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Broke plastic filter housing

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Tacosauro, Nov 3, 2024.

  1. Nov 25, 2024 at 8:17 PM
    #61
    t0p_d0g

    t0p_d0g 私はタコマが大好きです

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  2. Nov 25, 2024 at 10:07 PM
    #62
    Barsoom

    Barsoom Well-Known Member

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    Thank you! It is heavy. Much heavier than aluminum ones.
    It is a 1/2" square drive or a 21mm hex nut. Inside corners are rounded, so pressure is applied against the filter housing's flat bearing surfaces, not the corners of the filter housing.
     
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  3. Nov 26, 2024 at 2:27 AM
    #63
    apotter

    apotter Well-Known Member

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    Appreciate the words of wisdom!
    And to make sure I do this exactly right, can it be at any time and on any day of the week?!
    Only kidding - as a former mechanical engineer, if I had designed something as a general maintenance item that needed to removed so precisely, I would have been fired. :)
    cheers all!
     
  4. Nov 26, 2024 at 11:16 AM
    #64
    Stuck in VT

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  5. Nov 26, 2024 at 11:24 AM
    #65
    RichochetRabbit

    RichochetRabbit Ping Ping Ping

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    Without directly visually comparing, I would guess it is the "12-pt vs 6-pt" socket issue for bolts. At high torque there can be a difference with some bolts, but at lower torque (like would be for plastic) is it more up to the mechanic than the design. Still, both better than a damned side-strap.
     
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  6. Nov 26, 2024 at 11:27 AM
    #66
    Barsoom

    Barsoom Well-Known Member

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    Likelihood is the same. Both aluminum and steel are stronger than plastic housing. Neither Motivix tool nor this one engage the fins on the housing (parts that crack on over tightened housings)
    But steel wrench is a 1/2" square drive, and since it is steel, it less likely to crack if you use a ratchet without a socket. Aluminum filter wrenches are known to crack, if used directly with a square drive. And there are more longer 1/2" drivers than 3/8", if you need a breaker bar.
     
  7. Nov 26, 2024 at 11:37 AM
    #67
    TacoTime55

    TacoTime55 TT58

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    I bought this cap wrench separate from the MotiveX kit; can't remember why? (Probably because it was cheaper)

    It's best suggested to use hex drive socket, 26mm on top of the cap wrench to remove housing.

    I was worried when I had the plastic housing because it was always difficult to remove.

    Now that I have aluminum, it's not even an issue.

    upload_2024-11-26_14-29-19.png

    upload_2024-11-26_14-33-41.png
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2024
  8. Nov 26, 2024 at 6:28 PM
    #68
    soundman98

    soundman98 Well-Known Member

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    i really don't think they're all that different.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    the flats are a little more dramatically shaped, and it's a heavier duty material, for a cheaper price. but both adapters are far stronger than the filter assembly material. that said, the motivx has always been a little 'extra' being a 2-piece design, where a single piece design is more than strong enough.
     
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  9. Nov 26, 2024 at 6:47 PM
    #69
    Barsoom

    Barsoom Well-Known Member

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    If I have a choice between steel or aluminum tools, I always go for the steel ones.
     
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  10. Nov 27, 2024 at 5:41 AM
    #70
    Taco_mike73

    Taco_mike73 Well-Known Member

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    I purchased the original motivX design when I first got my truck on recommendation from this forum. It was at the time what we thought here was the best. I had no issue with it doing my first oil change at 4500 miles with it. After I was at the dealer for the 10,000 mile service and wanted to change it at 15,000 which Toyotacare doesn't do for you the filter was too tight. I couldn't get it off and felt like I was going to break the tabs. At that point the new version was out, so I ordered that and got a 2 ft breaker bar to change the filter. The only thing I dislike about the new one is it sticks to the plastic cap when you take it off the truck and you have to wiggle it free becase the thing fits so snug. I just switched to that metal cap so I'll see if it does with that this spring.
     
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  11. Nov 27, 2024 at 6:43 AM
    #71
    TacoTime55

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    I had the same problem.

    Did my first oil change with the Aluminum Housing and I did not experience the same sequence of events as with the plastic.

    EDIT: Although, the aluminum housing did not easily come off, it was easier to remove than the plastic one.

    Of course, I did not gorilla-tighten it either! lol

    I believe the housing expands...and that's why the plastic was harder to remove even after I tightened it prior to transitioning to Aluminum.

    I'll be doing an oil change here soon and I don't expect any issues.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2024
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  12. Nov 27, 2024 at 6:58 AM
    #72
    RichochetRabbit

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    That vacuum effect is annoying but makes me feel safer. One of the main reason bolts and plates break apart is loose connections ... too much wiggle and things skare apart. If the Motivx is gripping too hard to become wiggly then there is less chance of it moving and cracking the housing.
     
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  13. Nov 27, 2024 at 2:48 PM
    #73
    soundman98

    soundman98 Well-Known Member

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    i've always found the filter easier to remove once i slightly tighten it first. seems to break some of the friction in the components. it's never 'easy', and always on far harder than i install it, but it moves more consistently that way.
     
  14. Nov 27, 2024 at 4:23 PM
    #74
    Barsoom

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    I just finished oil changes on my Taco and minivan.
    While Taco's oil filter housing was out, I took measurments of the plastic and aluminum housings and center tubes. Both have original tubes.

    On the inside of the tube:
    Plastic 51.75mm tall
    Aluminum 51.83mm tall
    Difference of 0.08mm. Manufacturing varience

    On the outside of the tube:
    Plastic tube was 75.29mm tall, from the outmost edge of the tube to the bottom.
    Aluminum tube on the outside to the bottom was 75.97mm.
    Difference of 0.68mm. Plastic can was thicker.
    Oil filter was taller than either tube.

    In the nutshell, oil filter housings are interchangable. Do not need to swap the center tube.

    PS. Steel tool worked great to take off the housing. I used the 1/2 square hole and extension to reach thru the TRD crash plate.
    PPS added Fumoto valve with a nipple. Looking forward to cleaner oil changes. Old oil was hot and came out with super velocity. Splashed everywhere.
    Managed to put in and tighten the Fumoto valve without taking the crash plate off.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2024
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  15. Nov 27, 2024 at 5:08 PM
    #75
    Vlady

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    Last edited: Nov 27, 2024
  16. Nov 27, 2024 at 5:30 PM
    #76
    TacoTime55

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    ^^^^

    I believe the composite expands and becomes harder to remove.

    Only reason I say this is, I reinstalled composite (when I realized I bought the wrong size paper filter) w/the same old filter hand-tightened.

    When I did the next oil change, I found it somewhat difficult to remove it until using a breaker bar for leverage.

    So, if this thing gets torqued even more so than my hand-tight method, it would lead me to believe the composite expands making it harder to remove.
     
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  17. Nov 27, 2024 at 5:43 PM
    #77
    Vlady

    Vlady Well-Known Member

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    It is all about to lube the o-ring.
     
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  18. Nov 27, 2024 at 5:45 PM
    #78
    TacoTime55

    TacoTime55 TT58

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    Agreed.

    Install instructions say to lube both o-rings.
     
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  19. Nov 27, 2024 at 6:24 PM
    #79
    Vlady

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    Aluminum expands as well
     
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  20. Nov 27, 2024 at 6:57 PM
    #80
    TacoTime55

    TacoTime55 TT58

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    I'm sure it does...but not at the same rate as composite.

    Someone please tell us, aluminum doesn't expand as actively as composite! lol
     
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