Drivers side camber issue

I’ve had negative camber on the drivers side. The passenger side wheel is straight. I haven’t taken it to a shop for an alignment. I have adjustable fox shocks that are turned up a little more (about .5” to 1”) because I had a drivers side lean. I went to put 3 inch blocks on the struts and the knuckle wouldn’t go back together. The passenger side went together with no problem. So i replaced the knuckle and uca expecting one of those to be bent and fix my problem. I got the knuckle and uca back together but still with negative camber on the drivers side and now the knuckle hits the spring.

So I guess my question is why exactly is my drivers side causing such issues while the passenger side is going together fine. Does it have to do with tightening the preload on my struts or do I need longer uca. I’ve looked at ksp 2-4s and at spcs adjustable uca.

I’m new to the forums and any help would be greatly appreciated

 

"3 inch blocks on the struts"???????? That's waaaay beyond what stock geometry can handle, in fact nothing will compensate for 3 inch strut spacers. You've made your strut 3 inches longer and its forcing 3" of extra droop. The uca travels in an arc and that arc eventually travels inwards towards the frame at full droop bringing the top of your tire towards the frame and kicking the bottom of the tire out away from the frame(the negative camber you're talking about). Take those 3 inch strut blocks out. There's no free lunch regarding lifting the ifs on these trucks.

The passenger side might have gone together because the lower control arm cam bolt position might have offset this issue enough for smooth assembly.

 

It's not going together because 3" lift blocks are absurd and stupid. No way it's going to align, not to mention the horrific effects on the ride and high likelihood of bottoming out and breaking a coilover.
That much lift requires a drop bracket kit (also extremely stupid) or a solid axle swap.

 

Please show us some pictures of your issue.

 

Both cam bolts are in the same position, both lca are pulled in.The top of the passenger side tire is leaning outward which I believe will align correctly all I would have to do is turn the lca out to get it in alignment. I just don’t understand why the drivers side is so vastly different than the passenger side. I’ve been searching and this doesn’t seem to be something common or something that happens at all. I’m starting to wonder if this is being cause by frame damage from a wreck i’m unaware of. I know the suspension is extremely stretched but the the passenger would align right and not hit the spring and I don’t really do much off-roading so i’m not to worried about bottoming out. I’m used to gm trucks where you can get loaded struts, spacers, longer spindle, and longer uca, that can have you sitting and 9+ inches of lift. I’ve noticed there is not a lot of lift options like that for 1st gen tacomas. My wheel had negative camber before the spacers with the adjusted strut set at about 2”.

 

nothing is ever "precisely the same" when it comes to mass-produced items. there will always be differences and sometimes things don't line up from side to side.

I would rotate the camber bolt so the LCA is all the way out, bolt everything up, and then see where you can move it. at that point you may need UCAs with adjustment to make your alignment within spec (due to the nature of the IFS)