Shake & Shimmy when Rolling

Symptoms: When rolling to a stop from about 40 MPH I get this shaking/shimmy through the truck. Truck now has 195k miles on the odometer.

Shifting the transmission to neutral makes no difference. I rotated the tires front to back and replaced the front Tundra brake pads. No difference. The tires haven't worn excessive or anything, so I think the front alignment is good. I still have 3/16" tread on the General Grabber A/T tires.

I think I have the dreaded worn u-joints problem. What criteria to select new u-joints? Should I get greaseable or not? I'd rather have US made, but that's getting more difficult.
Should I replace both ends of the rear drive driveshaft? Reckon the front driveshaft needs attention?

Who has experience in this?

 

This morning I crawled under the truck to check things out. All the ball joints look good, I cannot move anything around. That's my initial assessment, there could still be some problems there.

However, the pillar block that supports the center of the 2-piece rear driveshaft is really loose. I can shake the driveshaft around 1/4" or so within the block. So I am going to begin by replacing it.

Note: I'm looking in RockAuto and see lots of choices. How does one determine which is correct for this truck?

While under there I'll grease all the u-joints.

 

1/4" is fairly normal. If it was more, I'd be concerned, but I just wanted to set your expectations for the new one correctly. If the carrier bearing hasn't been replaced, it's a good first step, but I wouldn't expect 1/4" of play to be the cause of your issues.

As far as which CB to get- you want either OEM or Spicer (generally considered to be OEM supplier for that part). The off brand models tend to fail within a few years.

Be aware that there is also a specific procedure for torquing the CB on, that involves over torquing to seat the bearing, then backing the nut off, and then retorquing to spec. There is a sticky thread specifically for this, but it also just follows the FSM, which you can also find in a sticky thread.

I'd actually consider the condition of your rear leaf springs as to the cause of the vibration. If they are original @ 195k they are likely causing decel axle wrap. If they are flat, or inversed they should be replaced. When was the last time you replaced the rear shocks?

 

I crawled down there and checked again. It seems the center bearing is actually pretty tight. But the rear driveshaft can wiggle around within it, seems extreme. I'll review that sticky thread for the specifics of installing.
I'm the original owner of the truck and the leafs are original. They seem to be flat and a little inversed; I suppose they should be replaced. What's my best option for new leafs? I probably need new leaf springs whether it fixes the shimmy or not.
The shocks front & back are Bilstein 5100 installed July 2015 at 124k miles.

Note: Holy crap! There's lots of options of leaf springs. How does one decide what's best?

I've posted a picture of the rear spring. I was unsuccessful in posting a video of the wiggle of the back half of the driveshaft wiggling.

The thing about it is, I get this shimmy when coasting to a stop whether the truck is in gear or not. While accelerating or just driving at any speed it's smooth.

 

I had similar issues with my 1st gen with 295K (all factory)...bit the bullet and replaced the carrier bearing and u-joints on the far ends of the drive shaft assembly. Replacing the u-joints is "easy" - I can do it laying on the ground under the truck without pulling the driveshaft. I used Spicer. I think I purchased everything from RockAuto, but perhaps I found a better deal at another online dealer? - it's been a while and I can't remember, but receipts are available ;-)
Good luck!

 

What is my best option for rear springs? This truck is daily driven, mostly on asphalt. Sometimes on gravel/dirt roads and occasionally over a field or into the wood. I'm not going to any offroad tracks or anything like that.
You'll probably recognize this as Rockauto website.

 

Most folks here suggest General Springs for OEM like replacement packs. I can say from experience that the huskey springs are really stiff compared to OEM.

 

I see General Springs is cost competitive to the Rockauto prices. Would their heavy-duty spring make the ride noticeably rougher?

https://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf-springs/toyota/tacoma/2001-2004-toyota-tacoma-leaf-springs/

 

I would avoid HD springs unless you have a camper shell or regularly tow/carry weight.

 

shaking when stopping typically warped front rotors

OP said new front pads installed
seeing how OP has Tundra brake swap prob knows this

 

Good to know. I have no camper shell and only occasionally tow or carry heavy weight.

Thank you!

 

I admit I didn't check rotor warp when I installed the new brake pads. I figured that they are larger than stock, and I changed the pads before totally worn out, the rotors should be okay. They had no noticeable hot spots and not much wear.

The shaking I'm experiencing makes no difference whether I apply the brakes or coast with the transmission in neutral. It's always when I'm coasting and applying the brakes makes no difference.

Perhaps I should check the rotors for warp, but I'm thinking they're okay.

 

A firm T in SC^^^^

you know
Recently I read a thread about warped, newly replace rear drums causing this shake.

Other members said that some parts warehouses store drums vertical, after time on shelf, they warp
I didn’t lash out…..but I was thinking complete BS

the OP took new rear rotors back and got replacements (bc were brand new AM)

to my amazement
(so glad I didn’t speak my feeble mind)
OP’s shaking went away!
Cra Cra

 

Think this was thread
GL
Keep everyone updated!


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...bad-shake-while-braking.799440/#post-28647295

 

This afternoon I did some disassembly and inspection. The LH rotor has .001 warp, and the RH has .0015 warp. Neither give me concern.

I removed the driveshaft and found this flange loose. The nut was staked but wasn't tight, so the flange was flopping around on the splined shaft. The center carrier bearing is okay, and the u-joints all seem tight. For now, I'm going to tighten everything back up, lube everything, and see how it runs. If/when the problem reoccurs, I'll order another driveshaft assy.



Update: I took it for a ride and everything is tight. Coasting is now smooth and even acceleration is smoother than it was. I'll have to keep an eye on this flange, as it came loose once and may come loose again. If it doesn't hold the next step is probably to replace the front half of the driveshaft and a new flange. But I'll bet it'll hold for a long time.