Wisconsin Tacomas and bad financial advice

Supr4Lo · Nov 17, 2024

OldSchlPunk said: ↑

Pat, have you checked out Jason's build page? He did a pretty good job of documenting what he did.
Click to expand...

There is still more work to be done. Just Like @BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT was mentioning I'm limiting up travel because I have more to cut. I'll have to tub the inner fender in the battery and washer reservoir aera for tire clearance to get all the up travel. The outer fenders were just the start. Going to 37s is not a simple hammer here and there job.

Worth all the hassle? Absolutely!!

McSpazatron · Nov 17, 2024

bkhlrTaco's said: ↑

Finished up the hangers with a top coat.....
Got carried away with the woolwax and kept on going.
LCA's, Cab mounts, cross members, side frame back to rear cab mount and bed mount by the front shackle hanger. (both sides)

Click to expand...

You suppose that stuff could be used on the bottom of sliders to keep rock gravel chips away? It should stick over the rustoleum paint I have on the sliders now, at least I would imagine.

It would get scratched off sliding over rocks I’m sure, but if I could touch it up with the same stuff, it might be an easy way to keep gravel chipping to a minimum.

McSpazatron · Nov 17, 2024

Supr4Lo said: ↑

There is still more work to be done. Just Like @BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT was mentioning I'm limiting up travel because I have more to cut. I'll have to tub the inner fender in the battery and washer reservoir aera for tire clearance to get all the up travel. The outer fenders were just the start. Going to 37s is not a simple hammer here and there job.

Worth all the hassle? Absolutely!!
Click to expand...

All ya’ll are crazy! With all that tubbing and hammering, and welding new lower pivots.

@pearing, I’ll chip in 20 bucks into your portal fund. The time and head scratching you’ll save will be worth it. Probably. Ok, maybe not, but still… it will be cool!

CygnusX191 · Nov 17, 2024

pearing said: ↑

Dan, if your over 100k and have a lift... only a matter of time on the boots. If you over 100k on the original wheel bearings... your due. I know where you play, surprised you haven't had an issue yet. Same for Dean, Jonathon and everyone else on here. Between Twark, the holes at Tigerton and everywhere else we play your coming due... Just a friendly maintenance and cash depletion reminder.
Click to expand...

pearing said: ↑

All you big tire guys lurking on here (@Snowy, @BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT , @Supr4Lo, et al ) I am thinking about my lower ball joints a lot lately. Got any suggestions for LCA's? I will probably go up to 37's in a year or two so any help I can get moving the mess forward would be appreciated. Not looking for the wide track long travel look. Inform me please.
Click to expand...

Race car parts.

Also, the JD fab lower pivot kit is really cool.

bkhlrTaco's · Nov 18, 2024

McSpazatron said: ↑

You suppose that stuff could be used on the bottom of sliders to keep rock gravel chips away? It should stick over the rustoleum paint I have on the sliders now, at least I would imagine.

It would get scratched off sliding over rocks I’m sure, but if I could touch it up with the same stuff, it might be an easy way to keep gravel chipping to a minimum.
Click to expand...

Can't hurt.
If you ever need someone to estimate a painting job, don't call on me.

I plan on doing the sliders and I'm going to continue with that textured finish because they get a little slick to step on when wet, if painted smooth.
I'll have enough left to finish the back frame and rear axle.

It should stick fine to the Rust-Oleum.
It's a "one and done" top coat and it says it works better if a little rust is left on so I don't think intense prep is required for it.
I do think temp/humidity and cure time are important so I followed it closely. Keeping my garage around 70°F and 50% humidity all weekend.

bkhlrTaco's · Nov 18, 2024

BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT said: ↑

I’ve had 35s on stock width and stock LCAs but very severely limited my uptravel with it. I went with 2.25 LT because I’m hitting my fenders [outer and inners] on bump with the 35s. I also didn’t love the super wide desert truck look, but I don’t really feel like the 2/2.25 kits are that much wider than stock. I can post a pic of my truck for reference. I also have the JDF lower pivot kit which moves the LCAs forward which is nice. You can run that on stock width as well, but I think the benefit of both the pivot kit AND LT kit that moves the wheel forward has clearance advantage. Now I will say, I think some of my steering issues [sensitive steering and a bit more bump steer than I’d like] comes from having the wheels moved so far forward since it throws the caster so positive.

