Tech says I need new cam bolts?

I recently installed a lift on my 3rd gen and went to get new tires and alignment. JBA UCAs on it and they recommended 3.5 to 4.5 degrees of caster and factory specs for camber and toe. Alignment tech says my cam bolts are maxed out and they need another degree or so to get my alignment right and caster in the correct range. Does this sound right? And if so, any recommendations on new cam bolts?

Truck is 3rd gen DCLB with Eibach pro truck 2R, JBA UCAs, Deaver stage 1, 285/70/17

Alignment sheet for reference.

 

you have a pretty common lift setup and the stock cam bolts shouldnt be maxed out. do you have any pictures of the LCA cam bolt position? there are 2 for each LCA, one facing the front of the car and another facing the rear. you can see both of them in this photo. on the bolt, there is a washer on it that has some indicating marks. That will tell you what position the cam bolts are in. If you Right Front cam bolt is truly maxed out, you should see the dial turned all the way to one side.

 

Looks like the rearward bolt is maxed out but the front one doesn't seem to be.

 

Looks like the tech is trying to get you back in spec, instead of adjusting you to the caster you should be at with that setup.

They fixed your toe, but looks like they don't fully understand how the cam bolts work on these trucks.

Also with how whack those numbers were, you should have them align it, then destress the suspension off the rack, and then pull it back up to have checked again.

 

Appreciate the replies guys. This is at discount auto where I purchased the tires. I think I will take it to a proper off road shop to see if they can square it away with out replacing cam bolts.

 

the indicating line on the washer should be pointed to either of the 2 black tabs next to it (i.e. inboard or outboard side) for the cam bolt to be maxed out.

None of the cam bolts look like they are in the maxed position. it seems the shop is recommending the max caster for a stock LCA which is generally ~4.0deg while maintaining 0deg camber. you can get up to 5deg of castor but you start getting a lot of positive camber. the alignment tech should max out the castor on the rear eccentric bolt, i forgot if the indicating line should point inboard or outboard. And then use the front eccentric bolt to set the camber. This will pull your tire away from the cab mount giving you the castor/camber you need.

 

Destress the suspension?

 

It's something my alignment shop does. The suspension is under a lot of tension everywhere especially when making big alignment changes, so they'll align it how they want and then unload the suspension by pulling it off the rack and maybe driving around the building to let it adjust and then rerack it and double check. Gives you a much more precise reading the second time around and then there is only a small amount of adjustment needed after that to correct it back to where it should be.

 

Oh yeah that makes sense. didnt want to assume what you were saying. I have a place for alignments that are kind of... half assing it in my opinion so this thread will be useful to me