F'N Wix

It appears OP is warming up to the possibility that this was his fuck up versus "F'N Wix".

 

I've said it before I can't say for sure.

But it was in the correct groove when I removed the filter. I don't see how it physically can move from the threaded area to the o ring groove on its own.
Unless I was 3/4 sleeping when I was changing oil I don't see how I could mess that up but it is what it is. At least it was caught before I had to buy a new motor.

 

Stick with Toyota OEM filters, heck you can get them at Wal Mart. They are as good as any out there. As far as the oil, pick your poison but I’ll always use OEM filters.

 

the dealer even screwed up my oil change with this O ring (on my 2nd of the first 2 free changes) Its a terrible design but ive so far in 60k miles havent had an issue

 

Not sure why no one is buying this could've been a material or manufacturing defect in the o-ring. If it was in the wrong groove or damaged, it wouldn't have taken 1k mi to show up. Glad you saw it in time OP.

 

Life was so much easier with oil changes when filters looked like this -

Even Frams didn't have the problems with these silly cartridges.

 

This thread has gone on for a bit and no one has written a spec / description of what this O-ring is? Smaller sizes are virtually never made with O-ring stock and glue - they are molded in one piece.

Needs for reverse engineering:
(1) Cross Section in MM
(2) Inside Diameter in MM (ring or groove)
(3) Material Type
(4) Hardness

At the business where I work we make it a policy to identify the O-rings (and keep a record) so we can reassemble things with all new seals for a reasonable price. Workmen lose them, cut them at assembly, all sorts of mishaps occur and extras have to be acquired. My first "go-to" when checking them out is to accumulate the info - then look it up in the CAT "One Safe Source" catalog. Typically they list 6 or 7 different material variations to choose from. The ID is often checked on the part they fit by measuring the groove. In machinery apps they are typically sized 5% under to make them "grip" the mating surface - maybe not on this filter surface. Synthetic rubber is usually black "Buna-N" material and is good for 275ºF and has several hardness (durometer) grades - CAT ordinarily lists 75 and 90 (harder rubber). If the temp gets above that rating they will go to Silicone or Teflon (400ºF). The nice thing about finding the CAT part number is - that their competition suppliers will often cross reference them and the price is better. Also, when working in a foreign country they (CAT) can get O-rings and threaded hardware when nothing else will do. In the US I use "Hercules" seals and O-rings with good success.

 

This was my original thought because if I did indeed cut it wouldn't it of happened right away?

Either way hopefully its a first and last time ever.

 

Not if it was partially cut, and failed under pressure. Hard to tell, what actually happened. Glad you caught it prior to a catastrophic failure. Ski

 

Did you resue the o-ring with the new filter?

 

Not sure if joking or not but no.

I never re-use any o-ring not just for oil filters.

 

Not joking, just reading into

 

I know. I'm thinking about converting to spin on.




I've done the OEM over a dozen times with no problems but the spin on is quick and foolproof.
For me the OEM is too much of a pain in the ass. I worry about making a mistake so I go slow. It turns a simple oil change into a project.
This may not be the case for everyone, your results might be different.