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Tacoma randomly decides not to start

Discussion in 'General Tacoma Talk' started by MC68440, Sep 12, 2024.

  1. Sep 12, 2024 at 8:42 PM
    #1
    MC68440

    MC68440 [OP] Active Member

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    I have a 2017 Tacoma, deluxe cab, V6, Manual 6 speed. It only has 43K on it.

    It recently started to randomly not start. I can drive to the store, and once there, it won’t start. 5 minutes later, it starts.

    A few things to expand on. When I say it won’t start, I mean it doesn’t even try to. No starter attempting to turn, no noises like trying to start with a dead battery. The battery is strong, lights, fan, windows all have good power, no ‘Check Electrical System’ messages on the LCD. I can hear the fuel pump running when the key is in the start position.

    It always starts the first time in the morning. I can drive it with no issues once it is started. Blast the AC, Headlights on, and it runs fine. I can go to lunch in it and it starts both times, then when trying to go home it refuses to start. It’s almost like it doesn’t want to start when it’s hot outside.

    Once, I had stopped at a store and it wouldn’t start again. I called the auto club, they arrived and gave me a jump – it started. They sold me a battery, swapping it as the engine was running. They said wait 5 minutes, turn it off, and we can ‘check our work’ … it wouldn’t start. The guy was in disbelief. He put the original battery back and I had to get it flat-bedded home. In the morning, it starts. Take it to the dealer; they say it’s the battery. They sell me a battery and charge me to put it in. Drive it home, its fine. Next morning, it starts. No issue for about 2 weeks. Then I get stranded at work because it won’t start. I put it in neutral and roll it back a few feet and it starts. During the next weeks, it happened numerous times, but I eventually could get it to start. Take it to the dealer again. After having it for 2 days, they say they were able to reproduce the issue and it’s the starter. Paid them a couple of thousand because they charged me labor for the time they tried to reproduce it, plus the starter. No issue for four weeks then it started to flake again. I ordered a new starter relay and put it in, still continues to flake. So today after work, it doesn’t start. I’m rather peed off. Call roadside service, 1.5 hours later, they still have not shown up. I tried one more time and started.

    I will be going back to the dealer in the morning, and I don’t want them to take another 2 days to figure it out and charge me the labor again – just want the thing fixed.

    Any other things come to mind that could cause this? I have had suggestions that it could be the alarm’s ignition kill switch is engaged and even the physical key mechanism.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!
     
    HondaGM likes this.
  2. Sep 12, 2024 at 9:06 PM
    #2
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    Have you tried using the Clutch Start Cancel button when it won't crank?
    Have you checked for power at the S terminal of the starter while someone holds the key in the crank position when it won't crank?
    The factory immobilizer will not disable the starter.
     

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  3. Sep 12, 2024 at 9:27 PM
    #3
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    The clutch cancel switch is the first place to start for sure.

    Without reading the story and assuming the battery was good I'd totally go after the starter as well, it sucks that didnt fix it.

    I'd be jumping the starter manually during the next no-crank episode. It's simple, MAKE SURE ITS IN NEUTRAL.

    The 2 fat pins on the starter relay are the power to the starter solenoid, a simple wire across the 2 fat terminals will trigger the starter. With the key in the on position, it should start.

    If it doesn't crank, its starter circuit, if it does crank then its the ignition circuit.
     
  4. Sep 13, 2024 at 6:33 AM
    #4
    MC68440

    MC68440 [OP] Active Member

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    Oh yes, I have tried Clutch Start Cancel button when it won't crank, no luck, it makes no difference - the light on the switch is illuminated when pressed.

    Thanks for the wiring diagram - huge help and much appreciated! I will check for voltage at the S terminal of the starter next time - great idea!

    I've changed the relay but it made no difference and now used, isn't returnable! However, I do like the idea of jumping the relay to isolate the issue to either the starter side and the side that engages the relay...

    Looking deeper in the diagram, "the Park/Neutral Position SW" looks interesting to me. I have been able at times to get it started simply by shifting through gears, then back to neutral and trying to crank again. Is this switch located in the stick shift area? I have spilled a good share of coffee over the years there ...hmm.

    Thanks for the suggestions!
     
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  5. Sep 13, 2024 at 7:15 AM
    #5
    MC68440

    MC68440 [OP] Active Member

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    I'm digging the relay jumping idea. Since I have an extra starter relay, I'm going to take it apart - put a push button switch on it's top and an LED too. So the LED should light when the key is in the start position, and if it not, push the button to kick the starter directly.
     
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  6. Sep 13, 2024 at 8:43 AM
    #6
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    Yours is a manual so it doesn't use a park/neutral switch, manual only uses a clutch switch but if it won't start with the clutch start cancel switch then it can't be the clutch switch.
     
  7. Sep 13, 2024 at 9:10 AM
    #7
    MC68440

    MC68440 [OP] Active Member

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    Makes sense. Now I understand the schematic (A/T) and (M/T) too (duh) - There's really not much to either side of the relay.
     
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  8. Sep 13, 2024 at 9:57 AM
    #8
    MC68440

    MC68440 [OP] Active Member

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    I took apart the spare starter relay and jammed a small piece of plastic in the contacts to keep them sorted, then put the top cover back on it. It tested fine - cranks it without hitting the bypass or pressing the clutch. Nice clean and no wires. I'm now strangely hoping it will not start to see this hack in action. While I was in there, I removed and reinserted all the cable connectors going to the block a few times.

    Appreciate the suggestions. I will keep you updated in a few days or when it fails again.
     
    Stevie17 likes this.
  9. Sep 13, 2024 at 10:35 AM
    #9
    Rusty66

    Rusty66 Ain’t Afraid

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    I had one with the same condition, no codes. It turned out to be the chip in the key was bad.
     
  10. Sep 13, 2024 at 10:44 AM
    #10
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    That wouldn't cause a no crank on one with a physical key, it would be a crank-no start. Now on a push button start it would be a no crank if it couldn't communicate with the fob.
     
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  11. Sep 13, 2024 at 11:48 AM
    #11
    MC68440

    MC68440 [OP] Active Member

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    I can carry my spare key with me for sheeps and giggles, but with my luck, the truck will be fine until I least expect it.
     
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  12. Nov 7, 2024 at 12:10 PM
    #12
    MC68440

    MC68440 [OP] Active Member

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    Just an update to this issue. The truck has started faithfully since I reseated all of the harnesses around the fuse-box under the hood. It's been about a month and a half and would have surely failed by now. I should have done that first before allowing the dealer to change the starter, the battery, and relay. Sometimes it's the most simple things.
     
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