Transfer case fluid

I've heard the same before. Most shops and dealers seem to just use bulk gear oil in diffs, transfer cases, and manual transmissions. Does it matter? Maybe, maybe not. But I tend to stick to what the manual says to use. The Ravenol meets the spec, is cheaper, and has better packaging than the Toyota fluid.

 

I used redline MT-LV when I did my fluid changes in March '24. Also changed the front and rear diffs too at the same time along with an engine oil change.
I probably will have some people here say it's fine and others blast me for this, but other than the Redline MT-LV I used all Walmart Supertech oils.
6 quarts of supertech full synthetic 75w90 for the front and rear at $10.62 each. $5 less/quart than Valvoline in the Caprisun bags
A quart of redline MT-LV is about $25 at Jeffy Bezos' big ole website.
So far I have no issue to speak of, everything runs and sounds as it always has.

 

I've been using SuperTech for a while now. I just did a 5.29 swap from ECGS, and they recommend Lucas 85W-140 non-synthetic for the diffs. Lucas isn't readily available around here and is more expensive, so I asked them about SuperTech. They said it was fine and more important to change the fluid regularly than what brand you use, and they stress using non-synthetic. But for the transfer case, I still use the Ravenol.

 

What is the deal with using conventional gear oil? is that just a thing for the 5.29 swap that the vendor says to do? I put synthetic in my stock rear, I didn't think it would make a difference.

I Have no opinion on Ravenol vs RedLine MV-LT. From what I see here both are well tested alternatives to the overpriced toyota oil.

SuperTech I'm finding is just fine. All the videos I seen where engines were ran with it and changed regularly have all been clean. I seen a guys test comparing Havoline Conventional 10w30 with Supertech 10w30 and a 10w30 synthetic racing oil in a test engine on a dyno. The Synthetics both were better than the conventional and the difference between the performance of the ST and the racing oil was marginal. The Supertech actually had a longer lasting wear additive package because race oil is changed for often in race cars. I been using ST in my engine too, after all oil is oil as long as it meets the spec and you changed it often enough.

 

You won't, and it will continue to...

 

I used the ECGS recommended Lucas stuff for two fluid changes (one break in and one after that) and ended up switching to the Valvoline

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90 at my last swap. I wanted to see if it would make any difference in the diff howl and it actually seems to have made it a little less noticeable for the last 10k miles or so.

 

I suspect so too. Though some on here are all about the brand product. I used to think that way but I'm older and wiser.

 

ECGS posted their reasoning on their FAQ -- they believe conventional "clings" better, and that's better for gears. It's been a while since I saw it, but it was either Eaton or Dana that recommended non-synthetic for their gears in their spec. I don't know that it makes much of a difference, but I'll save money and do it more often.

 

The Car Care Nut spoke to this... While we are looking down the road to 200k miles, dealers just need to get vehicles over the warranty line at the lowest cost possible.

This applies to 10k+ oil change intervals. Manufacturers market a lifetime cost of ownership savings to us with dealerships only needing to get us past the warranty period.

If you want to geek out, go watch Lake Speed talk oil on YouTube... and then use his www.SpeedDiagnostix.com oil testing service to see if how your vehicle is driven in your climate can extend the change intervals of your fluids.

GL-4, not GL-5, in Transfer Case because of yellow metals! Buried deep in this thread is a call-out with a video link to a teardown of a 2017 Taco TC. GL-5's additives has multiples more of what breaks down yellow metals.

Use Top-Tier fuel and/or PEA fuel additives AND do an Italian Tuneup every other week!... very high RPMs for a stretch to cleanout buildup. Fuel treatments based on PEA will brag about it on the bottle... Chevron created. Gumout also uses.

 

So, I just got my liter (litre?) of Ravenol 75W for my Transfer Case delivered by Amazon. It says right on the bottle that it is spec'd for Toyota.


Also, their website has a good explanation as to why Toyota (as of 2016 in 3rd gens) is using 75W rather than the older 75W90 oil used in the 1st and 2nd gens. https://www.blauparts.com/blog/what...acoma-transfer-case-fluid-specification-guide

In addition, although I haven't used it yet, I understand their bottle has an interesting tube attached to it so you don't need a pump to get it into the transfer case.

Cost me (as of Nov 2024) $45 ($29 for the oil and $16 for the shipping). The actual vendor is Blauparts.com and so I went to their website and they sell it direct for $35. ($20 plus $15 shipping). I ordered on a Sunday and it came on Wednesday.