I will say, to really run >35s, you’re gonna have to cut into the cab for real clearance. Look at the guys out west who are running 37s, all of them are running custom inner fenders/bracing since you get so much wheel stuffed up with full bump.

At the end of the day, 37s [and really running them] are gonna take some work. I know you’re good for the work, but it’s a ton to do to make sure you’re not limiting travel. Running big ol tires and having any shock shaft left on the table feels like the wrong way to do it. The static ground clearance gains vs the dynamic travel gains of good shock work is more appealing to me.

I know there are few companies that make stock width LCAs that are an upgrade: better shape, uniballs/etc, provisions for dual shock. All of those have benefit, especially for you.

https://www.chaosfab.com/product/20...ies-Stock-Length-Lower-Control-Arms-86555-E-T

https://dirtking.com/collections/15-tacoma/products/performance-lower-control-arms-dk-811704

Uniballs are a wear item, but they’ll tighten up the suspension so well. Dual shock means you can run coilovers and bypasses, giving you more specific low and high speed [shaft speed, to be clear] damping control.

If you want to jump to big rubbers, I think you should start with a rock solid foundation. Look at the JDF Lower pivots — it’s a high clearance skid plate AND LCA mount that’s stronger AND more positional. After that, clearance your fenders. I know you’re rocking fiberglass outers, but you’re gonna need to see where your inners are going to hit the tire [even at 35s], which is probably going to be passenger/driver footwell firewall and headlight area and trim that as you see fit. Then, probably some solid coilovers [+bypasses] so you can maximize all of your wheel travel. Don’t be losing inches because your shocks are too short, or because the rod ends are too long. That’s really where the benefit of LT is going to come in — your shocks are a bit more outboard and angled so you get to rock a longer coilover [most kits are running an 8” shock shaft, gives you a better motion ratio]. Hydrobumps will let you squeeze out maximum uptravel while maintaining the protection for your stuff, which is great.

Anyway, thanks for coming to my ted talk. Anyone can hit me up with questions if this is helpful, or tell me to shut it
Click to expand...

Supr4Lo said: ↑

There is still more work to be done. Just Like @BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT was mentioning I'm limiting up travel because I have more to cut. I'll have to tub the inner fender in the battery and washer reservoir aera for tire clearance to get all the up travel. The outer fenders were just the start. Going to 37s is not a simple hammer here and there job.

Worth all the hassle? Absolutely!!
Click to expand...

All I heard was.

bkhlrTaco's · Nov 18, 2024

All you big tire guys. A guy I know with 32's was wondering would it have been easier to buy a Tundra and try to make it smaller vs. making a Tacoma bigger?

pearing · Nov 18, 2024

BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT said: ↑

I’ve had 35s on stock width and stock LCAs but very severely limited my uptravel with it. I went with 2.25 LT because I’m hitting my fenders [outer and inners] on bump with the 35s. I also didn’t love the super wide desert truck look, but I don’t really feel like the 2/2.25 kits are that much wider than stock. I can post a pic of my truck for reference. I also have the JDF lower pivot kit which moves the LCAs forward which is nice. You can run that on stock width as well, but I think the benefit of both the pivot kit AND LT kit that moves the wheel forward has clearance advantage. Now I will say, I think some of my steering issues [sensitive steering and a bit more bump steer than I’d like] comes from having the wheels moved so far forward since it throws the caster so positive.

