Is this green wire stock? No crank starter issues on ingition switch

I've been troubleshooting intermittent starting issues on my 95 Tacoma and have narrowed it down to a wire going into the ignition switch. If I wiggle this green wire with blue head I can replicate the issue using my test light. The previous/original owner has wired up a few aftermarket things and I'm wondering if this green wire is stock. The blue head appears to be something that just clips onto a wire so I'm not sure. Any thoughts?

 

Another close up photo

 

Sometimes those scotch-lock connectors sever the wire... The knucklehead who installed it could have put it anywhere on the wire and they chose to put it at such a place that if the wire is bad it is going to be a problem to fix because there isnt enough wire there to work with. I would pry the scotch-lock off.

 

Scotch-lock connectors are fast. I'll give them that. But as @Glamisman said, they can also sever wires. When that happens, any continuity that you might have is wire stubs pressed against the plated fork inside the scotch-lock. Although it takes 3 to 4 times as long, I don't use `em.

Instead, I'll make soldered connections or use a heat-shrink butt connector into which two wires go into one end.

In the OP's green wire situation, I can't tell if it's OEM. The only way to tell without a wire diagram is to remove the scotch-lock. Then repair it with a soldered connection. That will rpobably require removing the pin from the connector, but it'll be worth the trouble.

Then the same remedy needs to be applied to the other scotch-lock connectors, but only if the add-on wires actually go anywhere. If the add-on wires don't lead to something that is in use, they should be removed. Then the cut in the OEM wire needs to be repaired with a soldered connection sealed with heat shrink tubing.

I had a similar issue with a work truck. A low bid outfit installed a car alarm and put scotch-locks in the steering column shroud. Whey the tilt wheel was all the way up, the ignition would occasionally cut out during left turns. That was not an issue for me, but it was for my 400 lb supervisor. I ended up pulling the scotch-locks and soldering.

 

Thank you. Am I wrong that there isn't a 2nd wire coming out of the scotch-lock? Shouldn't there be one continuous wire that the scotch lock is connected to, with another wire starting at that location?

Almost that they used it like a butt connector

 

I think you're correct in that there isn't a second wire coming out of the green wire scotch-lock. That's an indication that the green wire is OEM. It also indicates that whatever wire was there before was removed without much consideration for the continuity of the green wire.

 

Thanks. How do I remove the pin from the connector? Would it be easier to just replace the entire wire harness?

 

Thats the problem, getting the correct wiring tool to relase the pins on the wire connector.

 

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I can't tell which wire they are tapped into but green isn't a stock color for the ignition switch, wiring diagrams attached below.

 

It looks like the green may be a splice. You can see the lower end going into some electrical tape and then I think coming out black on the other end of that. I'll have to look at it again in the morning. Any chance you know the part number for this set of wires and plug?

 

That would make sense, Black is the wire that controls the starter relay.

I do not, @caribe makaira might.

Is there not enough wire left to make a splice if you remove the scotchlock?

 

Not sure, but I'll look at it again in the morning when I have more light. Thanks for your help