3rd Gen Spoofer Development for ADD and Transfer Case Actuators

I had it, but can't seem to find it. Just email Hypertech, tell them you just need the speed calibrating harness for a 3rd Gen Tacoma.

OP might have a source, since he has a harness on one of his pics he's posted.

 

Using the 2low kit for those. That’s what makes what I do so ridiculously expensive, needing to buy a harness every time I experiment.

 

I guess I’m late to seeing this! I haven’t gotten around to hacking my 2lo harness yet(I’m an electrical idiot), but here’s what @BLtheP supplied to me:


For parts, I used these:

Relay bases (need at least 6, but maybe order 10 for extra wiring terminals in case you make a mistake (likely))

Choose H84702007

https://m.delcity.net/store/Hella-Micro-&-Mini-Connector-Block-Kits/p_818106.h_818107

Relays:

6 at least, more if you want spares

https://m.delcity.net/store/ISO-Micro-Relay-with-Resistor/p_822455.h_810153.r_IF1003

Butt splices

I use tons of these, brazed version, for splicing wires together without shame. I use a Thomas and betts crimper for them. Just have to remember the heat shrink first.

https://m.delcity.net/store/Non!Insulated-Butt-Connectors/p_801870.h_801871

and these, same thing but for connecting small wire to large wire, or connecting 2 wires to 1 wire

https://m.delcity.net/store/Non!Insulated-Step!Down-Butt-Connectors/p_801887.h_801888

Resistors:

You can use whatever you want really as long as you test it and it works. I only had one resistor on hand from my new 2L kit, so I used it. You need 2 though (one for ADD one for t-case), so I grabbed an old turn signal resistor from VLEDS that worked fine. It doesn’t really matter. The computer just needs to see something is there when it goes to energize the motors. If it gets no feedback it will throw a fault. So this is what I had on hand.

https://www.vleds.com/vlr-6-wc.html

spools of wire

I used black, white, red, green, blue, tan, brown, and pink. That mostly covered it but I used some colors multiple times
Which is a bit confusing, but as long as you can keep it straight during building and testing, it will be fine.

20 gauge
https://m.delcity.net/store/20-Gauge-Wire/p_181397.h_181472

18 gauge
https://m.delcity.net/store/18-Gauge-Wire/p_181398.h_181558

I used 18 gauge for pretty much everything. The relay terminals are meant for 14 and 16, but 18 works fine if you crimp it right.

Jumper harness:

here is what I planned to use if I ever swap.



Depin stock connector, move wires over to 90980-11086 (purchased), purchase 90980-11087 and some terminals for it, install two wires and run those to the FJ case switches.

terminals: I’m not sure if male or female is correct for the 11087 connector, so I’d buy 5 or so of both.



I have found the connectors for connecting to the manual t-case switches yet, so I’m working on those. Worst case they could be snipped and converted to 2-pin Deutsch or weatherpack.

That’s basically it for parts.

For airing you’re going to want my diagram, my words will probably be too much but I can at least type out each wire and where it goes.

F12 - small 10-pin connector in 2L harness



Power, ground, and the 4 motor wires that go to the 2 resistors will be on F12. Everything else will be on F13

F13 - large 40-pin connector in 2L harness



Relay 1 (ADD) - spoofs the ADD

86 - Ign 12V - pin 4 on F12
85 - 4wd select - from 4WD switch on t-case
30 - ground - pin 10 on F12
87A - DL1 - pin 8 on F13
87 - DL2 & ADD - pins 7 and 2 on F13 (splice them together before they go to the relay

Relay 2 (4H 1) - keeps TL1 grounded in 2WD, disconnects that and grounds TL3 when switching to 4WD

86 - Ign 12V - pin 4 on F12
85 - 4WD select - from 4WD switch on t-case
30 - Ground - pin 10 on F12
87A - TL1 - pin 11 on F13
87 - TL3 - goes to pin 87A on Relay 6

Relay 3 (4H 1) - spoofs the knob request when choosing 4H - adds ground on pin 13 which is what the knob does when you turn it to 4H

