Off-Grid Engineering Dual Battery System Q&A

Good morning, I have an OGE dual battery system installed in my tacoma. I am now in a position to install the redarc switch to use the aux battery to start the truck if primary is dead. Can you give me the PN of the switch? Also do you have any of the trays that you have left over that has the mounting pad welded to it for the switch?

 

I don't have any of the trays with the jump start mount anymore, I haven't had any in stock for a while. However if you were adding a jump start function to the system the switch you will use is the Redarc SBI12. You will need 4 or 2 ga wire between the two battery's to hold the current of starting the truck. and wiring a momentary switch into the dash of the vehicle to activate the switch when needed.
https://www.redarcelectronics.com/u...kzqvVZKL3F2b6ldnsNDH_Gz0AnGHNo4xoC4hkQAvD_BwE

 

Hi Wyatt. I've had your dual setup with the ML-ACR in my 2014 since for 5 years. Thanks for the solid product! I'm replacing the batteries so an opportunity to do a bit of housekeeping.

One issue is that terminals on the ML-ACR are so exposed. Do you know of any kind of cover for them? Can they be cut shorter? Understood that its not your product but thought someone might have asked you about it before. I've been google'ing wihtout much success so I thought I would check if you have any info.

Thanks for any info you might have and good luck with the new focus.

 

Im 99% sure mine came with rubber boots to cover the studs as part of the package from BlueSea. Did yours not come with those? You may be able to order them separately as replacement parts?

Edit: random internet picture of boots:

 

Our Kit should have come with Rubber Boots to cover the studs (Not the ML-ACR), we also used a Second 3/8 Nut and Sandwiched the Terminal between the two nuts to space it out further, thus allowing for the boots, that we shown above to fit more flat on the ACR Terminal. The Boots are Alternator style boots, like this: https://www.waytekwire.com/product/...sWIMFs0hKGljYZ-9Uew-E5GT1pgoCp1QaAi2aEALw_wcB

I hope this helps!
Thanks!
Wyatt

 

Hello, I have the side by side dual battery setup and find myself wanting to add solar. I am trying to figure the best COA either to swap the ML-ACR with a Redarc or just add a MPPT, which ever will ensure system functionality. Any advice or recommendation are appreciated.

My second battery currently runs my AluCab accessories / fridge etc which I run full time and live out of.

 

Send a note to redarc customer service. They have been extremely helpful in my journey.

https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/contact-us

 

You can do either, it depends on which benefits of the system you most enjoy. The ACR is robust and you can jumpstart the truck or link the batteries for heavy winching, while the redarc is a better battery charger for high draw usage on the auxiliary battery like a camper power system. The Redarc with the built in Mppt will only charge the Aux battery regardless of how its set up whereas the ACR being voltage sensing, can be used to charge both batteries off solar. Once it sees that charging voltage it will link and charge both starting and Aux battery. This can be an issue if you then have a DC-DC charger downstream for the third battery in the camper, but that's a rare situation and there is still ways to get around it and keep the ACR.
Both the Redarc and ACR are great units just with the different being fits for different use cases, and both can take advantage of Solar in different ways. Which is why I have a ACR in my Tacoma for Winching and wheeling, and my Ranger and F250 have Redarcs for Camper battery charging.

 

Wyatt, thanks so much for that response that was great and a ton of information. I love the ability to link the battery’s and like the switch in the cab, my biggest needs are camper power as I live in the Alu-Cab on my Tacoma.

I do like the ability of the ACR to charge both battery’s from solar. For this ability would adding on something like a Victron MPPT support. I’m also trying to go for the most cost effective solution.

 

Yup, A Victon 100/20 or 100/30 Mppt Smart will be a good option for you. you can hook it up to either the Aux battery or Starting battery, as the ACR works in voltage sensing both ways. The Smart unit will also allow to keep an eye on what the solar is doing and is a nice little upgrade to monitor things. Just remember to fuse the solar panel on the roof at its output source and the Mppt going into the battery, that the safest way as you have power coming in on both ends of your Mppt controller.

 

Hey all! New to this thread but have been following for awhile.
I’m a little overwhelmed in how to do this 2 battery setup.
I currently run everything off my one battery…Winch - directly to battery
Compressor - directly to battery
- I then have a rough country 8 switch panel that runs my 3 accessory lights (light bar, ditch and side lights)

Since installing the compressor I’ve been having a grounding issue (I think) - the internal electrical will flicker off and on if I go over say railroad tracks but it’s fine when 4x4ing. If I take the inline fuse out for the compressor the problem seems to stop. But it’s def not giving me warm a fuzzy feelings so started to look into a second battery as a way to remove everything off my main battery as I don’t want to mess with that.

so with all that said…and all the research I’ve done - feeling overwhelmed with how to go about this. This thread in particular and the pic from the start of thread seems like the most logical- so help lol.
Guide me wise ones…where do I begin?

 

Welcome to TW
There plenty here to get confused with. This thread had been relatively slow but there are others with the info you’re lookin’ for. It’s always changing with new battery & solar panel tech. Good luck with the project.

 

OGE doesn’t sell there duel battery setups anymore. Correct? How much would a used one be worth? It’s in good condition.

 

Split setup or the duals behind the driver headlight? They shut down the latter years ago. And I get why. Really no good way to make that kind of weight stable on the sheet metal. I have a dual one too for the driver side that ripped the rivnuts straight out. I think the bracket is worth $50-100 bucks. It's nicely machined aluminum bracket that'll hold two batteries and the ML-ACR on top. I just don't think it works in the factory location due to the shit toyota sheet metal and the weight of the batteries.