99 toyota tacoma no oil pressure after replacing oil pump seal

I've got a 99 toyota tacoma 2.7. Replaced the seal on the oil pump due to leaking put everything back together and haven't been able to get oil pressure back since then. Packed oil pump gears with Vaseline also. It had oil pressure fine before I took it down to do this job now the oil light won't go off no matter how long I turn it over without spark plugs and efi fuse. NEED HELP!!!!

 

Been watching this one and hoping someone could help with some suggestions. I did this job last year with 0 issues. Sorry but all I can think of is you put oil back in for sure? Could oil pressure sensor be bad, maybe test it? You got the pump installed right and crank pulley on the keyway correctly?

 

It's leaking internally, so a missing oring or something is askew, gotta tear it down again.

 

All I did was take the housing of the oil pump off and replaced the seal. I didn't go into the pan and I'm pretty sure the pump is put back correctly taking it really only goes one way. I guess I'll end uo dropping the pan and making sure the sump isn't leaking or stopped up.

 

I would double check the crank, make sure it is keyed on correctly.

 

While youre in there. Put a new o ring on your pickup tube.

 

has to be that the key not lined up on OP gears
meaning the crank spinning but OP is not(???)
i dunno
but after watching a vid, i think only can go on one way.....u line up the key and gear assmy slides on
hmmmmmm

 

found this....
stuck relief valve?????

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2-7-oil-pump-installation.517619/

 

Pulled the pan replaced the pressure relief valve which wasn't even stuck, replaced the oil pickup gasket and ofc the oil pan gasket, changed the oil. Still can't get pressure after all of that. I'm stumped. Like I mentioned I only took the oil pump off the truck to replace the gasket which was leaking. I also repacked and oil pumo gears with Vaseline upon trying to turn it over. Red little oil pressure light just stays on.

 

I've also pulled the oil pressure switch and used a pump the fill up the valley that feeds the oil filter also, which comes straight from the outlet on the oil pump. I can't get it to prime what so ever, I even put the plugs and efi fuse back in the truck and started it and let it run for lime 2 minutes, and the oil light still won't go off neither will oil come out of the oil filter

 

You have both electrical proof(oil pressure lite) and Mechanical proof (no oil present in filter)
In addition you inspected oil pickup tube when RR’ng gasket

everything points to a bad oil pump
Unknown how that can happen
Grrrrrrr

 

What I find on my old truck is any original part that I remove and can fail is is going to fail after I touch it.

 

FIXED. The other day I took the oil pump back off the truck and removed the gasket that I had replaced with an aftermarket one just to see if the truck would prime without it, taking that was the only thing that was different since I still used the oem pump that was on the truck. Boom started the truck and it primed immediately ofc it was leaking without the gasket but i turned it off right after it primed up. So I ordered an oem gasket for the oil pump and that fixed it right up. Turns out the aftermarket gasket was two times as thick as the oem one causing the pump internally not to mate up which was leading to the truck not priming. Thanks for yalls help!!!

 

The reason toyotas are quality is cus they have quality parts, it blows my mind when non enthusiasts of the brand make ther toyota into a gm vehicle with autozone shi, you can do that with parts that arent hard to work on but for something that is a pita just fix it once and forget it go oem, cry once.

 

Awsome persistence

 

Would never have suspected something like that. Awesome find, deserves a celebration beer.

 

Awesome job

thanks so much for updating thread!!

 

What all did you have to take off to get to the pump gasket, having to do it at least twice, Spencer? With your experience, you can probably tell me the path of least work needed to get at it. That might be in store for me in the near future.

As I type, I am at the point in my project where I cannot get the oil pump to prime on my 2000 2WD 2.4L 2RZ-FE, and I am thinking you might know something that might help me. Had the engine torn apart almost a year now, beginning when I found and removed bad oil sludge under the valve cover, and after that I desludged the timing chain area, then the oil pan, and on up into the bowels of the engine. Then, figuring I had gotten that far, I decided to overhaul the transmission and change the clutch since I had wanted to fix (what I long ago thought was) a leaking rear main seal. In hindsight, it would have been much better if I had yanked the engine and transmission out of the engine bay right at the beginning, but I kept getting sucked, slowly, into the huge overall job. Nobody in his right mind would ever have done what I did.

Before doing the first start procedure, I bought an Oil Pressure Test Kit from HF so I could monitor the oil pressure as I cranked the engine, without any fuel, to get an oil prime, and yes, I did pack the pump with Vasoline (well, maybe not completely packed, but a lot). During maybe 20 bumps of the starter, the oil pressure gauge never moved. Oh, one more thing, I filled the oil filter with fresh oil before starting this process.

Now, I am trying to think the problem through so the next step I take is the last, so I don't do more harm to the totally oil-less engine. I know the gauge is working because I remove it and used compressed air to operate it from the adapter end of the hose. Also, that open end of the hose did not show any evidence of oil ever touching it inside, another verification that oil pressure never happened.

I am thinking the problem is air trapped in the oil pickup tube from when I added the first oil fill to the engine after it was all put together again. I am wondering if I poured enough oil into the oil pressure switch hole so it drops by gravity to the pump, would it maybe pass through the pump and on into the pickup tube air cavity, whether it would somehow reduce the size of the air bubble?