86 - Ign 12V - pin 4 on F12
85 - 4WD select - from 4WD switch on t-case
30 - ground
87A - N/A
87 - 4WD request - pin 13 on F13

Relay 4 (L4 1) - 4L select, takes away ground from pin 14 (to mimic knob when turning knob to 4L)

86 - Ign 12V - pin 4 on F12
85 - 4L select - from 4L switch on t-case
30 - ground - pin 10 on F12
87A - 4L request - pin 14 on F13
87 - N/A

Relay 5 (L4 2) - TL2 to ground when in 4L

86 - Ign 12V - pin 4 on F12
85 - 4L select - from 4L switch on t-case
30 - Ground - pin 10 from F12
87A - N/A
87 - TL2 - pin 10 on F13

Relay 6 (L4 3) - disable TL3 from ground in 4L

86 - Ign 12V - pin 4 on F12
85 - 4L select - from 4L switch on t-case
30 - TL3 - pin 9 on F13
87A - TL3 - from pin 87 on Relay 2
87 - N/A

in addition to relays, the 4WD and 4L transfer case switches need to provide grounds to the following:

4WD confirmation (4WD switch) - pin 1 on F13
4L confirmation (4L switch) - pin 3 on F13

Essentially, when triggering 4H and 4L, each switch does 4 things.

When going to 4H:

• T-case 4WD switch provides a ground to confirm in 4WD
• Controls a relay to spoof the ADD
• Controls a relay to mimic knob 4WD request
• Controls a relay to disconnect TL1 from ground at rest and provides ground at TL3

When going to 4L:

• T-case 4L switch provides a ground to confirm in 4L
• Controls a relay to mimic the knob 4L request
• Controls a relay to ground TL2
• Controls a relay to take away ground from TL3 that was provided by relay 2

I know that’s a lot of words. I’ll try to build a diagram but I don’t know when I’ll have time. That should give you enough to get started. I will say, be careful about what wires you cut. For example, a lot of these wires on the t-harness only need to go back to the 4wd ECU and not the dash harness. Some need to go back to the dash harness, like the 4L confirmation (pin 3 F13). The skid control ECU needs that. I cut it without thinking. It is very difficult to depin F13, so you really don’t want to make any mistakes there. I recommend cutting wires in the middle of the t harness, and extend by splicing longer wire.

 

Yeah, I ended up taking that exact message, editing it some (I've had some minor changes since then), and sent it to rmack privately.

The biggest difference is I am no longer doing resistors at all. I have found that they are simply not necessary for spoofing anything, so I got rid of them entirely. One or two less fragile things to need to mess with when building the harness and stuffing it into the dash area.

 

That is quite cool. Looking forward to the final product. The autos can be weird to swap to manual t-case because the shifter wants to come up in the cupholder. Obviously that problem doesn't apply for you anyways though because of your crawl box pushing things further back.

My biggest hangups are that I have to clearance the back of the manual trans for the rods in the transfer case, and the cutting of the hole in the floor (or enlarging existing hole), as well as altering the shifters to provide adequate fitment. The wiring I can do all day long. I don't trust myself to make clean cuts in that thin sheet metal floor, and I don't know what I'd do about the shifter because I insist on keeping the long throw stock shifter. The clearancing the back of the trans I can deal with, although I don't want to do that either lol.

 

Thank you! I actually have one of those right now but don't use it after swapping to 38" with 5.29 gears my speedometer is back to normal (*). I didn't realize you were referring to the speedometer calibration they sell.

UPDATE (*) - See reference here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...er-case-actuators.841653/page-3#post-30363890

 

You can use this to help cut a good circular hole in the floor. This is just an example set on Amazon, but you can get individuals ones at Home Depot / Lowes / etc...

$53 BOSCH HSBIM9 9-Piece Bi-Metal Hole Saws Assorted Kit with SpinLOCK Universal Arbor with Included Carrying Case for General Purpose Applications in Wood, Aluminum, Metal, Plastic Materials

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NTW1613

 

Yeah, guess it depends on the boot options. I forget that the 4runners had a solitary t-case shifter and so there is likely a small circular boot I can use.

