Pinion Seal replacement x2 No good

2003 4x4 Base 2.7L. 190,000. Frame replacement. Weymouth, MA

I replaced the pinion seal (90311-44007) and when taping it in the outer edges rubber coating in a couple areas bulged up a bit, well it leaked. The flange had a mark where the seal was but you couldn't feel it with a fingernail.
I decided to buy a new seal and a new flange (41204-35080). I decided to have a local shop install it. They installed the seal and said the flange did not fit, but cleaned up the old one that they thought was fine. But it still leaks.
I'm going to go back to the shop, but they way things are these days I can see them telling me that there is nothing they can do, and refusing to ever work on the truck again.

So what else can it be? Also the back of the diff, is rusting thru. I patched it with JB Weld has been holding up but probably won't last. I'd swap out the rear diff, if I could find one.

 

Seal #3 today and new flange by local mechanic, no good. This truck is now going useless because Toyotas shit quality metal.

 

You’re blaming Toyota for poor quality metal? I haven’t seen other manufacturers that has good quality metal unless it’s aluminum. Any metal will rust off your in the rust belt.

 

Yes I am, I had till recently a 1969 VW Bus that held up far better. Never seen a US Car's differential fail due to rust.

 

how’s the frame?

 

When I see repeated seal replacements on a pinion, its either due to rust or due to the pinion moving.

If there's a large amount of slop in the diff the pinion will move so much the seal will leak.

This sounds like rust and just needs a shop thats experienced with rust. We sand it down and we'll use loctite on the seal itself to help ensure it does its job.

 

Is it safe to assume the frame is as toasty as the diff due to lack of preventative maintenance?

Best be sure the frame will hold together before dropping coin on a diff swap.

Good luck!

 

Get some emry cloth and clean up the the opening of the housing, then put a light coat of axle rtv around the seal. It helps lube it a bit when it goes in and helps it seal.

 

It has been replaced.

 

The mechanic (I did it once and thought maybe I did a bad job) who has tried it twice now, 2nd time with a new flange, says it seems to be coming from the metal being perforated. He thinks the seal is ok, hard to tell when everything looks wet. The back cover also has holes that I JB Welded, won't last. I really need a replacement differential. I've looked, no junkyards have them sketchy listing on FB. The Mechanic said he has tried twice in the past to find one to no avail. I've owned the truck since new, it looks great and runs good.
I'm 68 and crawling under a vehicle especially in Winter here in MA, is getting tough. I'm just bummed that I'll have to look for another one with an outreageous pricetag I can't afford.

 

What is your axle code?
Surely they aren’t that hard to find?

Maybe we can help you find one.

 

You don't need a new differential, you need a good non rusted out complete axle.

 

https://www.car-part.com/

 

Is the code stamped somewhere, or a tag perhaps. I didn't see one.

 

Yes, I agree.

 

Is this the tag to ID the rear axle?

 

Yes.

Your axle code is B07A

Which is an 8” Open differential with 4.30 gears.

 

Thanks TnShooter. Now the question is can I find one, or do I move on and buy a newer Tacoma. I realize even if I fix this there are plenty of things that will need to be done in the near future. If I can't fix them myself I'm at the mercy of local repair shops.

 

A 3rd member isn’t to hard to swap on these trucks. Neither is a whole axle assembly.

I mean, you can slide the axles out just enough to swap the 3rd member. And have it done in a few hours. You would need to disconnect the e-brake lines and if you can finesse the brake lines, you might not even have to disconnect them.


But I know better. And as soon as I did that, I have an axle seal leak. So I’d still remove the axles and replace the seals.


Anyways, it all depends on the shape of the truck. Is it is in good shape. It’s worth fixing.

If you can buy yourself another year or more. It’s worth it.

 

When I did I clean the area before I put the seal in, I was surprised they weren't rusted on the inside, it was clean, just the outside edges. The next 2 seals were done by a mechanic and he didn't mention using any sealer, so I'm guessing he didn't use any. I felt a little bit of movement, but not much, but maybe that is enough.