SOLD FS for $2.5k: 02 reg. cab manual 4x4 Tacoma on recall frame

SOLD

2002 Regular cab Tacoma:

• Southern truck on clean recall frame w/ light surface rust (pics below)
• Manual trans.
• 4x4
• 2.7L 4 cyl.
• SR5
• 6-lug
• Bucket seats
• 33" Dextero AT tires, like-new
• 292k miles
• Some body rust above rear passenger mudflap, underside of hood, bed rails, and driver side rocker (pics below)
• Cat delete (prev. owner)
• Engine doesn't run, likely electrical (read below)
• AC blows hot
• Otherwise, other systems are fine
• Garage kept since it stopped running
• $3,000 obo, open to trades

This lovely Taco has been my project for a minute, and I don’t have the budget or motivation to see it through the way I know some folks on here would or could. I’d rather it go to somebody with the time, dime, and knowhow than let it sit in my garage. It's mostly stock. Only aftermarket stuff I can discern (all done by previous owner) are:

• Small body lift,
• New head unit w/ CD player
• 33” Dexteros
• Cat delete

I have replaced:

• Throttle position sensor
• Clutch position sensor
• Idle air controller
• Spark plugs and boots
• Had ECM remanufactured (w/ warranty)

Body/frame: It was bought new in NY, but has lived in eastern Kentucky since getting a recall frame (to my knowledge, but can confirm later). Frame and mounts look great besides a little surface rust/scale. Paint and clear coat is decent. Some body rust on rear passenger quarter (including a hole), driver side rocker, bed rails, and under hood. The steelie wheels have a little surface rust too (pictured below).

Mechanical: Bought in 2021 and it ran great as my DD. Then one winter day it would crank but stall out after a couple seconds of rough idle and white smoke.

No check engine lights. Battery was fine and basically brand new. Oil level was fine, no bubbles in coolant either. Main seal was fine. No leaks on the ground either. The gas wasn’t old and the fuel pump worked, so I checked fuses and relays. All were fine too.

I pulled the sparks and they got spark just fine, though they could use a change so I did (along with the boots). Same result: crank and no fire.

Tried again the next day and same results, but now with check engine lights. Code reader wouldn’t communicate with it. Neither would the next three I tried, including one I borrowed from O’Reilly’s.

So I pulled the ECM. Circuits to the IAC and TPS were blown, so I sent whole ECM off to get remanufactured. In the meantime (it took them a month to reman it), I pulled the throttle body, IAC, and TPS. The latter read ohms through the roof so I replaced it. The IAC had a spider’s nest in it (lol) and it was grimy so I replaced it too. Also cleaned the throttle body while I was at it. The clutch position sensor was bad, so I replaced that too. I also changed the oil since I figured uncombusted gas from trying to start it had likely run down into the pan.

A month or so later when the ECM came back, I tried again and got a similar result, only no white smoke and it ran a tiny bit better and a second or two longer before dying. The OBD reader still wouldn’t communicate either, so I figured it’s some sort of electrical fault or bad ground, maybe. It may not be getting power, but I’m kind of a newb at electrical diag so it may be something else.

That’s when I moved on from it, honestly. I disconnected the battery, siphoned the gas, and let it rest in my garage.

I’m no electrician, can’t afford to hire one, and don’t feel like just shotgunning parts at it without codes to go by (esp. if the whole thing is electrical to begin with). My next step would be to replace the MAF (though it reads fine and wasn’t too dirty).

I’m sure this would be a breeze for plenty of folks on here to troubleshoot into a badass little DD. It sure was when I drove it. It could make a great trail or wood rig too.

I’m located in Lexington, Kentucky. If it’s something you’re interested in I’m happy to talk, via DM.

Other odds and ends:

• Parking brake cable frayed behind dash. I have the replacement part and plan to swap it out if sale isn't quick.
• AC also blows hot. I haven't checked for leaks or recharged it yet (though I have a bottle of refrigerant with pressure gauge to go with sale/trade). Heater, fan, and diverter all work great, though.
• Fuel door stays closed but is missing its spring.

More pics to come this weekend, with focus on frame. Feel free to request any specific shots you'd like.

 

A few frame pics. Also one of the driver side to show slight body rust on bottom of driver door.

