4 cylinder towing ability

A voice of reason. Thank you.

 

And I’ve often wondered why nobody asks a Semi tractor driver about their underpowered rigs when they are crawling up an interstate grade with their hazard’s flashing?

 

I appreciate the input. I was looking at some small travel trailers that have a dry weight of 2700 lbs and figured 400 lbs for water and gear. But I've now become interested in the Travel Lite Falcon which have some models that are 2400 lbs or less. I realize I must go as light as possible and still keep a toilet and shower. Is your TAB self contained with grey and black water tanks or possibly just grey water and a cassette toilet?

I'm open to any suggestions for the lightest used travel trailer for under $20,000 that has an indoor shower and at least a cassette toilet.
Thx E1

 

Yes all it takes in one blow out or some other loss of contro at 80MPH and it doesn't matter how tow capable you vehicle is. I've owned several trailers and towed thousands of miles so that's why I'm approaching this with some caution and skepticism. I appreciate E1's input

 

Not to high jack the thread but you’re missing my points. I am not saying drive at 80mph I think that’s insane but sometimes you need to drive with traffic to avoid being a hazard or further creating a hazard. In my Tacoma I could travel at 50-65mph on the interstate, I could not use cruise control and was often being shifted around by the wind or a passing semi. In contrast my f150 could travel with traffic at posted speed with cruise control and brake controller and was more in control of stopping, starting and passing; the F150 had a more balanced and aerodynamic load. These are the things that made me decide the F150 was a much more comfortable experience.

Is the 2.7l Tacoma capable of towing a 3,400# travel trailer? Yes

What distances will you be towing, on what terrain and in what weather?

I would consider a 2.7l Tacoma again for a daily driver and for towing a personal boat 2-50 miles to a boat launch but not a travel trailer.

Do some research on trailer towing surface area and see how tow ratings change.

 

It’s gray water and cassette. Personally I love the cassette.
Join a Tab Facebook group. Plenty of good used ones for sale.

 

Rear drum are more of an issue than 3k#'s uphill. Trailer brakes set properly offset those drums on the truck. A healthy 2.7 w/ a manual isnt premium but should be plenty capable.

 

We have a 2010 T@B and tow it with our 2.7/5speed 4x4 access cab and it all works fine. Aerodynamics are great and ours has surge mechanical brakes that work seamlessly. After the header/intake and clutch fan delete, I don't even have to shut off the A/C going up a hill ;-)

 

I don't own one, but when I was searching for a camper, the Tab 320 is the smallest / lightest / nicest one I found with an actual shower and toilet. Size won't quite work for us (family of four if you count the dog), but it looks like a solid option for lightweight + amenities.

 

Too much hate for the 4 bangers. I had a 1980 Toyota 4X4 with the 20R engine with I think 97 HP. I towed stuff everywhere with no issues. Patience and don't get in a hurry and do stupid shit and you will be fine.

 

"You're pushing the limits at sea level with just a driver in the cab. If you have passengers and cargo in the truck you need to consider that weight"

I respectfully disagree.
I've owned this truck for a little over a year now. I've loaded it to full capacity with building materials and pulled grades 7000'+ over mountain passes back to my home in South Lake Tahoe with ease . I've also pulled a 1100 lbs trailer up here and this truck performed impressively every time. If you have a 4cyl that struggles at sea level with just your body weight your truck either needs a serious tune up or you weigh a lot more than I do.

 

Apparently they (Nucamp) make a Tab 360 now, splitting the difference between the 320 and 400 (which is borderline for me towing with the 4Runner).

Now they're brand new, so won't be any used market for a while, but it may be a good option in the future for people who can't quite fit into the 320.

 

I’m an unabashed fan of the 2.7 with the 5 speed manual.
As I said earlier most bashers have likely never driven one let alone towed with one.
And if the engine is so weak, just consider that Toyota has used the same drivetrain in vehicles like these (admittedly with much lower gearing in the differential).

 

That is what it was originally designed for...

 

Are all the second gen’s pre wired for the in cab break controllers? I have a regular cab.

 

The 2.7s aren’t. Mine came with an OEM “port installed “ OEM hitch and 4 pin wiring. I installed the 7 pin and brake controller (Red Arc). ETrailer has some excellent YouTube videos on installation.
It isn’t hard at all. I even installed a relay to only run 12V to my trailer battery while the ignition is on.
I highly recommend the Red Arc. It’s hidden out of view with the controller knob mounted on the dash in an empty slot.

 

G2's prewired?

 

It’s always been my understanding if it’s a V6 with tow package it is prewired. All others it’s DIY.

 

No need to ask them, they can't get something with enough power to pull 80,000 pounds up a 6% grade at the speed limit for any length over a mile or so. There are a few places where the grade reaches 8-9% for short periods, such as Old Fort Mountain on I-40 in western NC, but interstate grades are limited to 6% when possible. Even 5% can be a chore when it stretches for miles, Fancy Gap mountain on I-77 at the NC/VA line is 7 miles of a 5% grade. I've never seen a fully loaded semi (45 foot trailer) doing more than about 45-50 up that hill.

I didn't see where OP mentioned having a frame mounted hitch, so do you? If not, even if the truck can pull your stated weight, a bumper hitch won't come close to that. If you aren't in a hurry, you should be okay pulling your desired weight as long as you have a frame mounted hitch, and I would want brakes on the trailer axle. Your clutch will be the weak link in the drivetrain, so be gentle with it.