Home Improvement Today?

Before you buy one ask your neighbors, friends, coworkers. Someone probably has one. Most people buy one and only use for one job. If you were closer I’d let you use mine. Been in the corner of my shed for about 15 years now.

 

Good point, I would rather not buy one.

 

If you get one make sure to have about 4 people on that thing because if you lock up on something it will break an arm......

 

In the sand of Tampa you won’t unless you’re near trees. I’ve put in about 600 fence posts in Florida and have only had two spots that kick back because of tree roots.
Just my experience.

 

Nice -

More than many many times than I can count haha I have hit boulders that need one or more of the follow:

digging up
Busting up underground
Boring through
Etc

The delay is days to hours of frustration and soreness. Oddly I remember most of the rock! I liked the big flat ones, just punch through - but one punched and then sheared longitudinally, ended up busting in pieces.......

The only win with immovable rocks is often I could anchor to the rock and a) really strong post and the b) next clown will be baffled if he tries to pull that post for whatever reason.

 

That's how I felt most of my yards posts.

 

just a note-- those hinges are cabinet hinges. they're generally only going to support about 3/4" of overlap between the door and the frame they're mounted to. in your pictures, your panels are far larger than that.

i would also potentially look at adding a backer board to the doors for further reinforcement. could be as simple as a 1" furring strips installed within the opening, or as fancy as a solid panel that slots within the opening.

you can also experiment with 'hatch hinges' in conjunction with the pneumatic shocks, depending on mounting location, they can provide similar clearance to the concealed hinge hardware, without the typical spring-loaded design most concealed hinges like linked above have--which can introduce extra stress on the panel while opening/closing.

 

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...^^^... Good info for me as I am going to be doing some spraying ...

 

I'm not quoting everyone that responded about paint sprayers but thanks to all that responded. I am going to create a make shift paint booth in my garage that I can heat with a closed loop oil filled electric space heater since it's a winter in new england job. Also, since this is a one off project, I don't want to spend $500 on a sprayer I will only use for this one project. The X5 looks a bit more professional grade than I was thinking. Looking at one for $159 that should do the trick. If it's bad, I'll clean it up and return it.

 

I've been debating adding to and/or upgrading my pressure washer (1800psi electric Stihl). I really like it and it serves me well for light duty work (cleaning decks, vinyl siding, etc.). I've turned down some bigger, dirtier cleaning jobs as I know that unit would struggle.

So I was at Lowe's poking around for something else and something caught my eye. They had a 3700psi Simpson Pro pressure washer (just the one) with Honda engine and the better Triplex serviceable pump. New in box. Regular price is $850. It's marked down to $339 on clearance. At that price I'd be a fool to say no.

 

This fall/winter’s project was turning some awkward space around and under the stairs into a playroom for the kids. We told them it would be a storage room while we did most of the work on it, then we added the facade and decorated it while they stayed at Grandma’s a couple nights ago.

 

Tricking children is the best part of being a parent.

 

General maintenance stuff today - flushed the water heater and got all kinds of tan water and particles out of it. I do that once per year, and it doubles as a good test of the sump pump since that never runs otherwise. Might be smarter to do it during the summer, though - the well water is super cold in the winter (shallow well) and I'm sure I use quite a bit of electricity getting the tank back up to temperature.

On to a thorough pellet stove cleaning.

 

Just a quick PSA...

3M delicate surface is indeed NOT delicate



Also, don't be like me. Didn't feel like cutting the bottoms each time for a coat of primer and 3 coats of paint, so I put down the same 3M tape. It was at that point I missed a crucial step in taking an ever so thin bead of clear caulking to seal the tape to the floor/baseboard so it wouldn't bleed.





This has been brought to you by your village idiot

 

still far better than most.

that's what they make markers for!

$16 Lifreer Revolutionary Furniture Touch Up Markers, 12 Colors Wood Scratch Repair Markers Kit - Perfect for Stains, Scratches, Wood Floors, Tables, and Bedposts - Easy to Use and Long-Lasting Results!

https://www.amazon.com/Lifreer-Revolutionary-Furniture-Markers-Scratch/dp/B0BP2R6MCG

my preference is to just pull the doors. far easier and less masking.

the floor/trim is not a huge deal. i've seen many houses are far worse with pro painters...

 

I'm just gonna sand down and re-shellac the door. I should have known the old finish was frail.

The base is getting quarter round due to floor damage from someone in the 70's removing the old trim, so it'll hide most of it.

 

That got me thinking and I stumbled on this. Definitely curious how it looks. Could be nice in a utility room perhaps.

 

pretty cheap too cool though be nice in the right setting

 

i've done a ton of undercabinet led tape light.

notice that one cuts/installs the trim first, and then installs the led tape light.

under a cabinet, with a near perfectly smooth finish, and enough access for my body to get under there, it's difficult. i can't imagine the creative contortionists nightmare that would be needed to install that tape light on the ground, with limited finger access to get the adhesive to stick. and then to get it around corners, the tape doesn't bed easily, or stay easily, which adds even more complexity.

also, check aliexpress and ebay. i'm pretty sure all of that stuff is available for less without the middle man of etsy...

i've come across it in the past on aliexpress. i'd like to use it as a night light in my main hallway. the main issue is getting the trim to transition back to standard trim that it meets up to.

 

I don't tape anything anymore. Cut in and keep a putty knife with dry rag wrapped around the blade nearby to quickly and cleanly wipe off any "oops".