I will say, to really run >35s, you’re gonna have to cut into the cab for real clearance. Look at the guys out west who are running 37s, all of them are running custom inner fenders/bracing since you get so much wheel stuffed up with full bump.

At the end of the day, 37s [and really running them] are gonna take some work. I know you’re good for the work, but it’s a ton to do to make sure you’re not limiting travel. Running big ol tires and having any shock shaft left on the table feels like the wrong way to do it. The static ground clearance gains vs the dynamic travel gains of good shock work is more appealing to me.

I know there are few companies that make stock width LCAs that are an upgrade: better shape, uniballs/etc, provisions for dual shock. All of those have benefit, especially for you.

https://www.chaosfab.com/product/20...ies-Stock-Length-Lower-Control-Arms-86555-E-T

https://dirtking.com/collections/15-tacoma/products/performance-lower-control-arms-dk-811704

Uniballs are a wear item, but they’ll tighten up the suspension so well. Dual shock means you can run coilovers and bypasses, giving you more specific low and high speed [shaft speed, to be clear] damping control.

If you want to jump to big rubbers, I think you should start with a rock solid foundation. Look at the JDF Lower pivots — it’s a high clearance skid plate AND LCA mount that’s stronger AND more positional. After that, clearance your fenders. I know you’re rocking fiberglass outers, but you’re gonna need to see where your inners are going to hit the tire [even at 35s], which is probably going to be passenger/driver footwell firewall and headlight area and trim that as you see fit. Then, probably some solid coilovers [+bypasses] so you can maximize all of your wheel travel. Don’t be losing inches because your shocks are too short, or because the rod ends are too long. That’s really where the benefit of LT is going to come in — your shocks are a bit more outboard and angled so you get to rock a longer coilover [most kits are running an 8” shock shaft, gives you a better motion ratio]. Hydrobumps will let you squeeze out maximum uptravel while maintaining the protection for your stuff, which is great.

Anyway, thanks for coming to my ted talk. Anyone can hit me up with questions if this is helpful, or tell me to shut it
Click to expand...

Thanks for this-what I was looking for. I am under no illusions that the jump to 37's is going to be easy. I have done a pretty good job getting clearance for the 35's... there is a bit at full stuff and turn that still rubs, but nothing serious. I don't see how a 2nd Gen can run 37's without chopping the cab and inner fender wells. The cab mount has to go too, so there is that to reengineer. Longterm I am thinking SAS so not sure I want the investment into the JDF parts. More thinking to make the LCA/LBJ stronger than what factory is, gain a bit of forward distance to help clearance.

pearing · Nov 18, 2024

bkhlrTaco's said: ↑

All you big tire guys. A guy I know with 32's was wondering would it have been easier to buy a Tundra and try to make it smaller vs. making a Tacoma bigger?

Click to expand...

That guy? he'll be there soon enough...

Supr4Lo · Nov 18, 2024

pearing said: ↑

Thanks for this-what I was looking for. I am under no illusions that the jump to 37's is going to be easy. I have done a pretty good job getting clearance for the 35's... there is a bit at full stuff and turn that still rubs, but nothing serious. I don't see how a 2nd Gen can run 37's without chopping the cab and inner fender wells. The cab mount has to go too, so there is that to reengineer. Longterm I am thinking SAS so not sure I want the investment into the JDF parts. More thinking to make the LCA/LBJ stronger than what factory is, gain a bit of forward distance to help clearance.
Click to expand...

I would say if you plan on a SAS don't invest time cutting and fitting plus dollars into suspension parts now to fit 37s. Just run what you have untill your ready to SAS.

Thatbassguy · Nov 18, 2024

pearing said: ↑

if your over 100k and have a lift... only a matter of time on the boots. If you over 100k on the original wheel bearings... your due.
Click to expand...