More common for the manual trucks is to enlarge the existing hole, which I am/was not excited about. But if I could keep the t-case shifter in it's own hole, that would be okay and much easier with a hole saw than enlarging existing.

 

This isn't to hard, but you can by pass this all together with a reduction box. With a reduction box like TG/Taco/Eco the shift rods don't go past the adapter that attaches to the back of the tranny.

 

I may have found a source for the wiring connectors we need:

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/parts-list/2017-toyota-tacoma/electrical/wiring_clamp.html

Scroll down to “Standard Parts”.


Also,
This appears to be a match for the 40 pin connector:

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256802253776277.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

 

I appreciate you sharing these links. I am going to spend the next few days thinking about different solutions based on what I want to accomplish. My original goal was to remove interconnected electronics from preventing 4-wheel drive such as breaking the ABS sensors like I have in the past. I have a front(Eaton)/rear(Toyota) elocker and the ADD, but they will all have their own wire harness. If something goes wrong it would either be mechanical or the single wire harness. The dash lights for me are secondary but it would be great to have them gone. Putting the 4WD actuator in the cab is a no go for me.

Initial thoughts I am having with this thread topic with spoofing the ADD and t-case.

• Do I want to have a
  $34 DaierTek 12V Relay Box 6 Way Relay Fuse Box 12 AWG Pre-Wired Waterproof Relay Box 6 Slot ATC/ATO Fuse Relay Block Universal Relay Panel for Automotive Car Marine Boat
  water proof relay box (semi) plug and play at the end of the original plugs? (*)
  
• Do I want to have a relay box inside the cab wedged between the 4 Wheel Drive Control Module 89533-04060 and the rest of the wire harness similar to 2Lo mod (**)
  
• Do I want to use something other than a relay box? MOSFETS/Resistors, Diodes? Use a
  $10 Pro Micro with Atmega32U4 chip Development Board, AYWHP 1 PCS Pro Micro 5V/16MHz Nano microcontroller Development Board with Built-in USB updater Type-C Interface Compatible with Arduino IDE
  micro-controller and program it using digit logic gates and the 4wheel drive controller?

I can see having to potentially fake the ADD, T-case, and by passing the rear locker. Right now I have replaced the ADD switch, manual t-case, and I was thinking about running a new wire harness for the rear locker. The only reason I would want to spoof the 4WD controller is to get 4WD traction control and crawl control back. It would also help clear the dash lights and enable lights for 4WD and 4Lo if I didn't splice the dash lights. There was a thread on fixing the dash lights here but you no longer have traction control for 4WD-High and crawl control because the 4WD CPU fuse is pulled.

(*) Semi-Plug N Play would mean at the T-case Plug (Pins are wires) This would basically simulate the 4WD t-case I believe. I don't think you need to do anything with pins 1 & 2 unless 5-ohm resistor is needed for the 4WD CPU?

1. When Pin 12(B) is grounded to Pin 10 then Pin 4(TL2) is grounded to Pin 6, and Pin 3(TL1) is no longer grounded to Pin 6, and Pin 9(L4) is no longer grounded to Pin 12(B) (This occurs when you shift into 4WD with the manual indicator)
   
2. When Pin 9(L4) is grounded to Pin 10 then Pin 4(TL2) is grounded to Pin 6, and Pin 3(TL1) is no longer grounded to Pin 6, and Pin 12 is no longer grounded to Pin 9 (This occurs when you shift into 4WD Lo with the manual indicator)
   
3. When Pin 12(B) or Pin 9(L4) are not grounded to Pin 10 then Pin 3(TL1) is grounded to Pin 6, and Pin 4(TL2) is no longer grounded to Pin 6

(**) This would make it Plug-N-Play and easier to setup spoofing of the ADD and T-Case together. I am not sure about the need to spoof the rear locker if you run this via another wire harness?

 

So the entire premise behind what I experimented with and developed was that if I were to do a manual t-case, I want it to function 100% like stock. Working indicator lights, working traction modes, working 4L locker enabling.

