Comprehensive 4.0 1GR Cooling System Refresh - OEM Part Numbers & Quantities

Edit 12/29/2024: Just finished after many sidetracks, side quests and delays - everything below is accurate for my particular truck. I'm not privvy to all the various changes over the years, but this should be largely accurate for most/all '05-'15 4.0 trucks.

It's taken a smidge of time and effort to compile this list, so I thought maybe I'd A) share for future reference and others who want to go down this rabbit hole now that these trucks are starting to get up there in years and miles, and B) get more sets of eyes on it to double check, since I've seen more than a few cases of people getting the wrong parts from dealers despite supplying all the vehicle information and verifying the application. I also talk too much - so bear with me.

Some of the big items like the radiator and water pump aren't in much question, but much of the small stuff isn't 100% clear based on the parts diagrams I sourced a lot of stuff from. I'm trying to basically hit every seal, soft part, and mission critical item. There's other stuff I am doing as well while I am in there like getting the injectors cleaned, replacing VC gaskets, plugs, etc, but want to keep this focused somewhat.

Backstory: I'm working on a bumper to bumper PM package for my new-to-me truck. It's got almost 200k on the clock, but has been pretty well maintained - not obsessively, but it's in great shape and everything works just fine. The coolant has been flushed every 50k, but that's all I am seeing in the records. There's a very good chance I'm going to enroll in a pretty intense school program for a couple years, quite a ways from home, probably with no garage or anything - the goal is to have a no excuses, dead reliable vehicle I don't need to think or worry about. Ounce of prevention, and all that.

Finally, I'm fully aware a lot of these parts can be had aftermarket for less to significantly less than Toyota, but the cooling system is absolutely a critical system and I don't want to find out the hard way that the part that cost 30% less also lasts 30% as long. Doing the work myself, I'm sourcing under MSRP to begin with, saving shop markup and also labor; I don't feel guilty springing for genuine parts.

The particulars for my specific application: 9/2011 build MY12, 4.0/6MT/4x4, Texas built.

The 'system' so to speak:

• Water Pump -
  $144 16100-09471 Toyota Genuine Water Pump Assembly
  16100-09471 <--- Should come with the MLS pump gasket and two seals/o-rings for the thermostat housing as well
• Fan Clutch - 16210-0P010
• Belt -
  $57 90916-A2001 Alternator and Fan Belt
  90916-A2001
  
• Idler Pulley #1 - 16603-0P030
  
• Idler Pulley #2 - 16604-0P011 (QTY 2)
  
• Tensioner w/ Pulley - 16620-31013
  
• Radiator - 16410-0P040
• Radiator Cap - 16401-30020
• Thermostat -
  $50 16031-0P010 TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Inlet Sub-Assy, Wate (16031-0P010)
  16031-0P010 <--- Mine came with the o-ring/gasket below; sounds like not everyone does?
• Thermostat Gasket - 16325-31010
• Upper Radiator Hose - 16571-0P020
• Lower Radiator Hose - 16572-0P020
• Bypass Hose #1 - 16261-AD010
  
• Bypass Hose #2 - 16264-AD010
• Bypass Hose #3 - 16267-0P030
  
• Bypass Hose #4 - 16281-0P010
  
• Bypass Hose #5 - 16282-0P010
  
• Rear Water Outlet Housing Gasket - 16341-AD010 (QTY 2)
• Coolant Pipe O-Ring -
  $11 96761-35031 , Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring
  96761-35031 (QTY 2) <--- Note that water pump should come with one, so only one more is needed if you are also doing the pump
• Heater Hose Assy #1 - 87209-04020
• Heater Hose Assy #2 - 87209-04040
• Super Long Life Coolant - 00272-SLLC2 (2 gallons)
• Sealant (aka Form In Place Gasket, "FIPG") -
  $21 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube
  00295-00103

 

What about the hoses that go to the heating system??

 

I see you have two heater hoses. Do you have an oil cooler?

