Custom turn signal cancellation circuit for running light

I recently swapped out my stock ARB turn signals for some aftermarket Golf MK2 small bumper signal housings. These ones in particular were made by KA Tuning and feature a secondary "running light" next to the signal bulb- something I've wanted for a while since my truck didn't come with DRLs. Many modern cars have a similar setup, but you'll notice that when the signal is activated the running light is disabled so other drivers can see only the amber light - not the case with mine which could lead to the "I couldn't see your turn signal" argument at the inevitable car accident. Think of switchbacks and you'll get the idea.
I did some research and found this post (Setting up aftermarket running lights to cancel on turn signal and hazard flashing | VOG Forum (thevog.net) on a motorcycle forum where he solves it by using timers. I went ahead and ordered two programmable time-delay relays and the required programmer along with two 4"x"2.5" waterproof project boxes and got to work:

Parts:

• Multi-Functional 3V-18V Time Delay Relay | Timers.shop
  
• Universal programmer for timer V8 (timers.shop) (Amazon sells a combo of the programmer and one timer which is a bit cheaper)
  
• 18 gauge wire (~$12 at parts store per color)
• $10 Otdorpatio 2Packs Junction Box IP65 Waterproof ABS Plastic Electrical Project Case Power Junction Boxes, Project Box with Fixed Ear Black 3.94x2.68x1.97"(100x 68 x50 mm)
  Otdorpatio 2Packs Junction Box IP65 Waterproof ABS Plastic Electrical Project Case Power Junction Boxes, Project Box with Fixed Ear Black 3.94x2.68x1.97 inch(100x 68 x50 mm) - Amazon.com - I used this as it would fit on the side bracket of my ARB bumper and comes with waterproof output plugs you can put onto the sides. The timer itself is only ~1"x1" so it's quite small.

I followed the instructions from the forum post and set my timer's Function to T_H2_F13_V2.0, and the Configuration to:

• Time t1 sec: 1.5
• Trig Blue: 2
• Trig logical func: Blue only
• Output: Reversed
• Low power (this I believe shuts off the timer under certain conditions. You might be able to do without it)

Attached is the diagram of what wires go where, but in essence:

• Power comes in from ACC and supplies the relay with 12v
• Turn signal wire from the car (green on my '02) is spliced and goes to the blue "sensor" wire
  
• Ground (either white wire from the turn signal or your own ground from your running light) is spliced and goes to black)
  
• Yellow from the relay goes to positive on the running light. Yellow gets disabled/enabled after a certain amount of time based on voltage going to the blue wire.
• Green and White wires from the relay I capped off with wire nuts and put inside the project box. Green I believe is for a second trigger and white is the data wire for programming.

As you can see, the turn signal is not reliant on the timer relay being powered so you can still use hazards when the key is out, or if the timer dies your signals will still work.
Ideally you would use matching colored wires, but I only had red.


Video: https://youtube.com/shorts/OPMnUtxcriM?feature=share
I'm aware an incandescent would look better and in fact the lights did come with them. The problem is the chrome coating on the light housing isn't heat resistant so it ends up melting after a while... Hence why I had to switch to an LED