CV replacement; Need seals / 'cheaper' pn#'s

Howdy.. New to site, 1st post.
Noticed fishing line ripped my front left CV boot. Rock auto has complete CV unit for under $60, so bought it. (Cardone, good rep), but having heck of a time getting replacement front dif needle bearing. (Toyota has it for $141. pn 90364-33009. Not doing that). (I firmly believe that while replacing this CV unit, the needle bearing and both seals should be changed also). Research led me to 4WD sites that say replace bearing w/ a solid bushing. (My truck is 'stock', and not lifted, which is the off-roaders main reason for changing to the solid bushing for lifted trucks). I'd rather stick with stock, so anyone have a (?) Timkin pn# or any replacement # by Timkin or SKF, or..?? for the needle bearing? Or should I reconsider using the solid bushing? (Although not cheap either.. $60 + shipping). I'm betting with the right info there should be a good replacement # for under $40. Maybe I'm wrong.
But just as much a pain is finding BOTH seals (both ends of CV) Rock Auto lists only 1: the seal at the dif, I believe. Toyota #

$11 90311-47027 Toyota Genuine Parts - Seal, Type T Oil (90311-47027)

90311-47027 and Rock Auto pn# is SKF 18491 ($3.03!) . I bought it. BUT.. Toyota has it listed as pn# 90316-69001 for $116.. !! again.. ridiculous.. and I cannot find a replacement. Amazon isn't as much help on this one as they usually are. They don't differentiate between 2WD and 4WD, etc. So..? Is there any other wheel seal for this one. Front left 'Axle seal'. I'll welcome any and all comments and advice. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
John G.

 

I think I mis-spoke on a couple points.. 1st, When I said 'pain finding BOTH seals', I should have said 'I have one of the two, but not completely sure which is which'. Inner or outer. (poorly worded), I now think I have the correct 'inner' seal (at the dif), the one I got from Rock Auto, and when I said "Toyota has it".. I switched subjects from one seal to the other and thought it was unclear the way I said that also.. .sorry.. I meant the wheel seal, Toyota pn# for this (Outer) Wheel seal.. pn#90316-69001 is what they have for $116.. .. (because, like the needle bearing, way too $$$ from Toyota).. So.. I'm looking for cheaper alternatives for 1) the needle bearing 90364-33009 and 2), the outer 'wheel seal' #90316-69001. Thanks again..

John G.

 

Found more and better info, and have answered some of my own questions.. If anyone cares..lol.. I'll do my best to give this correctly.. What I was calling the 'Outer Seal' (Outboard end of the CV axle), is correctly named the Inner wheel seal, or Inner wheel bearing seal and is Toyota pn#90316-69001..or.. at O'Reilly's it's pn#710570 and costs about $30 (At Toyota it's $116). I also was able to see one up close and compare it to the other seal I got from Rock Auto (SKF 18491), Toyota #

$11 90311-47027 Toyota Genuine Parts - Seal, Type T Oil (90311-47027)

90311-47027, or O'Reilly # 710596, (at $7.49). (Again this was $3.03 at Rock Auto +shipping). The visual comparison was informative. The 'Axle seal', #710596 (at the differential) is about 2 3/4" in diameter and the 'Inner wheel seal', #710570, (outboard end of CV axle / in the wheel hub). is about 4+" in diameter. So there's that.

Now I did find some sources for the needle bearing, Toyota pn# 90364-33009 on Amazon, but 99% of the 'sources' are in Japan and take up to 2 1/2 weeks delivery time and costs as low as about $27 up to about $70 but, I did find one source in Washington State.. (I'm in Oregon).. but / and cost is listed at $104.. I missed them by phone today, but will call tomorrow and make sure they actually have them on the shelf, and that price is about $35 cheaper than Toyota, (at $141)..
I hope this info will help somebody else, BUT I'd still like feedback on the needle bearing versus bushing thing anyway.
Thanks all.
John G.

 

Man John
Sounds like u found torn boot early
I.E. no dmg to CV oe internals

What I would do is take to a RM axle vendor in your area
These vendors typically also RM steering racks…..ADCO is a national company

on my race car, I screwed up and coil over pinched CV boot. UGH
For $85 I took the CV axle to vendor
They inspected (no catastrophic damage)replaced both boots/bands/grease and all small parts…….while I waited!!!

drove back and installed
Zero issues after 12yrs
GL

 

No reason to replace the needle bearing unless you are lifted. I doubt you’d wear it out in normal use, many, many stock tacomas that never have an issue
Frankly kind of a pain to remove, you really need the tool (or make one)

 

Control car: I'm not excited about the 1/2 boot repair kits, and if your 'vendor' actually removed your axle to replace the [one piece], boots for $85, seems a good idea just to put in a whole new axle.. and after watching videos on how to change the CV axle and found the job not bad and the cost of the axle not bad, ($60 Cardone from Rock Auto). ), (and the truck having 283,000 on it), I decided to just change the whole axle.

Bought the bearing tool on Amazon already for $39 I can return it, if I don't use it.. I'm mainly wanting to get every possible part at least available within a day so I don't have to leave the truck on jack stands for more than a day or two. I'd hate to find my needle bearing is shot and have to order one from Japan. (Again, I'm not paying $141 from Toyota.. crooks). I have, or can get quick, both seals, and if these guys in Wash., have the needle bearing, I might bite the bullet and get that also, for $104.. and possibly only 1/2 days drive from here.. (Woodland, Wa.) Still too much, but I'll never be in this part of the truck again. ie: the left front CV axle. I'm glad to hear the needle bearings rarely go bad.. crossed fingers.. but I want to be prepared.. Thanks for the input.

 

Understood
At the time of my mess up(pinching boot)
2007(?)
The only other alternative was the $800 OEM 2006 Subaru Impreza STI cv
THAT wasn’t in the cards

I even bought an OEM boot/band
To try to install, was above my pay grade back then….returned the parts

 

The OEM cv joint itself is gonna be far superior to the aftermarket Cardone one, or any aftermarket one really. If there are no issues with the CV joint clicking or popping or getting contaminated from driving with the torn boot, etc you're much better off rebooting the original OEM one, if it is still the original.

 

I'm a fair mechanic, (plus I have a helper who's also a decent mechanic), and the videos of this job didn't spook me, so.. also the price of the whole CV axle from Rock Auto pushed me that direction. The guys in Wash., Yota Shop, don't answer the phone, and after 3:00 their message is 'we're closed at 3:00, and there is no street address anywhere on their website.. Seems a little 'sketchy', but I'll try again tomorrow. (They 'have' the needle bearing 90364-33009 for $104)(at least so says their website).

 

Yota Shop is fine, they are legit. I also am not a fan of Cardone. I have broken a few of their CVs on other makes within 100 miles. Much higher HP vehicles, but still, they sell some junk. Sometimes ya get lucky though.