Will this blow a fuse?

Hey guys so I just recently installed a new Gentex 435 Mirror in my SR Tacoma.

I had to buy a harness from Bobs Mirrors (great guy btw check out his website). https://www.bobsmirrors.com/

So I bought this harness https://www.bobsmirrors.com/Wiring-...Auto-Dim-Compass-Homelink®-Mirrors_p_330.html
and I tapped both t-taps into a single 12v "ignition on" wire that powers both the rear view dimming mirror itself and the homelink when the ignition is on. Everything works as it should.

I want to also get a dashcam and have seen the Dongar Adapter that many people use. I am just curious if I get the Dongar Adapter and plug a dash cam into it, will that be too much? I mean it is all coming from a single 12v wire. So that single 12v wire would be powering the Dimming Mirror, the homelink, and a dash cam.

I wanted to avoid having to plug the dash cam into the cigarette lighter but I also don't want to blow a fuse in my truck and then have to deal with that. Let me know your thoughts or if I need to explain a bit more lol. I am completely new to wiring and voltage related things so apologies if this is a dumb question.

TIA.

 

It ain't the voltage, it's how many amps you are pulling through the fuse that makes it melt. If possible, figure out the Amp draw of everything on the circuit and do the math.

 

What he said ^

first step is figuring out how many amps each item is pulling when they’re on

 

It may or may not blow the fuse..might just melt the wires

 

Only one way to find out! Send it!

 

Seems the Garmin Mini 3 (the one I am planning to get) maxes at 1.6A from a 12v. I can't imagine the mirror and homelink would pull anywhere close to that.
I connected to this but can't seem to find detailed info on the voltage or amps.

 

Id rather not

 

If your Taco has no sliding roof, that circuit is free (20 amps), all it need is a wire with the missing terminal (090/2.3II) inserted into IN1_9



Remove the 20a fuse to a lower compatible amp one.

 

Issue is it's misidentified as an Ignition source when in realty it's a battery source circuit, as in always "hot".

 

A fusing system is designed to blow before the wires start melting, that's fundamental to fusing. If what you describe happens your installer is clueless.

 

Ever see blower motor wires melt?overloaded or loose connections,wire gauge(size),can cause wires to melt and Not blow the fuse ….seen it many times

 

Yup, the engineer that chose to use the inadequate connector that's the cause of the blower fan issues should be fired, only reason the wires there melt is the connector right next to them can't handle the current the resistor pack demands. That OEM setup is poorly designed and not up to the job.

 

But why didn’t the fuse blow?

 

Because there wasn't an over current situation, the fuse will last almost forever if you don't exceed it's current rating. The problem with the fan is the connector not the wires or amount of current, the connector isn't up to the task. The wires weren't loverloaded, they're overheated from the connector.

 

Wire on their own in a circuit won't melt if their current rating isn't exceeded. The fact that the fan fuse isn't blowing is telling you there isn't excessive current. There's excessive resistance in a poor connector which heats up including everything around it. Had Toyots put a better connector on the fan resistor our trucks wouldn't have the issue. It has nothing to do with current overload which is what the OPs question is about and what fusing is for.