HOW TO: 2012+ Power Window Switches in 2005 - 2011 Trucks

So the below info is when you're sitting inside the driver seat:

1. The door needs to be closed, or else lock wouldn't lock when press by switch.
2. Door open, pressing switch lock will lock/unlock doors.
3. Door closed and lock, pulling the door handle will unlock and open door. Faster to get out but safety gone from accidental opening. lol. I have never notice that before the mod.

Is all that similar to yours?

 

All of those work correctly.
What I am talking about is the indicator on the door no longer functions.
When I lock the doors this doesn't move to show it locked.
When I unlock doors it also doesn't move.

 

Oh... recheck the wiring and fuses then. After that idk.

 

I pulled the door apart. Turns out it was the wire from the door lock indicator down to the door latch wasn't connected anymore. The plastic on the door latch had broken off. Who knows how long it hadn't been working for. Luckily I was able to "fix" with some glue and zip ties for now. It had nothing to do with this mod.

 

Ok I guess it’s my turn for dumb question. Everything works except door lock from driver side.

I can unlock from driver side.
I can lock/unlock from passenger side.

I cannot lock from driver side.

 

Can you manually move the indicator on the door?

 

Yes, manually i can lock any door. And i can use the passenger side and lock all doors. I just cannot lock on the drivers side.

 

Sounds like one of the wires might not be all the way in making a connection to the new switch. I would double check those two small plugs and make sure that are all the way in making good contact.

 

Which small plugs are you referring to?

The more i think about it, it has to be the switch (which i bought new). Based on my limited understanding of schematics posted on previous page, if it unlocks, that means the power/ground are there to the switch, and ultimately the actuator. Locking/Unlocking is just reversing the polarity of the actuator, correct? But its the same 2 wires that do that (power/ground). So if it works one way, it should work the other way if the switch is making contact???

 

On the pin out pic, pins #2 and #8 are the small plugs. Sometimes those don't like to go all the way in. Those are the two plugs that control the door locks. Check those.

 

Does anyone happen to know a p/n or a generic type wire terminal pin that is used for these connectors( specifically pin # 2 and 8, she smaller ones)?

 

See my posts #52 & 56

The small terminals are:
[Yazaki] 090 type [Sumitomo TS/ Yazaki 090II] series Female terminal non-waterproofing /F090-SMTS[F090-SMTS]

 

Tried to de-pin the drivers side with improvised tools to no success, got some tools and am still struggling. Is there a trick to releasing the pins that I've not figured out? I'm trying to use a thin blade from the component side to press down the plastic locking tab while applying light pressure to the corresponding wire. Am I just not giving it enough force?

 

Are you making sure the white clip is pop opened when you pull the wire and have the tool inserted. If it isn't open the wire wont come out. It holds all the terminals in the driver side connector. Watch this video if you haven't seen it. He shows you it.

Start at 17:04
https://youtu.be/LJek1t5Ngdk?si=0tRC3hrNYgMXxlgT&t=1024

 

Definitely didn't know about that lock, that would explain it. I'll have to give it another shot, bet it'll work now

 

That video was very helpful. Finally got that connector repinned yesterday and everything works now. Definitely the hardest part of the whole swap, but the full auto is very nice