 

Might try and get running then list it.
6k and doesn’t run is too much for something that doesn’t run

 

Fair point. I priced based on avg. of comps from BAT, TW, and FB marketplace (which were admittedly slim considering it’s not running), knowing it’d likely take time and crossed fingers to find the right buyer.

I’m also open to any serious offers tho.

I’m in no rush and I’m hoping to get it to a TW’er instead of going with BAT or FB, but if it’s just crickets on here for a month or so (or a ton more folks also say I’ve overpriced it) I’ll probably pull it down and reassess.

Thanks for the input regardless man.

 

Foreals thats too much for a rust project and engine gremlin

 

Maybe. I’m curious what y’all believe is a fair price.

 

$800 as a parts truck. LOL…trucks 22 years old and stickered for $18,000 or less new.

 

It’s definitely worth more than $800. Brand new Chevy Silverado drivers aren’t exactly the target audience for this truck.

I would venture it is worth $2-3k as is. If you get it running probably around $5k, would be surprised if you got more than $7k. These trucks aren’t worth as much in the Midwest but a manual transmission Tacoma with a solid frame isn’t super easy to come by in our area. I say keep working on it to get it running so you can recoup a couple grand in value. Easier said than done…

 

What is the target audience for none operable first gens with a suspicious frame and body rot? Given the market is much different now but I sold this truck in 2006 for $3,500 with 130K miles on it.
Running perfectly. It was a one owner and was 9 years old at the time. The frame had a couple of bad spots that needed attention and that is why I sold it for $3,500 opposed to $5,000. Again, today is a different market but that truck has a lot of issues and DOES NOT RUN and no one knows why. It is 22 years old. It has 300k miles on it. I do not see it. I stand by $800. Best of luck to the OP, get all you can get. At this point I suspect it worth more in parts than as a whole truck.

 

Likely not someone from Nevada who has the luxury of not dealing with rust. Us in the Midwest have to make compromises. If the frame was replaced in the recall that’s called a perk out here. Rusty rocker panels mean nothing if you just want a running truck. I hear ya on selling your old Tacoma but that was twenty years ago, tough to compare pricing. Where I live, most people buy these sorts of beaters to fix it up and have a cheap operable truck. Honestly, if I had a truck and trailer capable of hauling it I would buy this truck for $800 plus the gas and time to get it. If I lived near by and wanted a project, it seems like $2k could end up being a great price.

 

The truck I sold was in VA. I have lived all over. It is worth what someone will pay for it. I hope the OP gets $7,000 for it. The opinion was asked so I provided mine.
Keep in mind that frame recall was a long time ago. Those replaced frames are now rotten in a lot of cases. Mine had frame issues 9 years from new and I took care to wash the salt off. Mine rotted from the inside out due to the humid environment.
Most smart projects check at least one box. Not running but clean body. Or runs good but body is beat up. Maybe the drivetrain is good but it needs frame work. Maybe the truck has low miles. This truck literally checks none of those boxes.
I get it. I had 2 first gen Tacomas and several pre Tacoma Toyota pickups. 1979-1994. Then a 97 and a 2001 Tacoma and an 07 and 2011. I get the cult following. BUT… they all don’t have value. They do wear out and some are worth parts at best. Perhaps this is a doable project for someone. Hopefully it is but at the end of the day it’s not worth more than 3-5% of its original sticker in any market.

 

$1500.00 or less

 

Thanks for the input, gents.

Dropping as-is price to $4,500 obo (open to trades) and will keep tinkering.

I just picked up a wire wheel and rust reformer to hit some of these surface rust spots on the cab and bed mounts and clean up some misc. minor scaling too.

Also grabbed a replacement parking brake cable to install in the next couple weeks (I've got spinal problems and have to pace myself).

Beyond that, I plan to save up for having a proper mechanic run diag on the electrical gremlin.

Also, I'm happy to entertain any serious offers. I appreciate y'all

 

Bump $4200

 

Bump $4000 obo

 

Sent you a message

 

Roger that. I hit you back. Thanks

 

And here we are now finally to a price drop to $3000 obo. Hit me up, y’all!

 

Bump $2500 obo

 

SOLD