RMP's drop when shift from park to drive/reverse

Sounds normal to me.
Have you tried just resetting the ECU and let it 'relearn'?.





Are you sure it never idled that low?
I'm wondering if it always did and you're only noticing it now because of the vibration.
Is your truck lifted?
Bushings and mounts help dampen vibes.
I recently experienced some grumbling at crawling speed, no brake on.
Took out the differential drop kit and it went away. The drop kit is metal on metal. No bushing to dampen vibes.

The radiator mount is a common cause of vibes.

 

Thanks for the reply. I deleted my AC and installed new oem belt that comes on the base models that dont have AC's. belt squeek only happens right when the RPMs drop to around 550rpm. belt is silent when is put under load and cruising. I do see that a lot of people have this low rpm issue, but they all fail to mention it only happens when the brakes are depressed at idle. perhaps they do not realize it because you wouldnt really notice unless your handbrake was on while in D or R. I'm just fustrated that i cant make sense of how depressing the brakes would drop the rpm only at idle, even if it is normal i would like to know why haha. my only other guess is maybe torque comverter related? I'm going to replace idler pulley and tensoiner bearing because well why not at this point...

 

my tach is just slightly below where yours is but still above 500. thats where it used to be like yours and that little +50rpm im missing makes a big difference in vibration when in the range below 800-700. its enough where i have gotten two comments from passengers about the shake. as someone else said the 2trfe is a smooth idling engine. truck is lifted 1 inch, no diff/driveshaft drop, aftermarket control arms but this was a problem before all that. I might go test drive a 2.7 at a dealership to make sure im not crazy haha.

 

Generally vacuum leaks tend to make it idle higher.

 

This is normal behavior....I think it's part of both trying to minimize emissions and making the most out of gas mileage. When in drive, my 2022 cycles back and forth from a "normal" idle to a "lower" idle when stopped (like at a red light), and it does this like clockwork, which means its an ECU function. Just be glad its not a start/stop system.

 

update: after throwing the parts cannon, nothing has solved the issue. seems like other people have the same issue, but ignore it all together. lots of people saying 550rpm idle in drive/reverse is normal, but i just dont believe it. should be at 750-650rpm in drive/reverse. I will keep trying to remedy as some of these next parts should be replaced anyway at my milage. next on the list is engine mounts, idle pulley and tensioner,

 

Before putting the engine mounts on, try gently jacking up the engine with a block of wood while it's running? Maybe see if the vibes change as you suspend the motor?

Toyotas are notorious for idling super low, bad mounts could make it more noticeable

 

I have the same issue been to 2 mechanics and last thing they told me was that dealer needs to reprogram the ECM.

 

Mileage on truck and plugs? When the truck is idling, is the tachometer needle steady or does it bounce a teeny bit?

 

That's their way of saying, "We don't know what's wrong with it. We don't want to work on it".

The idle dropping lower in when in gear is normal.

What are you in gear RPM and in park RPM?

 

125k miles just replace spark plugs with NGK iridium $20 bucks each, when in park needles is steady only when in Drive and reverse rpms drops

 

Report from the mechanic…

 

Your profile says you have a 2.7.
That TSB in the picture is for the 2GR / 3.5 engine.

 

I've been going through this same ordeal. I purchased my 2020 SR 4x4 new from a dealer and didn't have the really annoying vibrations issue until 20-25k. I'm at 35 now. Dealer says it's normal, but it's driving me nuts.
I thought it was my lift or maybe my lower control arm bushings because they did not look good after 4 years here in the Northeast.. even with regular powerwashing. Replaced LCAs and still have the same issue. I'm learning to live with it. Something else I did around the same time I started noticing was I cleaned the MAF sensor. I am beginning to think I might have messed it up in the process. I plan on running some tests here soon to see if I'm on to something. I refuse to throw parts at this thing endlessly, so I'm trying the live data route.

I'm also having other stupid strange issues with this 2.7 as well but that's another topic

 

I too have a 2.7L 3rd gen auto trans.
After about 75k miles I noticed the idle started to creep down to 500 while in D and not moving, with the brake pedal pressed down. Goes back up to 550-600ish rpm in N & P.

I thought it was related to the braking system too. So I had my local Toyota dealership service dept look at it and they swear it's normal for these engines....maybe it just took me 75k miles to start noticing it?

The idle will drop to 500rpm and it results in very minor vibrations. My passenger doesn't seem to feel it, but I feel it in the seat and pedals ever so slightly.

It doesn't shake enough to make anything rattle but it's definitely noticeable. Oil changes at 5k miles since I had the truck and zero leaks or other problems otherwise.

 

mine is steady as as rock

 

What all did you try? I am starting to believe there is no real fix for it beyond maybe a tune to modify the idle rpm? I don't know anything about tunes tho... lol

 

Clean the maf and make sure all the intake pipes are tight seems to be working, so far.

 

if it was that simple this thread would not exist

 

I tried to plug in my legacy based OB2 reader and it wouldn't even recognize. What are you guys using now?