Crank no start.

Good afternoon. I think I messed up badly.
After the new year I tried to Move my 1997 Tacoma. Dead Battery. Put the battery charger on for an hour. Would not charge. I hooked up my generator welder to it at 15v with some sparks at the terminals. Thinking it wasn't a big deal. However, when I went to crank it over, nothing happened. I bumped the wipers when i went to check my connections at the battery, and they were moving at Mach 5. So I instantly shut off, and disconnected the weld leads. This was the time I knew I messed up. Yesterday, I purchased a new battery and the motor cranked, but no start. Pretty happy about that, I set out today to trouble shoot my issues. I started with the fuses. 15A EFI blown. Swap it and instantly blows without ignition on. Come to read the threads on TW saying the AM1 could be blown. The AM1 AM2 and ALT are OK. I check the relay. Also OK. Swap with the tail light relay. Still crank, no start. On another note, the dash is not on. The 7.5 Radio, 7.5a IGN and 15A Cig fuses also blown. They will blow as soon as the ignition is turned to on. Reading other threads today have lead me to check the fuses that are associated with my problems but then veer off in a different direction that has led me to posting this. Previously the truck has had no electrical problems, and would start every time. Its been sitting due to a slave cylinder that has gone bad. I'm probably missing a key phrase that is making it difficult to search the threads. So any help or threads that will lead me in a better direction, much appreciated.

 

Without a wiring diagram you are wasting time, here is a link to free information. It isnt the easiest to navigate but the info is accurate. You will have to back click to get to your particular truck and year.

https://charm.li/Toyota/2000/Tacoma PreRunner Extra Cab 2WD V6-3.4L (5VZ-FE)/Repair and Diagnosis/

 

Do you have a good multimeter? On the fuses that have blown with the ignition being turned on, you are going to need to connect a multimeter (direct current) to each side of the fuse terminals (without the fuse installed) and start disconnecting stuff until the voltage drops. You could also do resistance. I would disconnect the alternator first.

 

Apologies for the delayed response. I have several multimeters (not the smartest with them). I will do what you have said CD20H and Come Back with more info. My coworker is pretty good with wiring, he said there is a potential that i have melted the wires together. Who knows where. He also sent me a link of a pretty powerful tool for this occasion.

Power Probe Master Kit with Power Probe 3, ECT3000 Short Tracer, Amp Adapter Tip, and Pulse Width Adapter Tip

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CXGD6141/?coliid=I24P58ZC6CO83E&colid=14LCMQ47J2RW6 Is this worth purchasing?