A moderator with a Tacoma? (Not anymore, traded in.) {Come on over to new build thread}

Our boys hate rice. They just throw it on the floor then cry all night because they're hungry. They actually eat better if I serve them the rest of the meal and leave the rice off their plates.

They will devour most anything else, though. They're 18 months old and can eat a half a tray of lasagna between the two of them in one sitting.

 

Since lift doesn't clear tires, it just depends on how much trimming you want to do.

285/70/17 can usually fit with minor plastic trimming and a good alignment. I have a BMC and 295/70/17 almost clears. Every once in awhile they'll graze the firewall on a good hump.

People have cleared 35's by beating the firewall with a sledge.

 

I'll just leave this here:

 

Sitting in the ground blind, with my heated vest and gloves, taking @LarryDangerfield inspired nature photos.

 

Slow reception out here. Wanted to load this one too.

 

I think 275/70/17 is generally considered safe.

But, I think the amount of trimming to fit 285's is worth the effort, because it opens up a lot more tires options. It's generally just a little plastic.

No. But, there are a few aftermarket options that are easy enough to install. And, if you're not towing heavy or often, it's really not necessary.

There's a combination 4 prong flat and 7 prong round connector under the bumper.

 

32s easy.

Yes they have a transmission cooler

No, the plug is back up under it, but also off to the side. Goofy location. Not in the bumper though.

 

I know I'm biased, but here's my thoughts on 4Runners vs Tacomas:

They're both excellent vehicles, and I would base my choice on my personal needs. If having a bed is important to your lifestyle, stick with the Taco. If you prefer a little bit more comfort for rear passengers, and the cargo area in a 4Runner has enough space for you, it might be a good fit.

If you start really wanting to switch, take a good, long test drive in a 4Runner. Look in the cargo area and visualize how your stuff is going to fit, or not fit in there. Adjust the driver's seat to your comfort and then see how much room you'll actually have in the back seats.

 

They do not.

 

To clarify, I believe they might have a small cooler integrated into the radiator. But, anyone who does a lot of heavy towing tends to add a separate cooler.

 

Oh, gotcha. Nope. But, they don't seem to have transmission issues, either way. That A750 or whatever it is called, seems fairly indestructible.

And, if you do decide to add one, it seems like they are pretty simple to add and reasonably priced.

 

This is perfect, since most Mopar buyers rode the short bus to school anyway.

 

My level of knowledge is definitely not worth any money. Take everything I say with a grain of salt, because I'm biased and opinionated.

Needle bearing issue, yes. Seems weirdly hit or miss. Mine was bad from new. I literally noticed it within a few weeks of buying it. And then, when the weather warmed up, it seemed to go away. It returned again the next winter, and I decided to get the warranty replacement before I started messing with the suspension. They put a new differential in it in maybe March of 2020, and the issue has not returned, even in spite of having lifted it. Although, I went with a kind of modest lift so I actually think the CV angles are pretty safe on mine. I'm not sure if that really affects the needle bearing, but it seems like it could.

The frames can rust, but the issue is not nearly as significant as it is on the older Tacomas. So, it's definitely worth taking a good look underneath just to see if it's been maintained well.

They are extremely sensitive to out of balance tires. Some people claim that there is a flaw with the front suspension that causes the wobble, but I have always been able to get it cured with a good Tire balancing. The issue is most prominent around 60 mph.

The halogen headlights, which I believe were discontinued in 2020 get a lot of complaints. One common solution is to swap out the h11 bulbs for modified H9 bulbs. It is a cheap solution that seems to work for most people.

The rear hatch window tends to collect dust, which also ends up collecting inside of the hatch itself. It's good to run some water through it periodically, especially after being out on dusty trails. There are drain holes in it, but eventually they can clog causing the rear hatch to rust out. Side note on that: the rear hatch mechanism can fail. Mine stopped latching earlier this year. I ended up using a ratchet strap to keep it shut for a couple of weeks while I soaked the mechanism in PB Blaster and it eventually started working again. But, some preventative maintenance on that is worth doing.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head right now, but I will try to think of anything else and add it later.