The only way to get indicator lights on the dash is by keeping the 4WD ECU because it provides those signals to the instrument cluster over CAN. So in my mind, the only option for what I wanted was to fool the ECU. I am a stickler for
Things like indicator lights. I want them to work. If it worked when it was stock, then I somewhat obsess about doing what I can to keep functional after my mod. So that type of goal is why it ended up how it did.

The common knowledge before I did what I did was that the logic of the ECU monitoring the different TL circuits and the ADD circuits were too complicated and wanted to see too many different inputs and especially different values as the switches moved throughout the range, to be mimicked by relays. So no one tried. So I decided to build a harness that would use as many relays as needed to mimic all of the TL circuit positions in each mode, as well as the ADD. Obviously relays are simply on and off, so you can’t get them to work how you want to provide constantly changing feedback during the sweep of a shift. Thankfully, my testing proved it didn’t matter. The ECU was perfectly happy as long as triggering a shift (for example
the FJ t-case 4wd switch when going from 2-4) triggered all the appropriate relays to make sure all the inputs were providing the right feedback after the shift, and the ECU was happy. My ECU didn’t evaluate anything between shifts. It is perfectly happy going immediately from 2WD status to 4WD status without seeing any constantlt changing data as the shift occurs. The ECU just sees all the inputs from the relays immediately in the correct spot and thinks “wow that’s fast!” and turns on the light immediately, no problem.

I don’t see a reason to use a micro controller at all. It will be custom, complicated, etc. Unless you simply want some sort of computerized function that you can’t get with relays, I don’t see the point. There is another guy trying to make a module for dealing with various t-case mods, and I have nothing against an idea like that, but he’s trying to accomplish things like immediate 2L activation, anytime locker mod, etc. so that’s a lot more complicated stuff that needs logic to be built in, and that won’t fly off of just relays.



Are you keeping the ADD motor or are you swapping to the FJ full time diff tube? With you having as much of a heavily modified setup as you have, I don’t see why the ADD would be kept. You can certainly keep it if you want, you’d leave out the ADD relay I detailed out and your computer would continue to operate it back and forth as requested by the 4WD switch on the transfer case, much like a stock automatic FJ. Whereas on our trucks, the knob makes that request.


I don’t see what building a relay harness to go at the end devices accomplishes either. All of the wiring that needs to be messed with is at the ECU which is a central location and easy to install an inserted T harness. Doing it at the tcase will be more complicated because not all of the ignition wiring and such runs out that way. Plus there isn’t a mating connector for the stock t-case connector anyways.




It all comes down to what you want to achieve. Are you still trying to activate the stock locker off of the stock switch, and only in 4L? Like I said, this whole plan I came up with was based purely off of trying to insert my own ADD delete and manual t-case, and manipulate the 4WD ECU as much as possible to maintain the traction modes and locker function. ADD can stay or go based on preference, I prefer it gone for simplicity. The rest of it was all so the ECU could stay in place, continue to light the lights, and operate the locker and activate traction modes when needed.

traction modes are easy. All you have to do is ground a certain circuit when in 4L for those to work. All the traction mode stuff is accomplished by the brake module anyways, the 4WD ECU/tcase actuator just provides a ground signal to the brake modules that tell them to enable traction modes, which then throws all the lights when you’re in 4L(ABS, trac, etc) via CAN.

 

This sounds like my method, making a t-harness with relays that plugs in between the in-panel harness and the 4WD ECU, using relays to spoof the t-case and ADD. If so, then nothing needs to be done to the locker at all. The new manual tcase will operate the relays in ways that will make the ECU think the stock t-case is in place. Therefore, you will be able to use the locker as soon as you shift the manual t-case into 4L. Again, another reason why I did it the way I did. Trying to keep things as stock as possible. I didn’t want to build a micro controller, didn’t want to have dangling actuators underneath or in the cab, I just simply wanted the truck to function as if it was 100% stock with a manual t-case. So I just worked it backwards seeing what the stock actuators provide in terms of feedback, and seeing if relays can mimic those bits of feedback. They did so perfectly. The three tentpoles are that the new manual tcase switches need to mimic requesting 2WD, 4H, and 4L via the stock knob…the switches need to provide confirmation grounds to confirm the shifts occurred (these are what approve traction modes and such), and lastly they needed to trigger the relays that flip all the TL, limits, and ADD circuits back and forth so that the ECU is fooled into thinking things are still stock and happy.