My original plan was to do hub bearings and CV's at around 100K. I'm at 125K now, so I should probably start thinking about it.

pearing · Nov 18, 2024

BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT said: ↑

I’ve had 35s on stock width and stock LCAs but very severely limited my uptravel with it. I went with 2.25 LT because I’m hitting my fenders [outer and inners] on bump with the 35s. I also didn’t love the super wide desert truck look, but I don’t really feel like the 2/2.25 kits are that much wider than stock. I can post a pic of my truck for reference. I also have the JDF lower pivot kit which moves the LCAs forward which is nice. You can run that on stock width as well, but I think the benefit of both the pivot kit AND LT kit that moves the wheel forward has clearance advantage. Now I will say, I think some of my steering issues [sensitive steering and a bit more bump steer than I’d like] comes from having the wheels moved so far forward since it throws the caster so positive.

I will say, to really run >35s, you’re gonna have to cut into the cab for real clearance. Look at the guys out west who are running 37s, all of them are running custom inner fenders/bracing since you get so much wheel stuffed up with full bump.

At the end of the day, 37s [and really running them] are gonna take some work. I know you’re good for the work, but it’s a ton to do to make sure you’re not limiting travel. Running big ol tires and having any shock shaft left on the table feels like the wrong way to do it. The static ground clearance gains vs the dynamic travel gains of good shock work is more appealing to me.

I know there are few companies that make stock width LCAs that are an upgrade: better shape, uniballs/etc, provisions for dual shock. All of those have benefit, especially for you.

https://www.chaosfab.com/product/20...ies-Stock-Length-Lower-Control-Arms-86555-E-T

https://dirtking.com/collections/15-tacoma/products/performance-lower-control-arms-dk-811704

Uniballs are a wear item, but they’ll tighten up the suspension so well. Dual shock means you can run coilovers and bypasses, giving you more specific low and high speed [shaft speed, to be clear] damping control.

If you want to jump to big rubbers, I think you should start with a rock solid foundation. Look at the JDF Lower pivots — it’s a high clearance skid plate AND LCA mount that’s stronger AND more positional. After that, clearance your fenders. I know you’re rocking fiberglass outers, but you’re gonna need to see where your inners are going to hit the tire [even at 35s], which is probably going to be passenger/driver footwell firewall and headlight area and trim that as you see fit. Then, probably some solid coilovers [+bypasses] so you can maximize all of your wheel travel. Don’t be losing inches because your shocks are too short, or because the rod ends are too long. That’s really where the benefit of LT is going to come in — your shocks are a bit more outboard and angled so you get to rock a longer coilover [most kits are running an 8” shock shaft, gives you a better motion ratio]. Hydrobumps will let you squeeze out maximum uptravel while maintaining the protection for your stuff, which is great.

Anyway, thanks for coming to my ted talk. Anyone can hit me up with questions if this is helpful, or tell me to shut it
Click to expand...

Know anyone running these? Look beefy and they push things forward. (@Snowy , @CygnusX191 , @Supr4Lo ) Priced competitively. Have a Moog versus a uni ball, but at least easily replaceable.

Shellshock · Nov 18, 2024

LarryDangerfield said: ↑

Honest to God, the one and only thing keeping me strong enough to refrain from going out and getting it is the fact that it's a first model year vehicle.
Click to expand...

good thing 2025 models will be hitting lots any day now!

Shellshock · Nov 18, 2024

BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT said: ↑

I’ve had 35s on stock width and stock LCAs but very severely limited my uptravel with it. I went with 2.25 LT because I’m hitting my fenders [outer and inners] on bump with the 35s. I also didn’t love the super wide desert truck look, but I don’t really feel like the 2/2.25 kits are that much wider than stock. I can post a pic of my truck for reference. I also have the JDF lower pivot kit which moves the LCAs forward which is nice. You can run that on stock width as well, but I think the benefit of both the pivot kit AND LT kit that moves the wheel forward has clearance advantage. Now I will say, I think some of my steering issues [sensitive steering and a bit more bump steer than I’d like] comes from having the wheels moved so far forward since it throws the caster so positive.