DARN. Coulda saved $10--which is a LOT for a single quart (oops--Liter) of oil.
Next time I am going to Blauparts directly. Forget Amazon


I tried to get the Toyota brand 75W Transfer case gear oil from my local dealers . . . but they don't carry it even though some say they do---very strange. I even went on Amazon and ordered the Toyota brand from a dealer in Miami, Florida (I'm in Phoenix, AZ). After about a week got a message saying that the shipment was delayed in transit. Waited another week--same thing. Sooooo-I cancelled and got a refund--over $100 for ONE quart (liter). I bet that the real issue is that they don't really carry it either.

--Ravenol is Much cheaper than the $120/liter to get the Toyota branded liter of oil (IF YOU CAN EVEN GET IT). Ravenol is a premium brand that meets Toyota specs so I don't see why I would spend 3 times the price to (TRY TO) get from Toyota.

 

Next time get the full kit for transfer case + front and rear diffs fluid changes and save on the shipping costs. The little internal straw on the Ravenol bottles is amazing. You're going to be surprised at how well it works, or at least I was.

 

Yeah, I saw that--too late. Will probably do that next time, but I already got 6 quarts of REDLINE 75W85.

 

Very interesting. Good find. I'm going to cut and paste it here since links have a habit of disappearing on the internet and perhaps someone will find this thread when they search, as I did, "Why does my Toyota need 75W stupid expensive unobtainium transfer case fluid? Is this based on some Area 51 alien technology or is Toyota just being greedy?"

In the United States, Toyota started using transfer case fluid part number

$94 08885-81080 Toyota Genuine Transfer Case Gear Oil LF 75W 1 Litre 08885-81080

08885-81080 in the Toyota Tacoma 4WD models in 2016. The 75W is an updated formulation compared to the standard

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90 gear oil that was originally recommended in the 2015 and older Toyota Tacoma 4WD models. Toyota transfer case fluid part number 08885-81080 is a 75W viscosity fluid and does not specifically identify with any GL (gear lube) specification like the older recommended gear oils (e.g. GL-5).

The main reason Toyota chose to update to the 75W transfer case fluid was to improve the efficiency of the vehicle. By using a 75W transfer case fluid (vs the 75W-90), Toyota was able to improve the rolling resistance of the vehicle. This allows for less dynamic drag inside the transfer case resulting in improved fuel economy. The Toyota 75W transfer case fluid also offers better lubrication and flow to key areas of the transfer case when the transfer case is not given time to warm up. It also supplies better cold climate lubrication. These improved lubrication qualities offer improved transfer case longevity.

Some still choose to use 75W-90 gear oil even though the Toyota 75W transfer case fluid is specified. We feel this is illogical. The newer Toyota 75W transfer case fluid specification contains a more involved additive formulation, uses higher quality additives, and advanced fully synthetic base oils when compared to the popular entry-level 75W-90 gear oils. The high-quality level of the Toyota 75W transfer case fluid formulation achieves the benefits of instantaneous quick lubricating flow, as well as, keeping excellent shear stability in high load heavy heat driving conditions.​

 

While the 75W helps a little for fuel efficiency, it's the "just" GL-4 rating of the Ravenol oil I cared more about when I put it in my 2018 two weeks ago... because the Transfer Case has yellow metal in it [WHICH] GL-5 has much more yellow-metal-eating sulfer in it; Minute 31 in this vid shows the synchro in the Transfer Case: https://youtu.be/DlOm8_Tt81c?si=PV4yEoXmimK0LI3_

Issues with Ravenol bottle...
1) Getting the entire Liter out because the straw design requires bottle be completely inverted to drain.
2) Annoyingly hard to remove cap and close right again... to fill bottles with old oil to take for disposal.
3) Still need a fluid transfer pump to get oil into Front Diff and Manual Transmission.

 

I may have missed it, but anyone use the redline MT85 in the TC? I saw some said they used the MT-LV which is a 70w75 GL4, but the MT85 is a 75w85 GL4. Many people use 75w90 in the TC, so my thought is the 75w85 GL4 would be better. Is that dumb?

 

I would just spend a few bucks and get a liter of 75w for peace of mind. That said, it seems like people are using other fluids like you mention so it may not make any difference.

 

Im not an expert but im thinking that would be fine. Its GL4 so the yellow metals in the TC would be safe. The only thing is its a bit thicker at operating temp so that supposedly would cause more drag than the 75w.

 

I went with the MT-LV because Redline put it in writing that it’s comparative/compatible to the OEM fluid. I’m not sure they wrote that for the MT85.

 

I used MT-LV in mine at the 30k service. 6,000 miles in no issues. Ive shifted in to 4 wheel drive several times nothing feel different.
I believe Ravenol also states it meets Toyota spec too so either one for me. Id just go with the one thats easier for me to purchase.