 

@BLtheP the work you have done is amazing. I don't have as much knowledge as you on this topic yet and the fact you took the time to figure it out is really cool.

As far as a micro controller. Here are my thoughts on why I would want to do it this way.

• The cost is negligible at $10 vs the relay box I showed at $30.
  
• It takes 5V to run it and it is small, a lot smaller than a 5-6 relay box so it would fit well under the dash
• The one I mentioned has many I/O ports, 54 of them, so plenty of room to do stuff
  
• I can program, so coming up with the logic and testing it on a embedded device like this would be easier for me (I can write technical documents so explaining what I did would also be easy)
  
• It could be programmed to... only spoof the ADD, only spoof the T-case, spoof everything, turn on rear locker in any configuration, etc... (I just need to understand which wire goes to what to program this up and connect to the pins on the micro-controller)
• If it was going to be used by multiple people they could select what options they wanted making it more plug N play

No I am keeping the ADD right now. If I decide I don't like it for any reason then I will do the ADD delete. So right now if something in the ADD fails it will be the ADD or the wire harness and that is it. Easier to diagnose and fix if this is the case and no other electronics prevent 4WD. I kept the ADD because I like the idea of selecting if the front axles are turning or not at the wheels. Locking hubs would be cool but I haven't investigated if this is even possible with IFS? Also I understand the method you came up with would handle the ADD which is again really cool. For me personally, I just don't want other electronics systems preventing any of the other components preventing 4WD. I want everything isolated if possible; which was my person original goal.

My thought here was that while at the ends (changing them) plugging something in, if possible, would potentially be easier while doing the conversion over then going behind the dash. I do agree with you that centrally located is the more logical option. I don't understand the wires there yet, once I do and I understand what parts are available to me to make changes then everything else will be really easy for me. I am a visual learner so seeing a schematic and understanding the wires I/O would make all of this a lot easier for me. Currently I understand the end points well so making this modification is currently easier for me. I still have to catch up with understanding the wires at the CPU.

What I would like to have is the rear elocker on its own circuit so no other circuits impact turning it on/off. So if the 4WD CPU goes or if the ABS sensors go I don't want these things impacting if the rear elocker can go on or off. If I could reuse the elocker button to accomplish this even better. Otherwise I will run my own wire harness and I will use my 8-gange switch panel to control the rear locker like I have with the front locker. What I don't know is if this will throw any codes from the 4WD CPU and display them on my dash. I guess I could unplug it and see what happens later today.

Again, you have come up with a good solution, I am just considering how I want to implement it. I would also like to give back like you have once i figure out how I will implement.

My action items are:

1. Investigate and understand the wires off the 4WD CPU (what does what) - you seem to have a good understanding so I was hoping for some help with this given the information you have been providing, thank you (*)
   
2. Investigate if there are plugs I can get off the 4WD CPU like the 2Lo harness so I can get these and not have to buy a 2Lo harness for (~)$150
3. Investigate relays vs the micro-controller (right now I am leaning towards the micro-controller) and if so how do I package this and tie it into the plugs like the 2Lo harness
4. Write up what I did so other could do it (parts and links, technical diagrams, code if I do the micro-controller, technical documents)

(*)

 

I see, you are wanting a more customizable and more functional type of setup than I know how to build. Mainly for things like being able to activate the locker anytime and other things like that. Unfortunately that is outside of my expertise so can’t help with any of it. Honestly, I just wanted to see if I could accomplish spoofing the t-case and once I realized I could, that was it for me. Like I’ve said, not a hard wheeler here, so needing full customization of the locker is not something I prioritized at all, as I have no need to activate the locker outside of the stock parameters personally.

