box behind it. I have removed the cover of the small relay box which contains the fog light relay. It is pictured here in light blue and is the bottom one closest to the fender. I have circled this relay in the bottom picture.

 

I used my pick tool to separate the small black relay box from the larger main fuse/relay box. Then I turn the small relay box upside down and cut off the single zip tie that holds the bundle of wires to the small plastic relay box. Then I use my pick tool to remove the bottom of the relay box to expose the wires.

 

In the first picture, I have circled the only 2 wires that we are going to be dealing with for this mod. The small red wire with the black strip in the top right is our current input wire that energizes the relay for the fog lights. Whenever power flows down this wire the fog lights will be switched on. Currently by factory, power only comes down this wire when the headlights are on. We are cutting this red wire with the black stripe, as you can see in the second picture. In the third picture, you can see that I taped up the red wire that is away from the relay box because it will still carry current but it is not being used and we don't want this touching anything later on. The side of the red wire closest to the relay box, I added some extra wire so that I can tap this wire to the green wire that was circled earlier.

 

The first picture is another look at the green wire that was circled earlier... this is just slightly to the right of the big blue wire in this picture. Picture 2, you can see that I have lifted this green wire up with my straight pick. I then use my stripers to slightly cut back the green wire's plastic surround without cutting the metal wire inside. My 4th pictures only showing you with my multi-meter that this green wire is an ignition wire and only gets power when the truck's ignition is engaged. Remember, we are not cutting this wire, we are tapping on to it. The fifth pictures shows my red wire that I extended earlier... being connected to the green wire that I exposed the internal wire on. If you are not soldering your wires... then this is where you would use the "T" tap crimp connections to connect these wires. Note... I am only tapping on to the green wire for an ignition source for the fog light relay. This allows the fog lights to be energized anytime the truck's ignition is on and the factory fog light switch is pressed in. In this picture you can also see where I taped up the other half of the red wire with a black strip previously. Picture 6, I have soldered the wires together. The last picture is of these wires being taped up.