 

I am pretty sure those two P/N cover them - one appears to be the "mass" of hoses, sort of a sub assembly, and the other is just a molded elbow basically.

Good point, thanks - I did not look for oil cooler lines yet. I was getting my 3G prepped to sell and I've not spent a ton of time under this one yet, will have to check that out.

 

I recently did most of this work, if anyone cares they'll find that the Asin kits come with the o-rings and gaskets for installing the thermostat and waterpump. I'd recommend buying the double row Nachi bearing a pressing it into the tensioner pully as opposed to swapping the entire tensioner unless the miles are way up there.

 

How did this end up going OP? You end up having the right parts? Anything missing? My '06 is going to be due for some cooling work before long (213k in) and this feels like a good place to start for parts

 

It's still going. Disassembly is pretty much all done, hoping to have it wrapped up this month, working on it as I have time but have been making good progress lately (also doing this same thing to steering/suspension and clutch; turned in to a big all-at-once "while I'm in there/will be easier with all this other stuff out of the way" ordeal).

 

Can confirm. You don’t get the gasket with the Tstat or at least I didn’t. Had to order separately.

 

I'll be doing most of this job in January. I am not tearing apart the rear water outlet (have these ever failed?).

I already have most of the parts that I need, and I ordered most of the hoses through Toyota Parts Overstock in Lakeland, FL. (quick shipping and low prices). I will be upgrading from a Denso radiator to a

$499 CSF 7092 2016+ 3.5L and 2.7L 05-15 4.0L and 2.7L fits Toyota™ Tacoma Radiator

CSF 7092. I went with an Asin

$81 FCT-072 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch - Compatible with Select Toyota 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, Tundra

FCT-072 fan clutch, and saved ~$30. I will be replacing the bearings and not the pulleys.

My Toyota thermostat (

$50 16031-0P010 TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Inlet Sub-Assy, Wate (16031-0P010)

16031-0P010) included the gasket, and the Toyota coolant pump included the two (

$11 96761-35031 , Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring

96761-35031 and 96761-16325) O-rings. Now, I have spares.

The part numbers for the oil cooler hosses are: 15777-31010, and 15778-31010.

While I have everything pulled apart, I will also be replacing the two (

$11 15678-31010 Oil Control Valve Filter

15678-31010) VVT-I screens

 

I was having this debate, but as I was waffling, YouTuber Faye Hadley just had hers fail in a short she posted, so I decided that was a sign to move forward with it. According to her, the first step in the official Toyota procedure is "remove engine."

I do have the transmission out to do the clutch and RMS, it's a lot easier to get to from underneath. Ok, well - easier to get to for the fasteners; wound up prying from the top, but I have enough room to stand in the bay now, and also have the intake off and fuel rails loose with the injectors out for rebuild. It could be done from the top but if I did it over again I'd go ahead and pop the lower intake out to wrestle the crossover tube out by itself first rather than trying to pry the crossover off with the tube/o-ring in place. That, or try and pop the studs off so the crossover could be manipulated more. The o-ring does NOT want to let go, so be ready for a battle there (and my rig is a super clean Colorado highway queen).

 

what is a rear water outlet?
Is this for 4.0L?

Google turns up this pic, same as higher up in thread



I thought the front outlet (elbow macaroni?) is metal,
pipe might be metal. Hopefully. Not sure.
Maybe rear elbow is metal?

At any rate, with enough miles and age, it is ideal to replace things like radiator hoses and I am looking at doing the same.

Only thing that's stopped me so far is not wanting to deal with the complication of figuring out the parts, or unintentionally ordering duplicates of one and none of another when dealing with the confusion.

Unfortunately it does not seem generally figured out by sellers.

Versus compared to the Audi world,
being it is common sense to do things like this
you can search kits for an Audi, online, and find entire kits already figured out, at least on popular models. Whether genuine or aftermarket. As that makes more sense than single component replacement.
Where upgrade to metal is common, as well as "if it's rubber or plastic with age and miles, and replaceable, replace it."