I was trying to be gentle on the engine by hitting the ignition switch and holding it for short periods of time, like an average of 3 to 4 seconds, for maybe 20 times. At the end of each bump, there was an unnerving noise that my brother said made him think of the starter letting go of the flywheel. I could not tell you what it made me think was happening that caused that sound. Never did this before, cepting once on my 1994 Celica when I had rebuilt its engine after an overheat disaster, and I cannot even remember how we got it started, but it did run, and ran well.

And, I think finally, I watched a YouTube video of a fellow who used a home garden spray bottle leading to an adapter that fit into the oil pressure switch and the bottle had about a couple of quarts of oil, and he was saying that he was able to pump up pressure in his spray bottle, enough to push oil into the system such that it pushed oil to the topside (under the valve cover) and from there kinda throughout the engine. I am thinking that what he did also must have pushed oil from above maybe through the pump.

Any thoughts from anyone would be appreciated.

 

What finally got my 2000 oil primed was a "Pre-Lubrication" loaner tool from O'Reilly that some guy on the forum had used and recommended. That tool is normally used as a "pre-lube" for newly built engines, to test that all of the oil points within the engine are getting oil properly, before buttoning the engine up with valve cover and oil pan. The guy said that in my case, where the engine had already been buttoned up, and I was adding oil for the first time, the same tool would give my engine the oil prime I needed but had not been able to get from the Vasoline packed oil pump. I used two quarts in that tool, and after it had pushed both quarts into the engine, under pressure, it had a prime when I first turned the engine over.

NOTE 1: O'Reilly has an eastern US and a western US loaner tool vendor and they are different, so I had to ask them to get the tool the guy (from California) suggested because the Eastern US tool vendor (I live in NC) does not have that tool. I took a screen-shot the California guy posted to O'Reilly's and they were able to have the tool the following day.

That tool allows one to add up to 4 quarts of oil into its pressurized tank. The pressure added comes from your air compressor, and you can use your tire inflation gauge to measure something like 60 or 70 psi to set the tool to act like the oil pressure when your engine is running. The tool has a shut-off ball valve and then a length of hose that you connect to the same threaded hole your oil pressure switch came out of before you screwed in the tool. Once screwed in, open the ball valve and oil is pushed into your engine.

NOTE 2: the threaded hole in your block into which your oil pressure switch is screwed has a BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper) thread (1/8" - 28 BSPT), and the tool comes with an (1/8" - 27 NPT) (National Pipe Thread) fitting to screw into that hole, and it won't. Thus, you need to get an adapter (1/8" - 27 NPT to 1/8" - 28 BSPT) to use the tool. BSPT and NPT threads are both "tapered" threads, used normally when you need a positive seal against gas or fluid leaks. O'Reilly's does normally carry that adapter. I needed it to use the oil pressure gauge I bought for monitoring the oil pressure during my "first start," so I already had one when I got the pre-lube tool and then found that it needed the adapter I already had.

I believe the key notion you need to have in mind about getting an oil prime is that getting an oil prime is the same as getting a siphon prime, and getting a siphon prime means you must have a complete stream of whatever fluid is being transferred going all the way from source to sink before you let it go on its own. Fluids are incompressible, and that is what allows a siphon to exist. Introduce a bubble of air, and you lose the prime. Rebuild an engine and you lose the oil prime. Evidently, you lose the oil prime whenever you have to add oil to a (dry) new or rebuilt engine (or, as in the OPs case where he opened his oil pump to atmospheric air, which let the oil inside the pickup tube sink to its own level inside the pickup tube, leaving air from there up to the pump gears). Upon first adding oil to a new engine, as the oil fills up the oil pan, it eventually begins to immerse the oil pickup tube in oil, then goes higher and higher on the pickup tube. As that happens, trapped air inside the oil pickup tube gets compressed, to a degree. Of course the air is compressible, so as more incompressible oil is added, oil will move to rise inside the pickup tube as the air compresses, up to a point where the air pressure is equal to the "head" pressure created by the number of centimeters the oil has risen above the pickup tube screen, and that point is still below the oil pump gears.

Toyota (think Car Care Nut), somehow, thinks that its engines can prime themselves, with a little help from the Vaseline you pack into the oil pump. In my limited experience, either that doesn't always happen, or I was to timid to let the engine keep turning over long enough to generate the prime needed. Whatever the truth of that belief, I felt I needed help generating an oil-prime, and I turned to this nifty tool to get it. I frankly do not know exactly how the tool was able to generate an oil prime, but do know that equal pressure is sent up the oil channel (from the oil pressure switch hole) to the upper part of the engine as well as down in reversed flow through the oil pump gears and from there into the pickup tube. Perhaps enough pressure is generated, or enough oil flow is generated to blow the air bubble out of the pickup tube. A prime cannot be generated without eliminating the air bubble.

Why doesn't the oil prime get broken when you change your oil?

When you change your oil, your oil pan does not get totally emptied when you drain the old oil at the drain plug. Enough oil remains in the oil pan to leave the screened pickup tube end immersed in oil, so the oil prime never breaks since air cannot be introduced into the pickup tube.

 

So not sure if you're good to go?
Oil pressure? Running?