CV Axle Replacement Options

Problem:
I have a torn boot on passenger side inner CV axle, which I believe is the original OEM axle. The dealership quoted me $980 to replace the ailing axle.

Context:
4x4 V6 DCSB with 207k miles. I have about 2 inches of suspension lift in the front and JBA UCA's. I've also completed the ECGS bushing install about 3 years and 40k miles ago.

Potential Solutions:
There are a lot of ways this can be resolved, but I'm curious what people think about replacing both CV axles at the same time (good idea or not?) and/or if consideration should be given to using boots made for lifted trucks such as the ones sold through Dobinson's or the rebuilt CVs from CVJ.

Rebuilt CV Axles: https://www.cvjreman.com/product-tag/9808/
High Clearance Boots: https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-high-clearance-inner-cv-boot-kit-for-toyota-lexus/

In my current situation, I don't have the luxury of spending the time to rebuild or install anything myself. I need a quick turnaround, and don't have the time, space, or tools to do it myself at the moment.

Should I replace both CV axles at the same time or just fix the one with the torn boot?
Should I use a standard OEM axle + boots?
Should I use the lift-specific options from a place like CVJ?

OEM Axles = $310 each, $620 total
OEM Axles + Dobinson's boots = $370 each, $740 total
Rebuilt CVJ = $328 each, $656 total (plus $350 core deposit and shipping original OE axles)

Conclusion:
My inclination is to replace both with standard OEM parts, because I don't wanna deal with core charges and shipping if using a CVJ axle. The biggest question is whether or not I should use the OEM boots or the ones made for lifted trucks?

All helpful comments are welcomed

 

Buy low mileage OEM off ebay for ~$120 ea.
Drive to DFW for ~3 hours.
We can swap them in my driveway.
Drive home to OKC for ~3 hours.


You can also use mineral spirits or similar to clean the grease off the torn boot and super glue it shut. Won't hold forever but it'll buy you a little time (depending on the size of the tear).

 

You can also just pull the CV with a torn boot and replace the boot with a new OEM. Then do the boot slide mod for the inner and you're good to go with no more tears.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/boot-slide-mod-no-more-blowing-cv-boots.146070/

 

At 207K miles, I'd replace both. I'd go with CVJ high clearance personally. Basically the same price OEM+Dobinsons without paying for the labor to put the boots on the OE axles (after shipping).

Also a good time to check your axle seal and top off diff fluids.

 

That's a hell of an offer. I'll definitely consider it! Would save some money in shop labor, for sure. I just searched ebay, and found a few options. Would probably rather just get brand new OEM ones for an extra $300.

 

Yeah, but it requires $350 in core deposits, then sending the original axles to them, which will be a pain.

 

Just re-box them in the same boxes they send you and drop at Fedex/UPS. Might be ~$100 in shipping.

If you're going quickest and reliable, OEM at the dealership is probably what fits you.

 

Very fair point. And I like the idea of doing both simultaneously given the mileage and having to do the diff anyway.

I think at this juncture, I'm primarily curious if the high clearance options are beneficial enough to pay the extra for them?

 

At this point you've got over 200k on the originals, go with the K.I.S.S. principle, you didn't need the high clearance in the past, why do you need it now.
I personaly would go with the CVJ reman's which are O.E. axles, the return is actually simple and you would get another 200k out of them.

 

Another vote for CVJ
It's a really simple process to just tape up the box they send you with your old axle in it, then go to UPS and have them stick a label on it. I've done it twice now.
Also, take @Naveronski 's offer. You'll learn something new and gain some confidence. These axles aren't too bad to do. Just intimidating.

 

I tried removing them once before when I installed my front suspension and tried to do the ECGS bushing. My brother and I tried for about 2 hrs to get the driver's side out, and were bloody and beat up afterwards, and the thing wouldn't budge. We tried slide hammers, screwdrivers, crowbar....all of it. Tried rotating and prying. Nothing. Eventually had to take it to a shop, and they said, "Yeah, came right out with light prying with a screwdriver. Took about 15 mins." I was PISSED. No clue what we were doing wrong, haha.

I'm not in a position to really spend an entire day to mess with it, so I'm probably gonna have to drop it at a local shop during a workday, and pick it up at the end of the day. Just too many things slammed on my calendar currently, including the weekends. I normally prefer to do the work on the truck myself, and driving down to DFW to learn some mechanic stuff sounds awesome. I just don't have the time right now.

I went ahead and ordered OE axles for both sides and also the high angle Dobinson's inner boots. It's on the more expensive side, but the goal is to make it another 200k miles.

 

Curious if you put new Oem axles in with a lift.
Shouldn’t you do a boot stretch on them as well.

 

My plan (for now) is new OEM axles and Dobinson's inner boots for lifts since the inner appears to be the problematic ones.

 

You're not going to beat OEM boots for longevity. If you're already getting new OEM axles just do the boot slide mod I linked above and skip the Dobinson inner boots.

All you need to do is remove the little clip on the inner boot, slide it down about an inch until the fins no longer touch, then put on a new clip or other fastener.

 

I wasn't sure which was "better", so I ordered the boots. It'll save some time and money if I don't need them. The boot slide mod does look pretty simple from what I've read.

 

It's really easy even when the CVs are still on the truck. I did mine a couple years ago and it took me about 10 minutes per side.

 

You mean just undoing clamp and stretching existing boots on truck than reclamping?

 

This is what I understand of the mod. There's a lot of different ways people clamp it or seal it, but that's the basic idea.

 

If so what clamp is going to hold.Theres so many opinions.I would rather use an Oem clamp and whatever plier it takes than use a hose clamp.
That way at least I’ll have the correct pliers for the next time.

 

I used a hose clamp since I didn't have the correct pliers. Mine hasn't moved at all over the last couple years and 10k+ miles.