Fuel Pump Nightmare ongoing

Very nice. You ever do any work on the side? I’m kinda NEWB mechanically speaking. And would like to meet some qualified people in my area who do freelance jobs.

 

Unfortunately with a new baby and a 4 year old I barely have time to work on my own truck lol

but I’m on here all the time if you ever need any advice

 

Congrats on the little one! Totally understandable. And thanks again.

 

So did locating & replacing the burned resistor fix the problem?

Something left-field came to mind when reading the symptoms, probably off-base, but I wonder if the immobilizer ECU and/or sense ring etc. could be on the fritz. I was reading other threads about immobilizers & how in some situations when they are flaky (not broken,) the can lead to the engine randomly dying. I believe that's because when the immobilizer ECU is no longer sending an "I'm happy" signal to the main ECU, the main ECU responds by cutting off the fuel pump. (Other electrical not disturbed, i.e. engine can still crank.)

 

The Immobilizer can't kill the truck once it is running, it only can prevent the truck from starting if there's a problem with it.

 

Burnt connectors are the result of poor connections.

 

Well I got the truck back yesterday, new resistor, connector and leads to the resistor.
- put 20ish miles on it test driving. seems to be happy and healthy. At the moment I’m calling this resolved .

 

From what I’m seeing in your posts, it’s not a parts issue you have a grounding issue and it appears a connection issue. Check every ground location associated with the fuel pump system and then go thru every connector associated with the fuel system and check the pins from the pics they appear loose. I’d pull the pins, clean and repin them on both the male and female sides.

 

I am regretfully returning to my thread here. And again, thanks to everyone for their knowledge and contributions.
- - after replacing the fuel pump resistor, resistor leads and harness connector in January, it drove perfectly (only about 350 miles) until this last Monday, when it started doing the same flavor of malfunction that it has been doing throughout this repair saga.
- crank no start. Would not start, unless I keyed all the way off, and retried, a few times, then start right up and drive great. It’s also lost power and died 2x on the freeway accelerating in the last couple days. Same thing. Key off, crank, and it started up after like the 10th attempt.
- I’ve looked for sources of a possible short, drivers side kick panel connector, fuel pump resistor connector still looks mint. Have a brand new battery.
- barring further diagnosis, I’m presuming this is the same issue; an interruption of power to the fuel pump.
- could this be an ECM issue?

 

@Jdpsurf Have you checked voltage on the entire system during operation? When I see fried connector over-voltage spike comes to mind. Maybe something else keeps killing your resistor/pump?

You can get a cheap voltage meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter and watch while you drive if you're able to drive.

Since you already changed battery perhaps the alternator or some other part of electronics system is sending over-voltage and killing that resistor and possibly frying your fuel pump. I've seen bad alternators do all kinds of funny things with voltage and an old battery can shorten the life of an alternator. This could be good time to drop in a 130A from the towing package if you don't have one already. Changing the alternator is a pain in a$$ due to access but not difficult.

Do you have aftermarket stereo (w/amps) or aftermarket lights? Can you disconnect those and rule them out?

The other thing that comes to mind is devices with motors/pumps tend to blow up when made to work too hard and heat builds up from resistance. Could there be an issue with fuel line somewhere or the fuel regulator that is causing back pressure and then killing the pump leading to over heating the rest of that electrical system. Seems unlikely but couldn't hurt to try changing regulator or even injectors at this point. Not sure what the mileage is but injectors and regulator are right on top of engine to not too hard to change. Probably not worth a diagnostic charge if you can DIY. Also probably change all the plugs and PCV while you're in there.

You mentioned ECM, and although an ECM can send mixed signals and could be an issue I don't know that it would 'fry' things since it's just sending signals and reading them not pushing current itself. I'd expect to see a bunch of warning lights if the ECM is failing due to overall mass confusion rather than a repeating single point bug some signals go in/out of ECM on shared wires. Again it's something you can rule out by getting a second hand ECM. For tuning I have a backup ECM that is matched to mine in case I ever fry mine but I haven't had to test it out. You will need to get the secondary ECM matched to your VIN but I don't think it is a foreign procedure

 

Coming back to my post, 99.5% certain the issue has been resolved. Want to thank everyone again for engaging the thread, and want to report my findings.
- It didnt appear to have any issues with the alternator. There weren't any obstructions in the fuel system to create extra load on the Fuel Pump. I checked all the grounds I could locate, all looked pristine.
-After its last failure, again presenting with a "crank-no start" condition, I took it to toyota Carlsbad. $600 diagnostic, for another Fuel Pump Relay. Which was like the 3rd or 4th fuel pump relay.
-It began the same intermittent power loss a few weeks after. Usually under heavier loads, like freeway merging, it would have momentary losses of power. - Took back to toyota, they couldn't get it to manifest the issue while driving it, no codes, and told me to come get it after 4 days. They said come back when the issue could be replicated more easily.
- I then got a refurb ECM to test, however it still manifested the same issue. But with the refurb ECM I was able to read some codes that were thrown, which, up until this point the only code that had been thrown, was a fuel pump circuit code; P0230.
-The codes I got were P0020, P0102, P0010.
--I replaced the Oil Control Valves, and Cam Position Sensors on both banks.
- It runs so much better, way better MPG, and more power everywhere, bottom, mid, and top end. And in 80ish miles since the OCVs it hasn't had a hiccup a stutter, or any issue at all, no codes.

 

Disregard previous post. Still experiencing the intermittent power loss.

 

Any progress in the last couple of months?

I've had slowly worsening fuel delivery issues and finally lost all fuel pressure for a little bit. I'm hoping a new pump is all I need, but the more info about other people's issues the better!

 

The latest:
Still manifesting the same issue, I took it to Toyota again in late June I believe. They found a high fuel pressure condition, 70 something PSI. Healthy PSI is around 44, if I recall correctly. Likely overworking pump, burning connectors, relays. Etc.
- they did new pump, pigtail harness to pump, fuel pressure regulator, and some other fuel line connectors. $$$
- hasn’t had an issue since

 

Any updates on this? Experiencing the same with my 07 FJ Cruiser with a 2011 Tacoma engine on it. Mechanic seems to think it is the fuel control module on the ecm. So far I have replaced (fuel pump, injectors, fuel rail, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, TPS, MAF, throttle body) currently have it running piggy backing of the efi relay but that keeps my walbro fuel pump on full blast non stop.

 

FrankTheTank858, any advise, 2011 tacoma v6, I replaced fuel filler neck (was broken),and replaced vapor canister because truck was stalling on expressway when accelerating; the truck has no problem when turn on and when taking off. I do not want to spend any more money on the truck until I can know if its the gas fuel pump; it has 204,000 miles. Hope to hear from you. Thanks and God Bless

 

Yup. High ohms and high amps.