Anything welding

I don't for welding, but always for grinding.

 

I appreciate the feedback. I have a half mask with 3M filters but it isn’t doing me any good hanging on the wall.

I thought maybe I would wear a PAPR more often but not really sure since it seems bulky.

 

I almost bought a PAPR, but that would've been used at my last job.

Half masks are fine, at least for me cause whenever I step into the garage, I always put on some eyepro.

Whether I'm just cutting, drilling, welding, etc I always have a pair of clear eyepro on.

 

No, I’ve had the Miller hood for several years now. However, doesn’t seem to do well with square wave inverters. So I have to trust my old 90’s Lincoln to get me by. But only 10/11 shade. Love the Ultra Shade though nonetheless, never needs batteries.

I did kick down My Everlast to me older bro, just picked up. CKWW MT200. Can’t wait to try it out.

 

So I traded me older bro for my original TIG machine. Yeah, she was a cheap one, but damn can she weld very well in the lower amperages.

I had to add two pieces today and used it. Old eyes still hanging, but barely, lol. Torched the beginning bad, thought I was going to sneeze

 

I made a comment about hoods a year or so ago on here.

My friend had called me and was complaining about his Miller Digital Elite causing him to get arc flashed and not seeing well in general while doing TIG. I've tried Miller's (for MIG) and I liked what I saw but ultimately decided on the Lincolns.

Anyway, I had him bring over his hood so I can test it myself while he wore my Lincoln.

Sure as shit, whenever I tried TIG welding with his hood, it would flicker on and off. Yes, we tried with a new battery, but it still flickered which sucked. I wore it while doing some MIG and it worked perfectly fine, so I don't know if it was interference or not cause I thought Miller's were supposed to be good at auto darkening based on its different modes for darkening.

Glad I have Lincoln hoods and not Millers cause I'd find myself chucking that shit across the street if I got arc flashed while welding.

 

For sure, you ain’t lying and nothing but. Not cool experiences. So with this square wave Eastwood, I have to use the Lincoln. The Miller hood did well with the Everlast.

Yeah, I’ll be going back to Lincoln soon. I was just grinding a lot the past 5 years, so the Miller is awesome for that being it has a feature for that. And cutting too.

 

I’ve had no issues with the ESAB Sentinel. I originally bought it because of the external grind button. It was more of a push and hold instead of just push and I ended up breaking it through the housing. I zip tied it back and now I never use it. However, I sure as hell wouldn’t tolerate any intermittent darkening from any hood.

 

Just in case someone searches in the future. If you have a Miller Elite, stay away from square wave TIG machines. Anything else goes.

 

Week 8 and that infamous howl you hear in the woods

 

I guess I’m not following here and want to clarify. Are you saying that Miller designed or at least endorsed a helmet that conflicts with their own Dynasty line of AC/DC TIG machines?

 

I wouldn’t be surprised if it does happen.

I’m going off of what I know and have experienced. It’s not a good thing being flashed, particularly spot welding at high amperages.

If it’s a square wave machine, I’m staying away. Analog is just fine.

The MT200 is a square wave, so I’m probably going with a CK helmet as well.

 

yea i do, especially for stainless and aluminum

 

Scary it can be measured. East Los works.

 

Heard on the street that CK themselves are not happy with the CK helmet. So I went with the Lincoln 3350. Stoked.

CK is a very nice machine. The size is nice. Weight is good. But hopefully get a chance on a HTP someday!!!!

 

Finally after way too long fab time I’m finally burning these in. Really taking my time with them to try to do everything right. Learned I need to plan my tacks better, especially on the pieces that are supposed to be welded with gaps vs one long bead. Still gotta figure out how I am going to resolve the tacks I put in a section that is ultimately not supposed to be welded.

 

cold chisel and some effort could work and wouldn't leave a bunch of random grinding marks everywhere

 

I'll try that, thanks! I definitely will plan the tacks better on the driver side slider.

 

alternatively, grind them out, pick up some sandblasting sand, and use a handheld sand blaster like this to spot finish the metal.

$30 NANPU Air Sand Blaster Gun with Gravity Feed - Ceramic Nozzle, Metal Body | for Paint, Rust Removal, and Glass Etching | Versatile for Aluminum, Sand, Walnut Shells, and Soda Blasting Applications

https://www.amazon.com/NANPU-Sand-Blaster-Gravity-Feed/dp/B0CXS6RPYZ

you'll also need an inline regulator to drop the pressure, as you don't need much at all. it's mostly quick spurts on the affected area's.

$16 Air compressor pressure regulator 1/4" mini pressure gauge, double connection pressure regulator air compressor air pump accessories 180psi 12bar (three-way valve)

https://www.amazon.com/compressor-regulator-connection-accessories-three-way/dp/B08R8F5J4K/

 

Seems I didn’t have to worry about the tacks too much. Surgical with a cut off and a smoothing disc on top.



Once it’s pc’d you won’t see shit.