Need help with spacer lifts

Hey everyone I'm not sure if this has been covered but , i know i know that spacers are normally a big no no…But in my head i’m not going to be wheeling at all and i wanted a cheaper temporary fix for now. I need your guys opinions on doing 2/1 spacer lift or 3/2 spacer lift , what are the pros and cons of each ? And what to watch out for when doing either or ?

 

"A cheaper and temporary fix" for what?

 

Fix? Whats broken?

 

Welcome, Timmy.

This subject has been covered extensively, but as others have asked, what are you trying to fix?

 

Hey guys sorry for the miscommunication , there’s nothing really needing to be "fixed” i just meant i wanted to lift my truck up with leveling kit since it’s cheaper alternative. I know its normally not recommended.

 

Don't go more than 2/1.

 

Level is a looker thing. Which is fine if you never haul or tow.

Rake is engineered in for a reason.

 

Bilstein 5100’s with factory coils and a 1” block in the rear. Not terribly expensive and way better than spacers. You’ll be so much happier!

 

any thoughts, comments or opinion on wether i should do 2/1 or 3/2 ?

 

2 or 3" will result in the axle vibration, making it cost more money because it will need the ECGS installed.

Stick to 1-1.5" for a "cheap" lift. Spacers just didnt work well on 3rd gens.

Bilstien 5100s are cheap, don't need the bushing and ride waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better than stock.

 

If your set on a spacer lift don't go over 2" these trucks do not behave well over that.

 

If you want/have to go with spacers, two inch max up front, and a 2 inch block in rear. My advice is not to "level" the truck during the lift. if you go 2x1 and it is level, as soon as you put a feather in the bed, the rear will start squatting. Ski

 

3” is too much unless we are talking about a drop bracket lift. There isn’t enough range of motion in the IFS.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihErEq6SRrk

 

Its Friday and I'll take the bait. Don't do a spacer lift and here is why:

The spacer (assuming a 2" spacer) will go between the coilover top hat and the coilover bucket. When you install this, it will move the coilover down 1" and push the lower control arm down 1" where the bottom of the coilover connects to the LCA. This will push the lower ball joint down 2" and thus, the spindle will be 2" lower and/or the truck will be 2" taller. The part that starts to get dicey is that the bump stop is now no longer used and the coilover becomes the upward limiting part of the front suspension. This will cause the coilover to self destruct over time. Inversely, when the suspension is fully extended, the control arms are forced to droop lower than engineered and the front half-shafts (assuming you are 4WD) will be put in a bind and will also self destruct.

So the people suggesting the Bilstein 5100 are actually trying to help you save money. You can use your factory springs on the 5100's and choose how much lift you want to achieve all while using your factory bump stops and you wont alter the factory travel of the suspension so the CV's wont wear out any faster.

If you are 2WD, then you can use a spacer and put a spacer on your bump stop and be fine.

 

Bingo!!! Timmy, your butt will love you for it...