Factory Heated Seats Failure

The connector that I used just came from Amazon. It's a waterproof connector with much heavier wires than the OEM. I never attempted to soldier it myself. I have a buddy that is an electronics guy desoldier and soldier it for me.

 

Yeah, I got the one shared a few pages back. Luckily I was able to find the heated seat amp module for $76 shipped. Hopefully, the order goes through. I am excited to have heat again..its been 2 years hah!

 

The problem is the poor quality connection. I just bought a new tundra. Going to check out the connection on it today and see if it's the same. At least this one is only a lease so I'll probably give it back before it quits! Haha

 

Finally got my new heated seat amp today. Just got it back in the truck after doing the upgraded connector and we are back! A toasty seat again!

 

Hey can you send me a full parts list and where you found it that price? I’m tired of cold seats.

 

These are two parts I used. I ordered the heater amp thingy during their sale. It looks to be 100$ right now.

https://autoparts.sparkstoyota.com/products/product/control-sub-assy-se-875010c020

$15 QOFOWIN 5 Pin Connector Waterproof,5Pin Way Car Electrical Connector,with Wire 16 AWG Marine for Car,Truck,Boat,Motorcycle and Other Wire Connections. (5pairs)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085HNSVY4?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

Dealers are trash and give you the run around. I ordered the part from the diagram on https://autoparts.toyota.com that ships from the dealer. Even though the diagram says one thing, the VIN actually determines the part number, which you can't put in online. So, the wrong part was shipped. Frustrated, I went to the dealer and they gave me the speech that a tech needs to examine the vehicle. I told them the part that was faulty, and the TSB 0130 18 where toyota admitted it's problem. The dealer danced around whether or not it would be replaced without charge, so I said forget it. I'll walk over to the parts dept and order the part via my VIN, which is apparently only a service the in person visit can do. I get the part tomorrow, at a charge of $200, but with labor at $150 an hour to dance around the merry go round, i'll accept the parts charge. I will be submitting to the toyota corp and to the safety commission to push for a recall.

 

Update: I now have the correct sized part in hand. The issue is the male connector / wiring harness is also charred and needs a PROPER fix. If using the same type of connection, you get the same results. So I bypassed that connector and made my own, using a heavier gauge wire and thicker connector. It works wonderfully and I feel safer knowing there is a much heavier duty connection now. I shaved off the power receptacle slot that was melted, which made room for my own connector to fit in.

r.

 

Anyone has a trick on how to remove the white plastic from the Am ECU chip board?

 

Is this still a thing? This thread goes way back. Did Toyota ever address this or is my '23 a potential victim? I put my butt heater down to level 2 or 1 soon as it gets warmed up thinking the less amps would be better for the faulty connector.

 

You better cover up that bare metal connecter asap

 

I used some like wire cutters and just kept snipping away at the plastic until I could pull it off. Probably an easier way but it got the job done.

 

Had my seat fixed today, I was able to get the white plastic connector off the board with a lot of patience. I used a Yellow Olfa utility knife and a ligther to heat the blade and melted the plastic between the pins. Did not want to take the chance to pry it off in fear of ruining the circuit board. The electrical guy who did the soldering used metal rings (like the one in post # 511) that he clamped on both ends of each wire. Then he slid that on the pins of the circuit board and he put a few drops of weld to fix it together. He said that the reason these fail is that that type of connection is not good for heat. As the wires get hot, the connection becomes loose (by the metal expanding over time) and it "arcs" which is the reason it burn & melt the plastic. Probably Toyota are aware of this and they know that it will fail and wont work anymore but don't want to issue a recall since it will cost them a fortune to replace every heating pad in every affected vehicles.

 

Once I left the shop I immediately turn the knob on to the max setting and it only took about 10 seconds to feel the heat and it really got hot fast...... very satisfied it only cost me 100$ (1 hour labor and parts) this not counting my time to remove the white plastic of the circuit board. I ended up using a yellow Olfa utility knife and a lighter to heat the blade then I melted the plastic away bit by bit and about 1 hour later boom the plastic was gone.

 

I used a dremel tool and ground the plastic away with precision and ease.

 

Yet another victim of the ECU failure this past week. 2014 TRD Sport.

Thanks for all the info here - getting the soldering iron hot as we speak.

 

I wonder as well. Some of the posts in the last 2-3 years are on very late 2nd gens and early 3rd gens, so it takes a while to fail. I have a 2021. Out pf paranoia I do similar to you. Rarely turn it on at level 3. Start at 2 for 5 minutes then down to level one of even off. And I won't leave it on for more than ~15 minutes at a time.

Even before I got my Tacoma I was wary of heated seats. My wife has a 2013 Odyssey. She always had her seat at a 3 on cold days. And her passengers usually did too. Both sides failed shortly after the warranty expired!

 

Same here. I watch this thread for any new developments. On my 2020 I'm mindful of usage and settings to try and prolong functioning as long as possible.

 

Knew I wasn’t the only one! Seat heater mizers