2nd gen clutch

Hello TW people! My 2010 TRD Off-Road is starting to feel like it'll need a clutch at some point in the not so far off future,

Does anyone have any experience with the Southbend Endurance kevlar clutches? I don't have any crazy mods and the truck isn't making a bunch of extra horsepower. But I would like a mid more durability and longevity for when I'm working it offroad and in the deep snow.

Any input on a more durable daily driving clutch would be appreciated!

 

I am STRONGLY against performance clutches for stock power trucks. They have a very firm grip and a very short throw. Driven one once, and it's dumb.

$288 AISIN CKT-057 OE Matched Clutch Kit - Compatible with Select Toyota FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, Tundra

Aisin clutch kits for me.

Oh, and the URD throwout bearing kit for the RA60F type transmissions.

 

Agreed. Stock power levels, stock Aisin clutch. Far less money than what you’re looking at as well.



Google up these numbers.

Actual mfr / of the ÜŘÐ sleeve kit

https://www.pdmusa.com/OrderStorm-ecommerce-product-page/759177DA-A48A-4243-864E-DD688AD9D625

 

For god's sake, buy a stock clutch for a stock vehicle. You will regret anything fancy immediately. BTDT with high performance vehicles which sometimes need them, so you have to make sacrifices- which you will not like in everyday stop and go traffic. For my Tacoma I put in the stock Aisin.

 

$288 Aisin CKT-057 OE Matched Clutch Kit - Compatible with Select Toyota FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, Tundra

Aisin CKT-057 or OEM is the way. If you need more holding power you can change out the pressure plate for a stiffer one. The stiffer pressure plate increased the foot pedal pressure required in my case and it made the stock disc grab harder.

I just did this since my truck is supercharged and my 2yr old SPEC stage 2+ started rattling terribly at idle. I used an M-Pact pressure plate off of rockauto and an Aisin disc.

Just so others know, you don’t have to go to a racing clutch disc if you need more torque capacity. You need more pressure plate clamping force to keep the stock disc from slipping.

 

@BassAckwards okay thanks for the input, the stock clutch lasted 15 years and 140,000km (with life still in it). I was just curious if there's a bit more of a durable alternative while still being daily drive-able. I was just wondering if there was a better alternative for plowing through snow on frozen lakes and reversing on technical trails. Idk if reverse is geared kind of high or what, but I find myself working the clutch harder than I'd like backing up on inclines and over rocks

 

Yeah reverse gear in these trucks is geared wayyy too high. I have a northwest fab ecocrawler behind my 2.7 and it is so sweet to have a low range reverse gear where nothing binds up. Makes backing up your trailer a breeze.. I know this isn’t clutch related but the crawl box has been one of my favorite mods so you might consider it in the future.

 

@BassAckwards I'll look into it, thanks man. I've been relying on 4-lo to make it easier on the clutch backing up

Compared to my old Hyundai from high school or my BRZ that I take on road trips I'm surprised how high Toyota geared reverse in the Tacoma, one of my few complaints about the truck lol

 

Take a step back and look at what you are asking. I'm not being critical of you, just realistic, so hear me out before killing me.
You got 140,000km out of a stock clutch. That's more than what the average joe gets, and you have life left in it. That is commendable. Hang that clutch up as a trophy. You have been kind to it and it has served you well. I'm guessing your flywheel still has factory machine marks in it. In other words, you did well and it's time to replace. A stock clutch will serve you well for another 140,k. A new clutch every 125,k is just the expected maintance cost of owning a truck.

BTW, I got 230,k miles out of my stock 1st gen. And according to factory spec, it only had 0.015 missing per side. Tons of life left, but the spring chatter was insane.

 

It’s one of my few complaints as well. Honestly, who needs to do 25mph while backing up lol

 

Another vote for stock clutch. I’ve got over 200k miles on mine, and although I treat it well, I have beat the hell outta the clutch on multiple occasions. Still never slips even while towing.

putting a high performance clutch on a low-performance engine is never a fun driving experience. Unless you enjoy your left foot being a stall machine with a hair trigger lol. Will beat up your u-joints, etc as well with firmer, grabbier engagement.

as others said, get a stock clutch, or maybe a heavier pressure plate if you need more clamping power.

 

Short answer:No, stock is most durable, and designed for the truck. Aftermarket is ALWAYS a compromise, and rarely an improvement in overall durability.

 

I have URD Stage 2. Despite claiming to be stronger which it very well may be, it is also a full face contact for driving the vehicle.

semi/partial face puck clutches like what you posted are not for that. They are for Sunday cars.

for example. I rode in a B5 S4 Frankenturbos 700hp with a puck clutch. The owner said the bite was stupid harsh and relegated to Sunday car. It was not his daily.

The full face stage 2 is said to be stronger to be better. Better engagement. Better off road.
Would I go beyond that for my use to a stage 3 semi face puck clutch? Probably not. Pretty sure any decent manufacturer of such parts even tells you so.

Full face is probably designed to work with a bit of slippage on or off road.
Semi face puck is not. And is designed for a quick on off go. Every time. Fine for a track car.

not to mention. What is your off road ratio?
It takes money and additional transfer case(s) to make it crawlbox 80:1, 100:1, or more leverage at slower speed, like a Jeep or more.
Mine is not.
These trucks come like 40:1 or 50:1 low range. Which is what mine is given it has the original single tcase.
And dailies in traffic.

I can see why you might have more options or think about them if you had a supercharger and 270:1 tacobox triple stick or whatever it is. Most people do not.


I did Aisin. I fucked it up towing because I made the mistake of not having 2LO mod that would have prevented this. That I didn’t know about at the time. So I replaced it with stronger stage 2.
Well even towing accross the country my Aisin didn’t seem to like it. Or whatever I had. Half of it was Exedy.
Maybe your mileage will very.
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. mine broke so I fixed it.

 

I would say based on what you got out of the factory clutch replace it with the same type.

I have ~237,000 miles on my factory clutch. There is some spring rattle (I think, either that or catalytic converter rattle) on start up until it warms up, but it works just fine. I am not planning on replacing for a while I think.

I did replace the clutch master cylinder a few years ago as on really cold mornings (-20F to +20F) it would squeak really bad and be so slow as to return the pedal up that I would have to pull it up with my toe, when I closely inspected it I could see a small amount of fluid seeping up the cylinder. I replaced it with the asin Clutch master cylinder and have not had a problem since then.

 

I'd argue that crawl boxes make it a lot easier on the clutch. It's not a high horsepower operation.

Superchargers or turbos MIGHT benefit, but I think it would only play a part if you put a V8 in front.

 

I will kinda expand/update my post... The only aftermarket clutch I've ever used, or driven, that was totally streetable, was a Centerforce Dual Friction. I installed one in a car that I owned and was shocked by how fantastic it was- this was before the internet, so there wasn't much review type info available about it. This is a daily driver quality clutch, and it feels like you're driving a stock Honda and not a 50-year-old musclecar. It's not on/off, it has light pedal pressure, it totally feels and drives like a stock clutch with much greater torque capacity. They are much harder on the flywheel as that side of the disc is different from the pressure plate side.

 

Yes exactly. If it had a crawlbox it would potentially put less stress on the clutch and get away with a cheaper one. Anyone who has a crawlbox probably also has 2LO removing stress from it as well when backing a trailer.