Interesting and Weird , please advise.

02 3.4 Pryor problems- hiccups while in cruise control, vibrations, Gas mpg, just running Bad.
Took my OEM Denso IAC valve off replaced w/middle price 130.00 Standard motors. Truck runs Better than ever. Seriously, no hiccups, it sounds awesome, throttle response is AMAZING
It still won’t kick back ever to right idle. Stays at 1500-2000 rpm?

 

Ecu will need time

 

Really, I could see the high idle come down with more running time?
I mean it’s running so strong the dang idle won’t come down after 10 miles at 65 mph and idling HIGH at 1800 rpm’s? Thank you for your time and thoughts.

 

I believe those still have a throttle cable. Make sure it hasn't gained slack/stretched over time.
similar to...

Check for vacuum leaks, all hoses are connected.
Clean throttle body and MAF sensor.

 

Thank you

 

Thank you for your advice

 

Thank you for your time and advice

 

I’m Thank you

 

I actually had an issue similar to this. Different motor (3RZ) but I replaced my stock IACV with a standard motor products one from rockauto and the idle never came down on it. 1200RPM hot with no accessories on, spec is around 700RPM. Drove it for a week, disconnected battery to reset, everything. Returned it and got a replacement one, same issue for another 2 or so weeks. Each time when I returned the New IACV I put the old factory one back in and the idle returned to normal within 10-15 mins. I would however try what others above suggested, cleaning and checking everything first.

 

If the original was keeping correct why did you replace it?

 

Was trying to track down a mysterious rough idle on cold starts, thought the IACV was the culprit. Still haven’t solved it to be honest.

 

Hmm, I can relate. This is the most mature and real group I know of. Thank you for your decency. I will relay if I find a answer.

 

Thank you

 

How much time, Brother? How many miles would you suggest before I order another OEM?

 

Something I have heard a lot of people say is to go grab the part in question off a junkyard truck for testing (sensor, valve, iacv, etc.) for pretty cheap. You can throw that used part in and if the issue is resolved, the part in question was probably bad. And you can also get away with using that used part in the long term most of the time, at a much lower cost than new OEM. But first I would do what everyone else said to knock out any variables. Clean and check everything else, and if no dice, try a used IACV. This method has worked well for many EVAP codes on my truck.

 

Thanks, I’m kind of a hard head, but I’ll tell you what OEM is hard to beat.

 

I would be looking at every vacuum line with a fine tooth comb. Actually, I'd just replace them all. Pay special attention to the brake booster. It can fail internally and cause a vacuum leak you cant easily spot.

 

Thanks.