If I'm changing the radiator, which I will be, might as well do more. Easier before it breaks, than being stranded.

 

Yep, aluminum housing at the very rear that directs coolant from both the heads to the thermostat housing through a tube that runs in between the heads (also holds the coolant temp sensor and feeds the heater core).

 

Thank you for doing this, already a gold mine of information.

 

Thanks for the heads up on Faye's video. For those of you, like me, that were not aware of it, here it is;
https://youtube.com/shorts/mlqVGH3DlTE?si=5iTahjO8eCmI93ZU

For $28, yeah, go ahead an get the gaskets. However, in other video's from Faye she has recently added the TRD supercharger to her vehicle. Also, she does not have the oil cooler on her 4.0. Both of these things could lead to her cooling system being under more stress than my highway queen. Judging from the dates on her videos, she ran her truck for almost a year after doing the cooling system upgrade before the gaskets at the rear of the engine let go. I am doing the work on my truck before anything fails, and getting to the rear of the engine will be a huge PITA. I am, therefore, not going to bother.

 

I would probably skip them as well, were I not in the position where I'm practically down to the long block.

Only sketchiness on mine was the shop that had maintained this for the PO used the wrong coolant for the last two 50k changes, so I wanted to replace everything I could touch within reason as I'm trying to do as close to a "no excuses" refresh as I may be going back to school next year and there will be a period where something like that would either be a hell of a lot more than $28 and a few hours of my time to address; or I'd be dicking around with it in a parking lot or the street cursing myself for skipping it..

 

And today, Faye posted this;

https://youtube.com/shorts/2a4_tzltJhs?si=Ih9GDKOI9Xot6aPh

So, you're good - if you have tiny arms.

 

Just did a cooling system refresh, and noticed one hose I missed. Anyone know the full part number for this one for a 2010 Tacoma V6? Goes from back of the water outlet towards the rear of the truck and then 90 degree turn down towards the top of the block. Kinda hard to see even with the intake off. Thanks.

 

Finally starting to put parts back on...

Looks like that's #2, which I have down as 16264-AD010.

I've done most of my part number sleuthing via PartSouq.com - but I think I actually got that one via Faye's video where she gives the part numbers for everything:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMOChNpTOL4

EDIT: Posted with the correct video link..

 

As a follow up to my experience and Faye's videos;

Note that Faye Hadley installed a CSF radiator in her Taco, and six months later blew the gaskets that she mentioned in the videos above.

In preparation for installing a CSF radiator in my Taco, I looked closely at the CSF radiator that I recently purchased. I found that one of the ears on the cap was slightly bent, so I bent it back and checked the pressure to see that it still worked. I was happy to see that it held pressure, but surprised to see that it opened at 20 PSI (1.4 Bar).


I checked this against the FSM, and it specifies that it should open at 13.5 to 17.8 PSI (~0.9 to 1.2 bar). The OEM Tacoma radiator cap (Nippon Denso) is clearly marked 1.1 bar.


Now I believe that I can guess why Faye, after installing a CSF Radiator, blew the gaskets as documented here
https://youtu.be/mlqVGH3DlTE

She over pressurized her cooling system. The gaskets were not up to the increased pressure, and they left the chat.

I went to Advance Auto and bought a Car Quest 10233 cap to replace the CSF.

CSF Makes a radiator cap (CSF 4503) that is a 15 PSI (1.1 bar) cap. Stant (and a bunch of other vendors) sell a 10233 cap that also fits and meets this spec.

Warning to anyone else contemplating upgrading to a CSF radiator; CHECK THE RADIATOR CAP PRESSURE RATING.

In another thread someone posited that the TRD radiator cap runs at a higher pressure. It does, but not as high as the one that CSF includes with the 7092 radiator. The excerpt below is from the Tacoma FSM;


The TRD radiator cap opens at 1.3 bar (18.5 PSI), but the CSF cap is higher at 1.4 bar (20 PSI)