boom boom bass on Taco

Hey guys, I want to change OEM speakers to something with bass and quality sound.

Anyone has done it? and any suggestions?

Anything under 400$

 

PRV speaker are a very good option they are about $300 for 4 6.5" depending the model. But if you want bass and good quality I suggest increasing the budget for a full audio set up imo. I changed only the speakers and wasn't that big of a difference, but when I upgraded to 8" speakers, new tweeters, 10" woofer, 2 amps it drastically changed the quality. volume is WAAAAAY higher and more controlled and quality is awesome.

 

underseat 10" powered Sub under your seat, spliced into the rear speakers which are totally useless!

 

I put in the infinity component system and it blows me away in quality of sound.

$209 Infinity REF-9630CX Reference 6x9" Two-Way Component System with Crossovers

https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-9630CX-Component-Speaker/dp/B07B8SDVKK
In these tacomas make sure you properly seal the 6x9 speaker to the door frame for the best bass sound. The factory’s have foam already, I found using mounting tape the best for sealing them down.

$9 Double Sided Heavy Duty Tape, Made of 3M Very High Bond 5952 Mounting Tape, High Temperature Resistant Adhesive for Indoor/Outdoor, Car Trim, Moto, LED Strips, Metal, Office Decor (1/2 in* 15.6FT)

https://www.amazon.com/Double-Mount...ywords=3m+mounting+tape&qid=1728221281&sr=8-4
Also for speaker mounting brackets, taco tunes has these really good heavy duty composite ones. I wouldn’t use the plastic ones if you’re looking to really use the bass in the doors.
https://*********.com/shop/toyota-tacoma-audio-products/double-cab-audio-products/1-tacoma-double-cab-speakers-install-products/toyota-tacoma-6x9-heavy-duty-speaker-adapter-front-door-installation-kit/

Adding an amp might help, but the crystal clear quality you get from the factory speakers is lacking. They’re made of paper and made really thin. Buy something that can handle the power from the head unit better like the component system from infinity. They put them stock in the high end cars for a reason.

 

I spliced into the front channel. The stock head unit sends a very weak signal to the rear.

Things that make big differences for cheap:
Front components
Mini amp
Sound mat installed in doors

Things that make moderate differences:
Head Unit
Subwoofer

Things for chasing perfection:
Sound mat installed everywhere else
Rear speakers


Get on crutchfield, look for components that have a reasonable frequency range (ideally one that can dig below 55Hz) and good sensitivity (better than 92dB usually means amp not required), start there.

I'd personally recommend doing the front door speakers, a key amp, and sound-lining the doors at the same time. That can be done for sub 500 bucks easily enough. (I can't stress even a basic few squares' application of butyl mat enough - the more you reinforce the foundation, the cleaner the speakers can sing.)



Add another 300 on top of that if you want an underseat that will buzz your bollocks.

 

Nothing wrong with that, but the Subwoofer actually only needs a low level signal, leaving my fronts to run my tweeters & front door speakers.

 

I suspect it all comes out in the wash after the gain knobs are dialed in.

My setup has everything tapped into the front channel, then the door and sub amps go through their respective built-in line converters before sending on to speakers.

 

id suggest trying the plg n play beat sonic mini amp first. $300. Changing the speakers doesnt do much when the stock head unit doesnt put out much power to begin with.

 

Plug and play kicker speaker kit here in your budget...

https://trailgridpro.com/products/kicker-plug-play-6-speaker-bundle-upgrade-16-23-tacoma

Swap the head unit or add a kicker key amp for better results.

Here's a really good powered sub for under $300...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3008P/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-8P.html

 

The little RF 8" powered sub has exceeded my expectations. For most people it's all you'll need.

 

I heard one after I bought the JL Stealthbox. It's got plenty of thump, more than you'd think for an 8". Had I known I probably would have bought it instead and saved the difference.

 

I am getting truck back this weekend, and I will look around for audio from this comments

 

Ty

 

$140 JBL GTO939 GTO Series 6x9" 300W 3 Way Black Car Coaxial Audio Speakers Stereo

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO939-C...28779459&sprefix=JBL+car+,aps,106&sr=8-3&th=1


I am thinking these maybe

 

I’ve had the

$360 Kicker 46HS10 Hideaway Compact Powered Subwoofer, 10"

Kicker 46HS10 sitting in my cart forever. Just haven’t been able to pull the trigger yet lol.

 

Damn I even found video on some dude literally installing these on taco lol! We all are alike

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THbciA5itrg

 

I upgraded tweeters and front door speakers. I now want to add kicker key amp and Rockford forsgate

$280 p300 8p punch 8" 300-watt amplified subwoofer in ported enclosure - slim design for tight spaces - black

p300 8p powered sub. Is this kicker key along with a powered amp a common setup? Does this make installing difficult? I could not find any YouTube with setting these both up. Should I trust geeksquad for this job?

 

Im not sure what stock system you have but i can tell you the base level speakers are thee absolute chintsiest speakers i have ever seen in my life. I think total weight of front+rear+dash was less than a pound combined. I was astonished by how chintzy they were. I guess in retrospect it probably is a modern miracle of engineering they sound as "good" as they did with build quality that was used. I do know they are only "stock" speakers....but i have pulled other stock speakers in the past as well from different vehicles so had an idea of what to expect.

Just something to think about if you try to budget together an upgrade. It gets expensive to do it right but i couldnt see how even a budget pair of speakers mixed in with whatever amp/sub/head or no head unit you come up with would not sound better.

EDIT: FYI....when i did it i just disconnected the rears since no one is back there and did a 2.1 active using components with mids in front door & tweeters in dash. Saved on the rears.

 

Im not familiar with those key amps other than that i know people on TW use them. But the truck itself is not hard to tear down and work on yourself to route wires. I just used a typical 5 channel amp behind the driver side rear seat, sub on passenger side rear. Route wires thru the channels on the floor under doors to head unit and front doors\dash. Didnt bother with rears.

The toughest part for me was getting replacement wires in the doors thru the boots as it is a pain. The rest was pretty simple just takes a little time. The factory speaker wires are miniscule but im sure you could use them if not pushing too much power. I believe you can tap into the factory wiring behind head unit if you wanted to re-use it and just get adapters for the speakers iirc.

There are some good build threads on here that should give you ideas of difficulty and locations/options to use.

EDIT: FYI....IIRC i believe there is some kind of roll off happening in the Entune factory happening as well. Something to think about if you are trying to add subs. I believe there are devices to try to correct this but honestly your better off pulling the head unit. See how it adds up .

 

Its incredibly easy if you have ever spliced a wire. You split the front channels after HU output. One set goes to the key amp, the other goes to the powered sub/output converter.

Run the key's auto-tune and set gains with the sub turned off. Then turn on the HPF on the key, set the sub gains to balance the amp.