Realistic gas mileage?

There's some good input here, I appreciate it. Thinking more about the head wind. It wouldn't surprise me if it was 20 mph or better, so at 55 mph, it would be the equivalent of driving 75 mph with no head wind. I've found with my old yota that driving over 55-60 really starts to negatively affect gas mileage.
I just checked my tires on the Taco, they are Goodyear Duratrac M&S, they are somewhat aggressive. As far as oversize, if I understand and remember correctly, 265 is the diameter, which is stock. 70 is the aspect ratio, which means they are wider than stock. I wouldn't think the width would affect mileage so much as the diameter.
In case anyone is interested, so far I'm impressed with these tires on snow and ice.

Interesting idea on converting the fog lights into driving lights. I will look into that more, but right now I'm thinking I would rather not lose the fog lights. I would also have to do some re-wiring as the fog lights only work when the headlights are on low beam. Most people in Alaska (including me) wire their moose lights (driving lights) so they turn on and off with the high beams, and a manual switch to not have them come on at all.
There is a link to a video under specs (what do these terms mean?) where the guy talks about lumens, lux, and candelas. I've been comparing lux on the driving lights I've been looking at and thinking they must not be measuring the same way. I'm hoping the information in video will be helpful.

I'm fairly certain there's not much ethanol in gas around Fairbanks, maybe more down Anchorage way, but I don't think so.

 

I'm certain this was a typo as you seem to know what you are saying, but 265 is roughly the width of the tire in mm- not the diameter. It is reasonable size and not much larger than stock, but that tire specifically is heavy. Skinny tall tires may yield better snow performance and modestly improved economy thanks to being a few lbs lighter.

 

Another Dude, my memory failed me.................again. I had it backwards. Thanks for correcting me.

 

I generally get 16-17 in mixed driving if I drive it 'gently'. The best I can do is around 19 when driving 55-65.
I have the V6, 6 speed manual and when I'm rolling down the interstate at around 78mph, my engine is spinning 2,800 rpms. I do wish the gear ratios were a little more spread out in the manual transmissions.
I don't know if it would help, but I have made it a point to use 75-90 weight lube (rather than the higher viscosity grades) in my diffs. Since I rarely tow, I don't think there's any reason to be churning butter in my diffs, while driving. In my opinion, every little bit helps.

 

Good point. Perhaps I'll change the gear lube this summer, and make sure it's

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90. At 97K miles, it's probably due anyway.

 

It'll be interesting when it warms up to see what the warmer weather fuel is like, I bet you see 1-2 more. I'm in MA and that's about the fluctuation I see.

I have an Ultragauge and I use it to track my MPG, I used to just do it by the tankful but by using it to not drive like a leadfoot it helped a bit..enough that I saw the roughly $60 pay for itself in short order, plus I have the other functions of it.

Re the foggies, you could do the "fog light anytime" mod. I leave mine on with the ignition and my running lights (not DRLs).

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cheap-free-mods.4838/#post-45430

Another option is adding another light as you said, maybe a light bar or something. That can also be run off a separate switch for use not just with the highs.

 

I think a light bar that comes on with the high beams is the way to go for me.
I looked at the mod list and found a few things that interested me. One is modding the defroster circuit so the a/c doesn't come on with it. I run the defroster all the time in the winter. I knew about a/c coming on with the defrosters on vehicles these days, but I hadn't thought about it.

 

Lumens: a measure of the perceived power of visible light emitted by a source
Lux:a unit of illumination equal to 1 lumen per square meter; 0.0929 foot candle
Candela: the luminous intensity in a given direction of a source

So Lumen is how far light is thrown outward, a Lux is a unit of measure of Lumens, and Candela is how intense or bright it is outwards in my best ability to explain. Lumens is how far light can be thrown, the higher the number the farther it can be thrown, and Candela is how bright that light would be, if I am remembering my class on lighting from the USAF from years ago...

edit: these guys have integral light bars for under the grill, and other lighting options as well: https://caliraisedled.com/collectio...134GhTZDjN2DJdHvlqjdq29xPjjjmwUoV3tRbEiwFUunO

 

True. At 74/5 or higher, I can watch the fuel gauge drop and get about 16 mpg. 72 and under, I can easily hit 18 - 20...

 

Their stuff looks nice, but they don't give much for specs, and they're claiming a lot more lumens from their bar than a similar bar from Rigid. Their prices are way lower than Rigid, and their warranty is substantially less.
Right now I'm leaning toward a 10" Rigid bar, and making my own mount on the front. I can make it easily removable in case I want to take it off to prevent theft or damage.

 

Black Oak Led are a little bit cheaper than rigid/baja and also have a lifetime warranty
https://www.blackoakled.com/

 

It'd be just as easy to use a separate switch as I see it, but definitely up to you.

I left my AC alone. Still blows cold at 15 yrs old.

 

Keeping the highway speeds under 70 MPH I get 21 MPG with AC on and running 245/75 16 Michelin Defenders.
With AC off I get 21.5 MPG.
Truck is stock

 

Solid numbers regardless of stock or not.

 

Pretty easy to do, I did mine but I de-pinned the wire and used a small piece of wire to jump it to the 12v wire and secured it with a small zip tie so it's easily returned to stock.
Did the same thing with the temp actuator so the A/C isn't forced on when the temp knob is on full cold.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-c-on-with-defrost.7160/page-8#post-2395617

 

I've calculated my truck to run 11.8MPG or 248 miles to a tank. This is very bad. 2007 Taco V6 4x4 Double Cab with 2 inch lift and Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac
285/75/R16. is this simply because my lift and tire size that it is this bad or does this indicate an actual issue with my vehicle. Help please.

 

winter gas is not your friend im often a 300miles to the tank on 285/70 17 AT's an ARB bumper and winch... with winter gas im like a 230-250 miles to a tank.

 

420 miles per tank when no ac on

AC on makes it to 350 or so, i like it so cold, my windows fog on the outside most mornings

 

pretty sure those are street tires!


i dont get my 2015 trd offroad over 2,000 rpm, stock height, falken wildpeak 265/70/16
and with winter gas getting around 280 miles per tank

these truck some of the worst mpg out there no doubt!! but still worth it i think

 

That's essentially a 33" tire that weighs 285 pounds. Just kidding, the 285 is tread width in mm. I know, everyone knows that, but that's a pretty heavy tire. I looked it up but didn't see a weight.
If you're not showing any codes, you can pull a spark plug and see how it looks. If it has good color, chances are yes, it's the tires and lift that are significantly contributing to your mpgs.
I'd like to see a one tank test on diff oil weights and their effect on gas mileage.