Will a bad parking brake cable on the passenger side affect the drum adjustment?

Title says it all. Will a bad cable mess up the adjustment of the rear drums? I'm chasing down a very spongy pedal and I figure the quickest procedure to check off the possibilities list is to adjust the drums, but I already know that the parking brake cable is bad. Every time I hit the brake pedal; I hear a clinking sound which is what makes me think the rear drums need adjusting or the hardware is clinking. I had the fronts checked and they were solid.

 

Is the rear drum adjustment pretty straightforward? Take off the drums and adjust the flywheel until the wheel doesn’t move and then back it off until the wheel moves?

 

Jack up the rear and put it on Jack stands. Adjust the star wheel through the window on the backing plate so that there is a little bit of drag felt when turning the tire.

 

Ok that’s the plan. Did you have a spongy pedal before the adjustment?

 

You can have a soft pedal when the rear brakes need adjustment. Adjusting them should firm up the pedal a bit.

 

BTW, the E-brake doesn’t adjust the rears. You have to back up at a decent speed and hit the brakes hard. Even then the self adjusters only work marginally.

 

Ok thanks. I’m going to adjust them first and then get the abs blead if the pedal doesn’t get firm enough after the rear brake adjustment.

I was going to buy jack and jack stands from harbor freight. Do you have an opinion on their jack stands?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/seeking-advice-on-rear-drums-r-r-or-adjustment.835794/#post-29937784

Look at post 2.

What helps, with the drum off, stick your adjuster spoon through the hole in the backing plate. Since the drum is out of the way, you’ll be able to see what’s going on in there. You do this to tighten. Then stick the adjuster spoon and whatever release tool you’re going to use. You do this to loosen, moving this much loosens this many clicks. Then put the drum on and follow the procedure.

 

I have a set of 6 ton stands in my garage.

 

Do it right.

 

Is it easy to release the adjuster after the drum locks?

 

I've never had an issue, but I am a patient old man...

I also use a proper brake spoon instead of a shitty screwdriver.

 

Not on a Tacoma. They self adjust by using the E-brake.
You don't have to back up.

Also, When adjusting the shoes. Adjust them until they start to drag.
Then go inside the truck and press the brake pedal. This will center the pads and drum.
Most guys don't do this, and they never get a good adjustment.

The only reason Toyota says to turn them until they lock, is to center the pads/drum.
And you will never create enough pressure on the shoes with the dinky star wheel adjuster to center the drum good.

I don't lock the drum. I do just as I said above. Then adjust them to a drag.

What you don't want to do, is use after market brake hardware.
Aftermarket shoes are fine. ... Hardware.......No.

 

Can I get in the truck to center the pads while It’s up on Jack’s?

 

Yes. I do it all the time.
As long as the jack stands are stable, hop on in.

 

09 so if you try to take the drums off without backing off the adjuster the drums probably have a ridge that will pull the shoes and break off the wheel cylinder internal pins (little ends on them).
Rear drums have threaded holes to use bolts to pull drums off.
If you do pull drums look at the shoe that the parking brake lever attached to and there is a pivot that is usually rusted/frozen so free that and lube it then parking brakes will work.
Note your wheel cylinders may be full of crap by now and the rear brake lines (if original) are probably somewhat clogged also.
How is the pass cable "bad"? With drums off you can see where the cable attaches to the shoe and if its not broke it should work.
Then you may have dropped a shoe hold on spring or other part in there that's jamming something up.

 

OP, it sounds like you might not be that mechanically inclined? Waasheem has a very good point, its helpful to 'practice' with the drum off. You cant see much through the little window once the drum is back on, so a lot of it is feel. Tightening is easy enough, but to loosen you have to release the locking lever while also backing the star wheel off.

Also take some pics of all the hardware and assembly as soon as the drum comes off, before you do anything.

 

Pictures definitely help. Mistakes I’ve made, pictures ended up blurry and didn’t help. I didn’t get close enough to see which spring goes on first. So I take my pictures, then see if I can see what I need to be able to see.

Before taking anything apart, after taking the drum off check the wheel cylinders. Just barely pull the rubber seal off. If brake fluid comes out, they should be replaced. If the seal pops off, it’s not terribly difficult to put back on. If I was planning to put new shoes in, I’d wait until I have the new wheel cylinders to prevent the potential for brake fluid contaminated new shoes.

Cleaning, first I stand back, hold my breath, spray brake cleaner to get everything wet. Then get closer and wash it down with brake cleaner.

 

Yup, Ive been in that boat. Take a pic only to find out it was blurry..

Compressed shop air also works great at removing dust buildup, without all the fumes