Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Looking at my last alignment sheet, caster was 5.1/5.4 initially and was adjusted back to 5.0/5.0 after the alignment. Camber was 0.3/0.3 both before and after the alignment. Since the Camburgs are non-adjustable, the SPCs are sold, and narrower spacers would likely have me rubbing against my rear shocks (when stuffed), I think I'll see if I can bump the caster up by half a degree on both sides and still maintain camber and see where that gets me.

 

I am running basically your previous setup, 35x10.50R17 with SPCs on option E but with the 4Runner 7 spoke wheels (+15 offset) and no spacers and have no rubbing on the UCA, but it is close at full droop. Based on the before and after numbers you lost about 1 degree of caster and the rubbing seems like the alignment tech moved the rear LCA eccentric bolts inward thus moving the LBJ backward. My rear LCA eccentric bolt is maxed all the way outward thus moving the LBJ as far forward as possible. With LCA max forward and SPC on option E i have 2.2° of Caster. If you were having issues with the SPC ball joints a good alternative to maintain similar adjustability would be the Accutune Sealed Heim UCA though they are a pain to adjust once installed.

 

Recently spent a week in Moab doing most of the trails with @WEW and @WormSquirts . The JdFab Kit did great overall, a very noticeable difference and improvement compared to my old AllPro Kit.
The Rear SUA Kit worked phenomenally well in the rocks!
This was the first time in the dirt with the Front Kit installed.. The Front is still not correct with not having the right C/O's, so was missing out on full articulation potential.



Had big problems with loosing All of the driver side 934 CV bolts while being strapped behind a Full Size Dodge after breaking another rear 3rd member. Temporarily took 3 out from the Passenger side and used them on the Drivers side.


Bought all new 934 bolts and nuts and a bolt fixture and started the process to safety wire like a pro


Just don't mind the Safety Wire Pliers from HarboFrieght..they do get the job Done!


Big Props to Joe and his badass full size Dodge who gave me a tug so I can get off the trail


Getting back to the Airbnb on @WEW trailer


Turning wrenches early morning to get the Spare 3rd installed so we can run more trails and break more shit.

 

surprised to hear the 934 nut/bolts fell apart.
I at least put torque paint on them when i installed mine but didn't think to check torque on them as I had them assembled by JD.
the nuts JD uses appeared to be pretty significant prevailing torque nuts so the torque values would be different than a regular nut/bolt....
I'll have to keep an eye on my paint lines in the future

 

Was a great trip! Was fun to meet you man! Got a couple pics of your truck, just with my phone.

 

Good times!

I think the 934 bolts falling apart is my fault. In the shop checking clearances to the frame side on the drivers side there was 1/4", im guessing under load the front diff moves quite a bit more than that and was smacking into the bolts. Can't wait for you to try the +4" kit again when it's doing more than 9.75" of travel, hopefully the correct coilovers and misalignments are in stock soon.

Last time i did moab it was in a tacoma with 145" wheelbase and 27" of travel in the rear... going to a 81" wheelbase and 7" of travel for this trip was legit very scary in a totally different way than having too much travel made it scary. Spent most of the day with 3 tires on the ground max, reminds me of my stock IFS days, just bouncier.





It's okay though, everyone always says 32x9 is the new 40s.

Had a great time, looking forward to getting the truck back in the shop to finish it right so we can do some shock tuning to make the coilovers and bypasses play nicely... And a few rubicon trips next year if our suzuki samurai arctic circle roadtrip doesn't eat up our normal rubicon time.

 

Can't believe none of us of got pictures of the Sammy when the wheel fell off

Edit: I don't think the clearances had any part with the bolts coming loose, there's no new marks on the body that would indicate any clearance issues. Just bad prep on my part

 

I threw blue threadlocker on mine when I reassembled. Torqued to 70ftlbs.

 

I'll be using Red Lock-Tite and hopefully everything will be assembled on Sunday. I think I'll have to go to King Bolts or maybe Mcfadden-Dale tomorrow to source out the inner 934 boot clamps that I desire. Only because I want a worm gear narrow band style. Torque Spec charts for the M12 Bolts Ive referenced are anywhere between 85-92 ftlbs wet

 

What area do you stay in? King bolt is my local shop too

 

East-ish San Gabriel Valley

 

What psi are you guys running on your front bumps? I recently added a spacer to shorten them up some and when I depressurized them during removal, they seemed to have 50psi or less.

 

This is what a weeks worth of rock crawling at Moab looks like on the rear SUA.. Had zero issues with clearances or anything else that is said to hender rocks with a SUA setup..






And the front lower arms.. passenger side had the most rock rash.. skid plates had nothing out of the ordinary..



And right now, right in the middle of swapping out 3rd's. The one im taking out now has a loud howling noise between 45 and 52ish mph which indicates a bad pinion bearing. And I know exactly what ledge that I was trying to get up while at Moab that shock loaded the bearing or bearing race. I built that one myself over two years ago..


The InlandEmpireDriveline polyurethane carrier bearing is also getting swapped over today with another one...

 

So i ordered fully built CVs as a spare set because I broke and outer and needed to rebuild the other and didn’t have time to rebuild them before a trip. So put the new ones in and after 2 days of riding now my new ones at popping. Is there an easier way to get the outers apart I have been beating on the them for an hour and still no luck. I have looked on YouTube and can’t really find anything. USE A BRASS PUNCH mine is now 1” shorter then what I started with! Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

Was the passenger leaf set banged up from Moab? It looks so tweaked.

 

Some questions regarding the 934 CVs.
I started having some handling issues in the past week and a crawl under the truck revealed I need, outer tie rods, both front wheel bearings and I have a two cv boots requiring attention.
I knew about the cv boots but i was procrastinating.

I’m thinking of upgrading to the 934s hoping they will be stronger and more user friendly to service over stock as I live in the sticks of WA. I’m running stock width TC arms if that matters.

Also, no one around me will replace boots. They only do whole axles swaps. So I have to send out my axles or buy tools and wrestle them myself, which I’d rather not currently do as time is tight. It’s hockey season and my son plays travel.

Thanks in advance

 

RCVs will suit you better, but if your stock length. Just get a new set of axles and a reboot kit. Swap axles and then reboot the other set to have spares, and be able to just swap out as needed to reboot.
Toyota 43430-04070-84
I believe is the reman part number.

 

Steering rack bushing replacement.

I see people are using an air chisel to get the metal sleeve out. The inner sleeve must be removed first? I'm having a f#$k ton of a fight getting it out.

Any tips from anyone whose done this

 

Couple cross cuts gave me the relief to pop them out with vise grips then a socket and BFH got her done

 

If anybody running JD parts is interested.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...assembly-with-4-88s-front-tube-bumper.845717/