So, not sure if it helps, but keeping the ADD won’t change anything at the wheels. You’ll still be spinning the CVs full time. The ADD just makes it to where the wheels don’t drive the R&P or the front driveshaft. But the axles themselves will always be turning unless you implement the hub idea.

Unfortunately, there are no hub options for our gen. The popular wheel bearing guy around here sold some for a while but I want to say they were problematic or something. Whatever it was, they’re no longer available. So for me, if I’m doing a full customized setup like this, I’m ditching the ADD 100%, as at that point it’s providing nothing but a potential failure point for me. Just my personal opinion.

I could be wrong, but I think you’ll find installing behind the dash isn’t difficult and is ultimately easier than doing anything at the end of the line. I guess it comes down to if you want to run wiring, which you’re already running some, so maybe not a big deal. You’re going to need the transfer case switches to interact with the ECU, and you’re going to need ignition power and all those actuator signals going to relays no matter what. I’d much rather keep everything dry and in the cab in one central spot.

I guess what I’m getting at is you’re going to need more wiring than what is available at the transfer case connector, so it seems more logical to me to put everything at the source: the ECU, since all wiring already exists there and is easy to access with a 2L kit (or if you can find the connectors - I was only able to find I think 2 or 3 of them, not all 4), plus then making 100 something crimps for all of them didn’t excite me, so the 2L kit ends up winning for me anyways…

Not sure if you have it, but check out the PDF I’m uploading in this post. It’s the full diagram for the entire locker and 4WD system. It has all the info for any applicable item pertaining to the 4WD ECU. That will make it make more sense as to what all wires you’re needing to interact with and why (i think) it makes more sense to do it all behind the dash.

You could also use the 2L kit or wisher you use behind the dash to manipulate the locker wires and to disconnect the locker wiring from the ECU controls so you can run it standalone.

The ECU uses its own weird PWM style power for the locker, but honestly I think you could probably just activate it with 12V and be good. I don’t know that for sure though, and so that’s on you or others to test.

With the locker disconnected from the ECU, you will for sure have all the 4L lights turned on and a 4wd error or something like that. Essentials, a Christmas tree. The solution to that is to get a 4WD ECU from junkyard/eBay for a 2020-2023 non-offroad/non-pro which supports everything except the locker function. You’d want 89533-04060; I have done this experiment before and confirmed it works.

You will not be able to use the factory locker switch unless you use some sort of latching or times relay or a module that contains some logic to power the locker. That is because the factory switch is momentary and the ECU does the rest. Honestly, you probably want to just use an aftermarket latching switch anyways so that you don’t lose the locker if your truck stalls (although you have an auto and crazy low gearing so that seems unlikely).

but anyways, here are the 4WD ECUs for all years. They are all plug and play. Differences between 16-19 and 20-23 are front diff oil temp sensor (16-19) vs non (20-23). I don’t know the difference between 16-17 and 18-19 2WD, but that doesn’t matter to you anyways.

Transfer Case Control Module

89533-04030 - 16-19 w/o off-road, 4WD
89533-04041 - 16-19 with off-road, 4WD
89533-04050 - 16-17 with off-road, 2WD
89533-04051 - 18-19 with off-road, 2WD
89533-04060 - 20-23 w/o off-road, 4WD
89533-04070 - 20-23 with off-road, 4WD
89533-04080 - 20-23 with off-road, 2WD

1. The document uploaded should help with that. But yes, I can answer whatever for that. It’s really quite a simple system, but there are limitations for what you can do and it is a somewhat smart computer so it needs to be fooled thoroughly when fooling it.
2. Good plan and I wish you luck. You surely can find them somewhere (the 2L guys do), but I don’t know where and if will be a solid exercise for your crimper when you do. So sadly, I find myself leaning on the 2L harnesses for my use.
3. That one I definitely can’t help with.
4. Also a good plan.

