Traction Control Disabling

Has anyone heard of defaulting the traction control to be disabled from startup? I'm looking to do this for hunting season because it'll save time for the type of driving I'll be doing. I already know about holding the button, but those few seconds add up and I don't need to be affording it. I'm looking for answers, not opinions. Thanks in advance.

 

I have mine wired to a lighted ABS off switch (disables the VSC and traction control too) from air on board that matches the factory switches in those two rows. I had to use a 5 pin relay to get the lighting to work right but if you don't want that you can use a simple SPST switch that interrupts the one wire you need to. It's pretty simple and there's some detailed threads on it. If you don't want a switch you could just pull a fuse or unplug a sensor or something but I like being able to turn something on off so I don't have the lights on the dash. It's nice to be able to turn on/off while moving instead of holding it down when stopped. I haven't came across something exclusively for traction control because I wanted them all off but I'm sure there's something you could do.

 

That would be perfect for what need. I don't mind having it when I'm driving to work, it's just the dirt roads I need it off for. Would you be able to send me a picture so I can have an idea of what I'm looking for?

 

I don't have any pictures of the wire but there are some on other threads on here that I followed. How you do it is different for different models if I remember right, it was a few years ago.

 

Just wondering, why do you need it all the way off? I find that having it on, namely in the “AUTO LSD” mode in 2hi and “TRAC OFF” mode in 4hi. Those modes stop it from throttle-limiting but still let you have the faux-LSD function, which still helps a lot in finding traction on loose dirt and snow. Assuming you’re like me and don’t have locking diffs. Disabling the whole system is just rocking open diff(s) with no other help. Which may be detrimental given your mention of hunting season implies off-roading through the woods.

Personally the only time I ever want mine fully off is for doing dumb things like ripping donuts in the snow lol. Having it on has actually been quite helpful (read: saved my ass) a number of times. I do wanna get around to the wiring mod to let me keep it on in 4lo.

Again, not knocking it, just curious.

 

Here's an idea, if you have the e-locker on your Tacoma.

https://www.lceperformance.com/10-E-Locker-Manual-Cable-conversion-p/2051222.htm

This manually engages your locker. When the locker is engaged it shuts off ABS and all the traction control/stability control, etc.

I had my e-locker die in the engaged position. Was able to shift into 2hi and drive home some 90 miles on pavement. Worked fine, and might do what you want. I've been thinking of installing this rather than replacing the actuator with another electric one. I like the idea of being able to run the locker in 2hi.

 

@risethewake that's a fair question. I use dogs to hunt whitetail deer and the Traction Control (even LSD) has gotten me stuck in loose sand and dirt. If I get it the way that I'm wanting, then I wouldn't have that issue. Why it matters is so I can stay ahead of the dogs and deer, Especially on the border roads between the dog area and still hunt area.

 

@YF_Ryan mine doesn't have the locking diff, but I can manage the regular 2wd fine. It's just the traction control gets me caught in soft sand and dirt

 

Gotcha. Yeah, just figured it might be an easy way to bypass it all. Throw the lever and leave it til your hunting trip was over. No electric mods needed.

Good luck with your search!

 

Ah, I hear ya about not having time to long-press the button every time. But I still don’t think disabling it will help much. The throttle-limiting modes do suck for sand and snow cause it kills your momentum. But with that off(single short press of the button), the rest of the traction system has actually really impressed me over the years.

My concern with disabling it is not only will it happily one-wheel-peel away whenever it hits a slippery spot, but it’ll also disable the VSC. And that comes in clutch when you’re moving fast enough to need it. It’s kept me out of a ditch more than once.

But admittedly I’m not the one in your driver seat lol. Happy hunting, hope whatever ya decide to do works for ya.

 

@risethewake honestly it's literally one of those deals where you'd need to see it to understand lol I've been able to get through the same stuff with my old 2wd v6 ranger 5 speed, so the yota can definitely handle it

 

If you wire a toggle switch across the factory switch, you can just leave that on and the truck will think you're doing the "long press" whenever you start up without you having to actually think to do it. Turn off the toggle, and the system will operate like normal.

You could also do a fancier version with a capacitor, a resistor, and a small relay that would literally simulate the long press when you start up and "release" the button when the capacitor discharges. The toggle switch is a lot easier though.

 

FWIW, by far the most effective upgrade I ever did is tires. No idea what you’re running but figured it’s worth a mention.

My first few winter months with all-seasons made me start regretting buying the truck. Got stuck a few times. Upgraded to Grabber A/Ts and it was night and day. Never got stuck again. It just goes wherever I point the wheel. I’ll rock 2wd in deep snow till it skis on the rocker panels, then throw it in 4wd and get myself out. With decent technique and good treads, these trucks will indeed go anywhere.

 

@risethewake I'm still on stock sizes but I use the perelli scorpions A/T. They're great as far as my budget is concerned, but eventually I'll get separate mud tires for hunting and street tires for work

 

Would you be able to pull the fuse/relay, and then when you are done and headed home, put it back in?

 

@fatfurious2 so here's what I tried yesterday. I tried wiring the switch, but whenever I would start the truck the traction control would still be on every time, so I left everything factory. Then I pulled the 30 amp fuse for the abs that was under the hood, but after seeing the stability control and ABS light come on, I didn't want to risk throwing them out of calibration. The ONLY thing I've found to get my result is by going into an inspection mode with my autel and unplugging it before the inspection starts. It'll reset to normal after some time, but it's a temporary avenue for now.