I will say, to really run >35s, you’re gonna have to cut into the cab for real clearance. Look at the guys out west who are running 37s, all of them are running custom inner fenders/bracing since you get so much wheel stuffed up with full bump.

At the end of the day, 37s [and really running them] are gonna take some work. I know you’re good for the work, but it’s a ton to do to make sure you’re not limiting travel. Running big ol tires and having any shock shaft left on the table feels like the wrong way to do it. The static ground clearance gains vs the dynamic travel gains of good shock work is more appealing to me.

I know there are few companies that make stock width LCAs that are an upgrade: better shape, uniballs/etc, provisions for dual shock. All of those have benefit, especially for you.

https://www.chaosfab.com/product/20...ies-Stock-Length-Lower-Control-Arms-86555-E-T

https://dirtking.com/collections/15-tacoma/products/performance-lower-control-arms-dk-811704

Uniballs are a wear item, but they’ll tighten up the suspension so well. Dual shock means you can run coilovers and bypasses, giving you more specific low and high speed [shaft speed, to be clear] damping control.

If you want to jump to big rubbers, I think you should start with a rock solid foundation. Look at the JDF Lower pivots — it’s a high clearance skid plate AND LCA mount that’s stronger AND more positional. After that, clearance your fenders. I know you’re rocking fiberglass outers, but you’re gonna need to see where your inners are going to hit the tire [even at 35s], which is probably going to be passenger/driver footwell firewall and headlight area and trim that as you see fit. Then, probably some solid coilovers [+bypasses] so you can maximize all of your wheel travel. Don’t be losing inches because your shocks are too short, or because the rod ends are too long. That’s really where the benefit of LT is going to come in — your shocks are a bit more outboard and angled so you get to rock a longer coilover [most kits are running an 8” shock shaft, gives you a better motion ratio]. Hydrobumps will let you squeeze out maximum uptravel while maintaining the protection for your stuff, which is great.

Anyway, thanks for coming to my ted talk. Anyone can hit me up with questions if this is helpful, or tell me to shut it
Click to expand...

ooooooooor

https://motorsports.74weld.com/product/4-gear-tacoma-4runner-portal/

Shellshock · Nov 18, 2024

bkhlrTaco's said: ↑

All you big tire guys. A guy I know with 32's was wondering would it have been easier to buy a Tundra and try to make it smaller vs. making a Tacoma bigger?

Click to expand...

putting 37s on a tundra is easy

bkhlrTaco's · Nov 18, 2024

Shellshock said: ↑

putting 37s on a tundra is easy
Click to expand...

LarryDangerfield · Nov 18, 2024

Shellshock said: ↑

good thing 2025 models will be hitting lots any day now!
Click to expand...

I was just having a weak moment that day I'm good now!

Shellshock · Nov 18, 2024

LarryDangerfield said: ↑

I was just having a weak moment that day I'm good now!
Click to expand...

BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT · Nov 18, 2024

Shellshock said: ↑

ooooooooor

https://motorsports.74weld.com/product/4-gear-tacoma-4runner-portal/
Click to expand...

I'm tempted but also nervous about the unsprung weight increase.

I mean also the 20k hole in my account but thats neither here nor there. If I was going to spend 20k on the truck it would be on a cage and links, honestly. Better travel and more efficient

Supr4Lo · Nov 18, 2024

BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT said: ↑

I'm tempted but also nervous about the unsprung weight increase.

I mean also the 20k hole in my account but thats neither here nor there. If I was going to spend 20k on the truck it would be on a cage and links, honestly. Better travel and more efficient
Click to expand...

How about links and portals?? I was infront of this guy and look back to see he's rolling over 3ft tall rocks like it's nothing. https://www.instagram.com/reel/C_GcpcMP95b/?igsh=MWhiamhqdm5sMWZoZw==

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