Best 3.5inch lift for my Taco

Looking to put a 3.5inch lift/level on my 2022 Tacoma. I have an Alu-Cab canopy camper and looking to make it more durable for the Alaskan outdoors. It’s a Sr5 and completely stock

 

Tons of info on here, try a search. If you revisit your first post, it was suggested to stay 2" and under.

 

I second 2" and under, not because we're cranky old men and lame, but because the truck is guaranteed to drive like shit with no down travel in the suspension, and you'll be ripping your cv boots (and running into *a lot* of other issues)

Do dig deep before you go 3.5" that extra inch or so comes with a ton of draw backs.

 

Like others have said keep it at 2” keeping components happy.

 

Like my wife says, 2” is all thats needed

 

Could go 4" lift on a drop bracket kit, which would avoid the CV joint issue and much of the ride/handling issue... Though this requires cutting a crossmember to install it if you're 4x4.
Or maybe a long-travel kit...

Not many other options on these trucks though due to the way the IFS is designed.

 

There isn’t a legitimate 3.5” lift for a 3rd gen. From the factory they have about 3” of down travel, so 3” is the physical limit you can increase the ride height using longer springs and/or spring preload. But you don’t want to have zero down travel, so typically people suggest limiting the lift to 2”.

There are ways around this limit that include top hat spacers, drop bracket lifts, 2wd spindle lifts, long travel suspension, and solid axle conversions.

 

Best 3.5 " lift?

2"

 

We recommend Toyotas stick with 2" or less of lift. If you want to go higher, you will need to change control arms and do other supporting components with the lift to make items such as bump stops, CV axle angles, steering angles all "happy". There are lifts that offer up to 3.5" of lift, however, we recommend staying near the 2.5" to 3" mark to retain as much ride quality as you can and to not overextend/bind CV axles which is common on lifts pushed to the 3.5" mark.

Over 2" of lift (in the front) you will need upper control arms at the least to get proper articulation geometry and quality alignment numbers.

As for the rear of the vehicle, 2" of lift in the front will level the truck with a stock weight rear height, yours with the Alucab looks to be sitting a good 1.5-2" lower than factory height? You will want to change your rear leaf springs to account for this added weight. Depending on if you want a level look or to retain the factory rake appearance, there are a few different options from Icon, OME and Deaver that will correct this.

Brand wise, shocks vary in maintenance schedule, build materials, coatings, performance and ride quality. Kings, Icons, ADS, ARB/OME, Dobinsons, Toytec and Elka are all solid, reputable brands, that allow for rebuilding the shocks when necessary or at maintenance intervals and adjustable collars at the top of the coilover for easier adjustments to the height of the vehicle. We also offer Bilsteins, OME and Eibach shocks that have adjustable height settings using perch collar positions, this allows for dialing in exactly where you want the front end to sit. Adjustable coilovers can range from $999-$2999 per pair, whereas Bilstein 5100s, OME Nitrocharged shocks, Dobinsons Twin Charged shocks and Eibachs mono-tube shocks range in the $200-$750.

Let me know if I can be of assistance!

 

This. Great write up @OffroadAlliance.com. I would also throw out the option for adding some air bags (like these Ride Rite Firestone ones) to help support the load of the Alu Cab if you don't want to swap your leaf pack. They're also good addition if you do swap leaf packs.

I will also plug Bilstein for shocks. A common setup guys run on here that gives a great bang for your buck is the 6112 (font shocks) / 5160 (rear shocks) combo. Designed by Bilstein to work in tandem very well & everything Bilstein designs & manufactures is product specific, so their valving is specific to your generation & model.

 

only rough country makes 3.5" kits. thats because they make the extended length of their shocks too long to maintain downtravel up until the balljoints bind or spindle smashes into shock. whatever ends up happening first. they are a trash company that done this simply to have the highest lift kit available without a drop bracket.

also onto your downtravel point. this is why i absolutely believe going with extended travel coilovers are worth it. it may only be a single inch more of travel but when your lifted at 2.5-3" that extra inch of downtravel is huge.

 

They are labeled 3.5”, but are they that in reality? I’ve long assumed there are referring to the lift gained on a 2nd gen. I think many people accept marketing descriptions as truth and never actually get out the tape measure.

 

I've seen the CV angles on trucks with the RC 3.5". It isn't pretty (nor are the tie rod angles).
Much better to have a 4" drop-bracket kit (if the crossmember thing is ok with you).

 

they probably are knowing rough country. shocks are way longer and coils preloaded more. they do a insane 4.5" strut spacer lift for the chevy trucks that destroy the front end within a year so i wouldn't put it past them