Honestly, if I were you, I would do the following:

• Buy non locker ECU, install aftermarket switch and relay that applies 12V directly to locker. OR keep the locker ECU, put a resistor over the power wires so the ECU thinks the locker is there, keep the indicator wires intact so that when you power the locker yourself, the computer *should* still light up the dash light for the locker. But that would need testing. If you don’t care about the indicator then use the non offroad ECU and power the locker yourself and forget about the rest.
  
• Delete the add and t-case using the relay spoofer (you’re already free and clear from depending on the ECU for the locker due to the step above). The reason I like the relay spoofer (if it can suit all your functional preferences) is that relays are simple, you can find them anywhere, etc. the worst that could go wrong is you pull a kick panel to replace a relay and then continue on.
• Keep it all central at the dash where you can handle everything in one solution. This would be easiest in case a relay or part goes wrong, all of your work is inside the cab, safe from water, and all located in one spot.

I can see the merit to the custom microprocessor solution, but it just seems a bit complicated when you aren’t likely to change this setup once it’s done. If you can support the locker separately to get it away from the ECU, then that seems to solve the issues you have with depending on the ECU, because at that point you are really only using the ECU for traction modes and lighting indicator lights on the instrument cluster.

 

Thank you for all of the responses and information, I appreciate it. And Happy New Year!
I will think about the different solutions and see which one I end up going with and make sure to write up what I do and how it works here. I will PM any questions I have about the ECU pins if the document you provided doesn't give me a clear picture. E.g. How one switch might impact another. Thank you for the PDF.

 

I got my rear locker working via a separate wire harness for right now. I have a few other items I need to work on, but I am going to start ordering parts to dig into the spoofing next. So I am still looking into this, thank you.

To make sure people don't turn lockers on

• The 8-switch panel isn't on unless I connect the switch fuse under the hood
• Once the switch panel has power you need to turn it on with the power button
  
• Once the switch panel is on you need to hit two buttons to turn on a locker

 

Sorry, a bit off topic.
When you did the rear disc brake conversion, what did you use as a parking brake? Electric parking brake...? Whose product?

 

Hello, I bought the trail gear rear disc brake conversion kit. I might change this in the future but for right now it is working well, I really went with this because of the price and I was going to do this t-case conversion and wanted that spot for the shifters. I would rather have better calipers but this is a transitional change for me and I wanted to budget for the rest of the crawl box and t-case swap. At the time I got it on sale for $450.00 so I couldn't pass it up since I went up to 38" tires, I also upgraded my fronts to 4runner calipers and rotors. The truck currently stops better with the 38" and the changes then it did with 35" with all stock brakes. I currently don't have an e-brake. Once I am done with a few other items I will most likely look into a hydraulic e-brake solution, or an electronic brake solution like you mentioned. Most likely in the next few months. I understand some states require them under their statutes. In addition with a 230 gear ratio and the torq... I felt I needed the rear disc brakes as I am not sure how the drums would handle it (maybe fine?). As a side note with 38" tires my speedo w/ 5.29 gears is the same as stock, I don't need to mess with the speedometer anymore. UPDATE... later in this thread someone pointed out this is wrong and I am still trying to figure out why my speedo is reading correctly. Reference: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...er-case-actuators.841653/page-3#post-30363890

Other more expensive options w/ e-brakes, I am sure there are lots of threads here on the topic so these are just for reference

• https://sosperformance.com/products...with-parking-brake-slash-tr-dot-ps2-dot-ta16?
• https://pedders.com/products/toyota-tacoma-rear-disc-brake-conversion-kit

Items I have looked over, but not in detail yet to see if they will work (still in investigation stage for me). Note I had a M-37 with a small hydraulic hand ebrake and it worked really well, so I was thinking something like this would work for me as well.

• https://www.offroadwarehouse.com/pr...ng-brake-rear-retrofit-brake-kit-140-16849-bk
• https://dirtking.com/products/hydraulic-hand-brake-kit

 

You sure about that? The 3rd gen measures speed using the wheel sensors so gearing has no effect on the speedo. I run 35s with 5.29s and my speedo is off by around 12%.

Unless I'm misunderstanding you somehow?