Long Travel BS Thread

Actually Properly designed tooling and parts will yield uniform thickness in press formed sheetmetal.

.063 (.064) is an alum thickness. Jd inners are steel, but that's besides the point. Im just trying my best to be a "knowitall"

I wish I would have kept all the material i cut off my truck to weigh it.

I feel pretty confident it's not much heavier and the additional weight is far less important than the strength increase and benefit of accessory options like larger coolers and lights

 

Yeah, I think I wasn't 100% clear with my question either My lowers are pushed all the way forward and JD Fab trimmed as much of my core as possible, but the headlights are definitely a limiting factor. I'll have to make a trip up to JD here soon and chat with Jesse about this and see if this is the best way to go with getting full use of up travel with my kit. Need to chat with him about my traction bar project anyways.

-Brian

 

I know I weighed my front section after cutting it off. I should dig and see if I can find that info again. I’m a freak when it comes to weight and distribution. But that’s coming from the car world. I even went as far as stripping my entire chassis/engine harness of unnecessary BS. I think it was like 60lbs worth of wire and modules if I recall correctly.

I think the core support is honestly a great thing that you’re doing. But I was honestly just curious more than anything. (Wife’s truck is next) and I’m trying to make some decisions on that as far as putting my old JD inners on that or not.

 

Those who have drilled out their spindles to 5/8” for Heims.
Just a cordless drill & send it?
I don’t want to drill the hole wonky with the taper from the OEM ball joints

 

I think he is talking about heim toe rod ends.

 

Well fuck. Talk about a reading comprehension fail….dirty delete inbound

 

Get a 5/8 taper ream. Much easier and cleaner hole, cordless drill is fine.

 

This would be a pretty cool addition

 

We all do it. Or at least I catch myself doing it as well. But your info is good to have too. I have considered 5/8" studs but can it be done to my wheels and still have room for lug nuts?

 

I did it to my pro comp wheels I had previously but those had plenty of meat left after drilling them out. Obviously it’s gonna vary from wheel to wheel. Had to get the deep lug nuts though. 1 inch socket did fit to tighten up acorn nuts.

 

I could’ve been more clear lol, but yeah I was thinking outer tie rod.
5/8” wheel studs would be good too.

 

Same travel and gets rid of the stock coil bucket for $1500 less. Plus the new shock tower is set up for the bypass already and also provides a perfect spot to mount the bump to bump off the upper arm.
https://lsksuspension.com/product/05-tacoma-2wd-race-kit/

 

Dtf "claims" 18 inches?
Only thing I can think of is that the front would out perform the rear at this point

 

Thas not a horrible problem to have. Though I would say mine is pretty even between the LSK kit and the DMZ kit. I'm strapped at 17 inches up front but it did cycle 18.25 metal to metal. Thats real world measured at the hub measurements....i'm not inflating them at all. The last 3/4 of an inch of droop on the LSK gets some pretty noticable bump steer so I strapped it before it gets there. But the truck really does behave itself out in the big whoops at speed.

 

Says fits 35s with minimal trimming. What is ‘minimal?’ Or am I thinking that most of that 18” is in down travel with the lift spindle in the kit?
I’m on 34s with the 2.25 kit and still rub my oem inner fenders at bump. Sheesh.

 

Got everything needed minus some bump cans. Removing gas tank to get frame boxing started this weekend. Putting shock mounts on cage tonight.

 

Am I ok to run one singular bypass shock in the back with deaver leaf unders or do I need to also have a smooth body shock?

 

Following up on that question. I had a mid travel 03 Tacoma that was tubbed for 35s at full bump, if I were to stay mid travel on my taco and tub again for 35s would I have tubbed way too much when it was time to swap over to a 3.5 over kit?

 

you only need the bypass shocks

 

Taking your time sucks. Every step of this project takes days of labor to make it perfect.
Overhaulin builds a car in an hour wtf